Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Brake line replacement help needed

alexap

alexap

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Original poster
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Dec 20, 2019
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67
Location
Chicago
Hello everyone!

My brake lines have definitely had better days and I'm getting ready to tackle this job and replace them.

I have read all posts that I could find so far and I think I have pretty good idea but would like to confirm if I have all parts I need.

So here it is:

- Hard Brake Lines - going with pre-bent kit from Omix-Ada that some forum members have used and seems like they were satisfied
- Speed Bleeders front
- Speed Bleeders rear
- Soft Brake Lines kit - This comes as a kit, does it look like it contains everything?
- Brake Fluid - Castrol Dot 4, thinking about getting 6 quarts?

Any other pieces that I need?
Should I get cylinders for rear drums and replace those as well? Any special tool required for this?
Before I start everything, what's the best way to get rid of all existing brake fluid from the system?
Should I get some thread sealer for brake lines and which one would you recommend?

Thank you!
 
When doing a whole brake job, spare no expense and go for the wheel cylinders as well. They are cheap peace of mind and the new lines will thread in better. I have been manually bleeding brakes for 45 years and just switched to a Motive power bleeder. Faster, better and much more thorough. You can flush the entire system by starting at the point furthest from master cylinder and work your way forward. A power bleeder is better at pushing the air out. For brake bleeders tools I have bleeder wrenches which are off set, but most box end wrenches work as well. As you are from a rusty area, don't spare pennies, replace your spring kits in your drums too. I like extreme overkill, drums and shoes are not expensive. I love assembling with new parts. Why hang on to money? Putting it in your Jeep is a wise move. Use flare nut wrenches on the hydraulic lines.
 
Last edited:
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Chris said:
I'll defer to @mrblaine on this one, he likely has some solid advice for replacement brake parts.
Click to expand...
In for his reply. Brakes are working fine on my 05 (no ABS), but there will come a Winter where I have nothing better to do and it will be time for some upgrades (hard lines etc.).
 
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alexap said:
Hello everyone!

My brake lines have definitely had better days and I'm getting ready to tackle this job and replace them.

I have read all posts that I could find so far and I think I have pretty good idea but would like to confirm if I have all parts I need.

So here it is:

- Hard Brake Lines - going with pre-bent kit from Omix-Ada that some forum members have used and seems like they were satisfied
- Speed Bleeders front
- Speed Bleeders rear
- Soft Brake Lines kit - This comes as a kit, does it look like it contains everything?
- Brake Fluid - Castrol Dot 4, thinking about getting 6 quarts?

Any other pieces that I need?
Should I get cylinders for rear drums and replace those as well? Any special tool required for this?
Before I start everything, what's the best way to get rid of all existing brake fluid from the system?
Should I get some thread sealer for brake lines and which one would you recommend?

Thank you!
Click to expand...
I don't get the 7 pack part for the flex lines. Other than that they seem fine. 6 quarts? That is what I stock on the shelf twice a year for all the brake work we do. Try a quart.

Hard to say on the cylinders. If I was replacing everything I would likely do it. Not cut and dried though.
Best way to get the fluid flushed out of the system or dispose of it afterwards?

No brake line on the TJ uses thread sealer. They seal via an inverted double flare or crush washers.
 
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mrblaine said:
I don't get the 7 pack part for the flex lines. Other than that they seem fine. 6 quarts? That is what I stock on the shelf twice a year for all the brake work we do. Try a quart.

Hard to say on the cylinders. If I was replacing everything I would likely do it. Not cut and dried though.
Best way to get the fluid flushed out of the system or dispose of it afterwards?

No brake line on the TJ uses thread sealer. They seal via an inverted double flare or crush washers.
Click to expand...


Thanks @mrblaine !
I also don't understand why it says 7 pack, it should really be three lines total with washers right?
I'm thinking of ordering separately cause it looks cheaper.

Here are links to separate pieces:
- 1 front line - don't know if it's right or left?
- 1 front line
- 1 rear line

Should I just get this instead of kit?

Do you have a link for some cylinders that you would recommend and any other pieces in there to change?

Looks like I'm totally wrong with brake fluid, really can't remember where 6 came from.



