Going to pull my front springs/shocks this morning and cycle the suspension to measure for new shocks. Do I leave my Sway Loc connected in the off road position or disconnect it completely?
Cycling front suspension (to disconnect or not to disconnect)
- Thread starter SkylinesSuck
- Start date
Disconnect it. You want no limiting factors to start with. That way you'll have a true baseline. Then, as you make changes, you can assess their impact.
After you get the baseline, connect the Swaylock and see what happens.
Jeeps are great! Disco sucks! Is there supposed to be some kind of connection there?
Nevermind, once I recalled my Jeep getting ducked I figured it out.
Nevermind, once I recalled my Jeep getting ducked I figured it out.
That was a bad time in music. Even worse than the Urban Cowboy time.
So interesting thing; I got more stuff with the SwayLoc connected than disconnected. Why? Because the tire was getting in to the "switch" on the SwayLoc at full stuff and steering turned to lock with it disconnected. When I connected it, it pushed itself up out of the way more. It's still the first point of contact on the pax side, but only barely and I only lose like 1/4" of travel vs the tire into the fender flare anyways, so I'm content there.
Driver's side limfac was the RockJock track bar (reinforcement) vs the diff cover. I made a yuge mess with my dye grinder clearancing the diff cover. Fun facts--aluminum shavings are both sharp AND impossible to clean up with a magnet
After clearancing I still contact there with about another inch to go until the tire tickles the fender flare. Short of trimming the reinforcement surrounding the track bar mount (which I don't plan on doing as I'm sure it's there for a reason) I think that's the best it's gonna be.
So I'm looking at slightly more then 2" bump stop extensions which seems like a lot to me? Compressed shock length of 16". On extended length, I have to shove the tire down and there's still more flex to be had. Is that normal? I will determine ride height when I put the springs back in which I think will also shove extended length down to where it wants to be. Am I missing anything? Is it okay to use big washers to fine tune the bump stops?
BTW--that bit is way mo betta for eating aluminum than HF grinder bits, but boy what a mess.
Driver's side limfac was the RockJock track bar (reinforcement) vs the diff cover. I made a yuge mess with my dye grinder clearancing the diff cover. Fun facts--aluminum shavings are both sharp AND impossible to clean up with a magnet
After clearancing I still contact there with about another inch to go until the tire tickles the fender flare. Short of trimming the reinforcement surrounding the track bar mount (which I don't plan on doing as I'm sure it's there for a reason) I think that's the best it's gonna be.So I'm looking at slightly more then 2" bump stop extensions which seems like a lot to me? Compressed shock length of 16". On extended length, I have to shove the tire down and there's still more flex to be had. Is that normal? I will determine ride height when I put the springs back in which I think will also shove extended length down to where it wants to be. Am I missing anything? Is it okay to use big washers to fine tune the bump stops?
BTW--that bit is way mo betta for eating aluminum than HF grinder bits, but boy what a mess.
Two inches of bump stop doesn't necessarily sound excessive to me (although I'm pretty new at this). On mine, the compressed shocks only needed about 1/2" of bump stop. And the 31" tires on stock rims, both fully tucked, were slightly inside the fender flares, but turned lock to lock without touching. But with one tire up and the other end of the axle fully extended, the tire chewed the flare badly on turns. A 1.5" bump stop extension fixed that. And tilted like that, the tire rubs badly on the spring tower when turned, which wanted 3" of bump to fix. I compromised on 2" with some rub on the spring tower. The tower is rounded and smooth, and I'll be crawling when fully flexed and turning sharp, so it shouldn't rip up the tires. Rims with different backspacing might fix the spring tower problem, but might increase the fender flare problem.
2" of bump extension up front might be typical. Mine is closer to 1.5" or whatever the lowest amount Currie bumps have without spacers.
Last edited:
Due to the torsion bar, this is exactly what you'd expect to see. One side goes down, one goes up. What you're now starting to learn is something most won't see, unless you take the time to do the work. When the knowledgeable folks here say "one thing impacts another", this is what they're talking about. Sometimes it's good, like in this case, sometimes it's not good.
