You're entitled to your own crappy opinion! Big picture here...If you run a body lift and motor mount lift, you can set up a killer tummy tuck to run 31" tires where others can't go.
New to me TJ, got questions
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You're entitled to your own crappy opinion! Big picture here...If you run a body lift and motor mount lift, you can set up a killer tummy tuck to run 31" tires where others can't go.
Tuck and body lift should be done together. Same with that lifted gas tank skid. No point in putting the cart before the horse. But if you want to add to that $1650 I'd love to see just how much money you could dump into a 31" tire build. Zone kit and 33" tires I'd walk all over it for wait, less than $1650 including tires right?
Nope, just not a fan of spending allot of money on mods to run 31" tires. You could say it's my soft spot. We see things a bit different, no big deal (I hope).Obviously you're always right!
No big deal at all. The main point for my perspective was doing things that should be done regardless. For example, you don't have to do the steering, control arms or brake work, but, generally, you should on a 20 year old vehicle. The 1" springs and body lift allow for plenty of clearance for 31's, while not having a huge gap between the fender flares and tires.
As you said, just different ways to tackle a problem. In the end the goal is a safe and fun vehicle to drive. I've test driven enough TJ/LJ Wranglers to know that many of them shouldn't be on the same road I am!
Alright alright alright guys, let’s all get along now, this wasn’t a thread meant to be a pissing contest! Both of you gave some good info and I definitely am taking it all into account.
Here are a few night photos of my front suspension, no they aren’t the best it was dark by time I got home. I will take better ones in the morning but figured I’d post this in the meantime. I do not like the amount of rust on all the suspension components anothe reason I want to just replace most of it, and coat it with something like por15. Tie rod end boots are completely destroyed, the boot at the end of the pitman arm and drag link is leaking grease, so I assume that’s destroyed.
I only honestly am just planning to replace all of it, entire tie rod, drag link, pitman arm, control arms, track bar, sway bar links, and shocks. Ball joints are brand new but that’s about it. Then I’ll send to alignment shop, and add new tires I’m leaning toward 32s... been reading about a Lot oF the extra work for 33s and I don’t know if I want to tackle that. As long as 32s give me good road driving and good amount of off roading I’ll be happy. Anyone recommend any good brands for these components? I’m not rich but I do prefer quality over quantity. I don’t mind paying extra for something that’ll last longer and be more durable/reliable. Seen a steering kit from TRQ For $160 shipped. Not sure if trq is any good.
Here are a few night photos of my front suspension, no they aren’t the best it was dark by time I got home. I will take better ones in the morning but figured I’d post this in the meantime. I do not like the amount of rust on all the suspension components anothe reason I want to just replace most of it, and coat it with something like por15. Tie rod end boots are completely destroyed, the boot at the end of the pitman arm and drag link is leaking grease, so I assume that’s destroyed.
I only honestly am just planning to replace all of it, entire tie rod, drag link, pitman arm, control arms, track bar, sway bar links, and shocks. Ball joints are brand new but that’s about it. Then I’ll send to alignment shop, and add new tires I’m leaning toward 32s... been reading about a Lot oF the extra work for 33s and I don’t know if I want to tackle that. As long as 32s give me good road driving and good amount of off roading I’ll be happy. Anyone recommend any good brands for these components? I’m not rich but I do prefer quality over quantity. I don’t mind paying extra for something that’ll last longer and be more durable/reliable. Seen a steering kit from TRQ For $160 shipped. Not sure if trq is any good.
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and here is the only other con of this Jeep, but isn’t very serious i can most likely repair myself. It’s directly under glove box. But it’s a Jeep right?
Im Pretty sure you have a dropped pitman arm. You can start by getting a oe one.
Good freaking catch, this forum has already helped me more than I could have imagined. Now does that mean my track bar bracket is dropped too? Any recommendations on a pitman arm? Would this one be a good replacement? Omix-ADA 18006.05 Power Steering Pitman Arm for Wrangler TJ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FQ7H4G/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Along the lines of what @CharlesHS suggested in post #9 I wouldn't just start replacing things other than that dropped arm or anything a sharper eye than mine catches. You might look into what's called a dry steer test and carefully inspect the front end. It's possible one or more of your steering or track bar joints are worn. If you find where the play is you can still replace everything but at least you'll have an idea of how to check it in the future and where your problem really was. You also might consider replacing the control arms, those aren't really easy to test and tend to be worn on higher mileage Jeeps. I feel replacing the control arms are better money spent than replacing steering components with no play. I'd say balance tires but it sounds like you are getting new ones, just remember until you replace them you might be fighting a tire balance issue on top of worn parts.
Given the amount of rust and wear shown in the pictures, I feel better about saying to replace the control arms and steering components. Even if there isn't excessive wear in the tie rod ends, or other components, the boots look like they're toast. If I'm going to have to go to the effort to replace a rubber boot, I'd just replace the components.
Also, since you'll have everything apart, you may want to consider inspecting and cleaning the hub bearing assemblies. Given the amount of rust, this might be a chore. The 12 point 13MM bolts will likely cuase you grief trying to remove them. Best to liberally soak everything in advance with your penetrating oil of preference! If you do pull the hub bearings, at least you'll know for sure whether you need to replace them or not.
Also, since you'll have everything apart, you may want to consider inspecting and cleaning the hub bearing assemblies. Given the amount of rust, this might be a chore. The 12 point 13MM bolts will likely cuase you grief trying to remove them. Best to liberally soak everything in advance with your penetrating oil of preference! If you do pull the hub bearings, at least you'll know for sure whether you need to replace them or not.
In the event you want/need it, here's a picture I put together to identify the Moog steering part numbers needed for the ZJ conversion. I purposely left the track bar out, because many folks just get an aftermarket adjustable one as a replacement.
Yes, that pitman arm would work.
The trackbar is to keep the axle in the correct position side to side. The pitman arm moves the drag link to steer.
Your front trackbar looks oem with no bracket. If you have a lift that could be an issue. Also noticed your balljoints are Mevotech TTX, some folks had have trouble with them. I would suggest Dana Spicer balljoints, oe ones. Those mevotech could be contributing to the crappy ride.
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The drop on the stock arm is pretty close to the same height as the end of the steering shaft similar to this.
My thoughts exactly, everything looks rusted and worn, rather just get it all done at once, one weekend opposed to finding things over the next year and having to replace time after time. Not only rather replace it all and get one alignment, new tires and wheels balance, and done.
I’m not sure if they fit, car is already on a 3 inch lift. If they do I would be eternally grateful!!!!
anyone know if they would work?
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