Flivver250 said:
When doing a whole brake job, spare no expense and go for the wheel cylinders as well. They are cheap peace of mind and the new lines will thread in better. I have been manually bleeding brakes for 45 years and just switched to a Motive power bleeder. Faster, better and much more thorough. You can flush the entire system by starting at the point furthest from master cylinder and work your way forward. A power bleeder is better at pushing the air out. For brake bleeders tools I have bleeder wrenches which are off set, but most box end wrenches work as well. As you are from a rusty area, don't spare pennies, replace your spring kits in your drums too. I like extreme overkill, drums and shoes are not expensive. I love assembling with new parts. Why hang on to money? Putting it in your Jeep is a wise move. Use flare nut wrenches on the hydraulic lines.
Click to expand...

Thanks @Flivver250 !
Do you have a link to spring kits and other things you are referring to?
 
alexap said:
Thanks @mrblaine !
I also don't understand why it says 7 pack, it should really be three lines total with washers right?
I'm thinking of ordering separately cause it looks cheaper.

Here are links to separate pieces:
- 1 front line - don't know if it's right or left?
- 1 front line
- 1 rear line

Should I just get this instead of kit?

Do you have a link for some cylinders that you would recommend and any other pieces in there to change?

Looks like I'm totally wrong with brake fluid, really can't remember where 6 came from.
Click to expand...
I use the Dorman and Centric stuff so it should be fine. Yes, 3 lines with crush washers for 2 of them in the front. No experience with wheel cylinders. I'll do a disc conversion before I swap out wheel cylinders and rebuild rear drums.
 
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I don't have a link, but no doubt your local parts store stock them and surely could be found on Amazon. Once you install the new parts, adjust them well. I adjust them until there is a little drag, firmly step on the brakes a few times and adjust some more, repeat as necessary. I agree with Mr. Blaine that a disc conversion is practical, but drums work well as well. My earliest wrench turning started with drum brakes.
 
MrBlaine do you have a preference of what type of hard brake line you use? Up in the salt roads zone I've been told to only use the nickle lines. Not the S.S. or reg. type. I've personally never seen any corrosion benefits to any of them. The nickle lines do bend easier, but seem to flair worse.
 
Get those brake specific end wrenches as mentioned above. They will save you a lot of cuss words and rounded out flare nuts during R&I.
 
Goatman said:
MrBlaine do you have a preference of what type of hard brake line you use? Up in the salt roads zone I've been told to only use the nickle lines. Not the S.S. or reg. type. I've personally never seen any corrosion benefits to any of them. The nickle lines do bend easier, but seem to flair worse.
Click to expand...

Coated steel lines with abrasion guards (like is used on the Cherokees) is the worst. I've seen those rust thin and then blow through. As long as you don't bend them again and break the coating the stock TJ lines fair alright.

Personally if I'm going through the effort of redoing hard lines I'd only use stainless steel. They are a pain to work with, expensive, and require stronger tooling, but won't rust inside or out and they withstand bumps and scrapes. Somebody makes prebent stainless steel hard lines for the TJ I've never used them but I'd look into them before making your own.

Use a true flaring press.
 
I've had my Craftsmen set for decades. Fit good and don't spread like some 'off brand's sets. Don't know how their quality is anymore.
 
scottgraham said:
We just used "Inline Tube" SS for my kid's rears, they ship quick and look and fit good.
I think we we just used Doorman for the center rear hose.
Click to expand...

Nice, I'm thinking about ordering those.
I read it's a bit more difficult to work with stainless steel lines.
What was your main reason to go with them versus others?
 
alexap said:
Nice, I'm thinking about ordering those.
I read it's a bit more difficult to work with stainless steel lines.
What was your main reason to go with them versus others?
Click to expand...
Good price point, great reviews, he's 17 and it's coming out of his pocket. Also they have detailed instructions if you do the whole line on unpacking according to the website. Again, we only got the rears.
 
Well, I finally started doing this today.
Got all brake lines in place and started working on rear drum brakes.
I ended up stripping one of the bolts that's holding brake cylinder in place.

Does anyone knows size of that bolt?

Thanks!
 

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