Driver's side limfac was the RockJock track bar (reinforcement) vs the diff cover. I made a yuge mess with my dye grinder clearancing the diff cover. Fun facts--aluminum shavings are both sharp AND impossible to clean up with a magnet
View attachment 290840
The reinforce tab can absolutely be trimmed. I had to trim mine to get it to clear at full bump. Also, that large ribbed cover isn't doing you any favors. Although they not available now, the Alloy USA cover offers strength, clearance, and a reasonable price.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E7NO6S/?tag=wranglerorg-20
A 2" bumpstop isn't excessive, but my guess is that could be reduced. However, we'll need the ride height numbers to know what your actual travel will be.
Last edited:
Great info just in time! I was just about to reinstall the springs. Now I can clearance that bit without having to take it all back apart 
I also found through the hard work you talked about my SwayLoc was interfering on the pax side with it's bolts to the tie rod end. Flipped the direction the bolts were installed along with the sides of the mount/arm the links were installed and that fixed that PLUS moved the arm of the swayloc away from the tire just enough to not tickle anymore. Exactly as you said, do the hard work. It's worth it!
I also found through the hard work you talked about my SwayLoc was interfering on the pax side with it's bolts to the tie rod end. Flipped the direction the bolts were installed along with the sides of the mount/arm the links were installed and that fixed that PLUS moved the arm of the swayloc away from the tire just enough to not tickle anymore. Exactly as you said, do the hard work. It's worth it!
Cycling with an antisway bar connected will only limit flex and show very clearly that an antisway bar will work to keep the frame parallel to the axle.
So, turns out swapping those bolts around did let me steer more but....I had to add more bump stop on the pax side (3" now) and I can get the tire back in to the SwayLoc in a big way. So more backspacing needed? I already have 1.25" spacers with Moab rims. I know that'll probably cause more fender flare interference. I also need to add 1/4-1/2" of spacer up front to get it level the way I want, but that's minor. New BlackMax front shocks are on the way.
Also, it looks like the springs kinda rub the bump stop cups? Should I be adding bump stop extensions to the bottom somehow instead of top?
I have it all back together now but have determined it's all going to need to come apart again. My spring compressors suck for these long ass springs. So you guys have any you recommend?
Also, it looks like the springs kinda rub the bump stop cups? Should I be adding bump stop extensions to the bottom somehow instead of top?
I have it all back together now but have determined it's all going to need to come apart again. My spring compressors suck for these long ass springs. So you guys have any you recommend?
I hated my spring compressors. I found that if I kept disconnecting things, I eventually had inches of air between the springs and the perches. Disconnect shocks, sway bar, track bar, drag link, driveshaft, brake hose (just remove brackets so they can flex farther), diff vent hose. And the last one was the lower control arms at the axle, because the CAs hit the axle bracket at steep angles. That finally did the trick for mine. Check if your CAs are limiting it here:
Sorry, I just noticed that you have Currie/Savvy CAs, so that's probably not the problem. Maybe.
Sorry, I just noticed that you have Currie/Savvy CAs, so that's probably not the problem. Maybe.
Last edited:
Loosen any bolts that hold a rubber bushing. That allows them to rotate within the mount rather than stretch. Bolts holding joints like rod ends or Johnny Joints can be left tight.
Last edited:
I have Curry/Savvy arms with Johnny Joints so that's not an issue for me luckily.
Any input on a good spring compressor or how you guys do bump stop? All up top? I don't even know how I'd go about installing bump stop extensions on the bottom save for drilling and tapping the pad inside the spring.
I just ordered some 2" wheel spacers to get the tire away from the SwayLoc.
Any input on a good spring compressor or how you guys do bump stop? All up top? I don't even know how I'd go about installing bump stop extensions on the bottom save for drilling and tapping the pad inside the spring.
I just ordered some 2" wheel spacers to get the tire away from the SwayLoc.
@Ovaltine said:
@SkylinesSuck said:
I removed a bolt on one side, and lifted the other end of the axle. That dropped the axle far enough on the unbolted end to simply lift out the old springs and lift in the new ones (OME 2" lift). No spring compressor needed. Then straighten the axle, replace the bolt, and do the other side. That keeps 3 control arms in place, holding the axle steady.
@SkylinesSuck said:
On the front, bump stop is usually added on the bottom, exactly as you said, by drilling and tapping the pad inside the spring. Or drilling and using a self tapping bolt. If you add length to that top bump cup, it just runs into the spring. Coming up from the bottom evens out the angle where the top and bottom meet. Bumpers can be metal or rubber, some people use hockey pucks.
Similar threads
