Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Basket's Build

Fun trip, it was somewhere around 0 when I left and I don't have a back window. I was freezing my ass of as I went into town to get gas and supplies for lunch. I had to stop at Ace for some stuff and they saved my fingers by giving me a piece of cardboard to run in front of my radiator so I could stay warm

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Airing down spot. I had to flip the Jeep around after these tires so I could stand in the sun
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Some kind of wild animal...
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Some tubular steaks for lunch
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The wild animal was chasing me!!!
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macleanflood said:
Get yourself some heated gloves. I actually bought this pair off Amazon in Moab and had them delivered to our campground. Made the topless drive home survivable when it was 38 in the morning topless on the freeway.

View attachment 665797

-Mac
Click to expand...

this post made me contemplate going to Moab this weekend
 
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Working on organizing my shitbox vehicle tools. Needs to be easily transferrable from one shitbox to another...

The tool roll one is probably adequate for "every day" use. It's got smaller stuff and enough hand tools to do most anything. Probably need to figure out how to fit the axle sockets that are currently in the backpack.

I just need to get a ratchet for it and a tube of JB weld.
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Backpack probably more likely to stay in jeep, also has gloves and headlamp I like to use around the house unless I buy new ones. It's mostly just bigger stuff and probably only needed for more taxing jeep trips, Moab trips, racetrack trips (if I ever get there lol).

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They pack up decently small for the amount of junk
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jeepguy03 said:
More info on that mini jack? That thing is sweet. I also have a backpack full of tools in my Jeep, along with a Viair compressor that has saved me and a few other people numerous times.
Click to expand...

It's just a cheap bottle jack from Walmart honestly lol. I can't remember where my OEM one went. The OEM one is probably a lot better since it has that telescoping piston.

Most of this stuff was just loosely jammed in that same backpack, it worked, but sucked to get into. I was also previously carrying an injection molded box for the tire repair stuff, and a plastic case of fuses. So this is like 70% just better organizing the same stuff and 30% trying to make sure I have everything necessary
 
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Took it running again. That boy sure can run, I got ~12 miles out of him at around 20mph before he started to slow down. Course after around 10minutes of resting in the back, by the time I was airing up he needed to play fetch again. Maniac
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Took it home and started doing a little work finally. Replacing the rear sway bar bushings with ones from Ryan since he doesn't have one anymore. One wasn't too bad... The other one was pretty destroyed. Probably from getting blasted by my exhaust all the time before I added in the downturn.

Yes he's still trying to get me to throw stick while I do this

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Took the tires, springs, shocks out to check out the 2 places it's hitting. Since I don't really hear anything when the passenger side hits dips, but definitely do on the driver, the driveshaft is more of a problem than where the tie rod hits the drag link. So that first.

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Yep... that's definitely touching.

With about this much space leftover:
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So, brain trust. I can probably just add some bump stop there to save my driveshaft. But what if I didn't want to lose the up travel? Would it be strong enough if I cut a little square for clearance out of that strut? I don't know if they are the same material as the skid plate (aluminum) or just steel. If they're steel I could weld on a plate to strengthen it where the cut ends up. I'd probably have to ask UCF on Tuesday what material they are.
 
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lBasket said:
Took it running again. That boy sure can run, I got ~12 miles out of him at around 20mph before he started to slow down. Course after around 10minutes of resting in the back, by the time I was airing up he needed to play fetch again. Maniac
View attachment 667241

Took it home and started doing a little work finally. Replacing the rear sway bar bushings with ones from Ryan since he doesn't have one anymore. One wasn't too bad... The other one was pretty destroyed. Probably from getting blasted by my exhaust all the time before I added in the downturn.

Yes he's still trying to get me to throw stick while I do this

View attachment 667242

Took the tires, springs, shocks out to check out the 2 places it's hitting. Since I don't really hear anything when the passenger side hits dips, but definitely do on the driver, the driveshaft is more of a problem than where the tie rod hits the drag link. So that first.

View attachment 667243

Yep... that's definitely touching.

With about this much space leftover:
View attachment 667244

So, brain trust. I can probably just add some bump stop there to save my driveshaft. But what if I didn't want to lose the up travel? Would it be strong enough if I cut a little square for clearance out of that strut? I don't know if they are the same material as the skid plate (aluminum) or just steel. If they're steel I could weld on a plate to strengthen it where the cut ends up. I'd probably have to ask UCF on Tuesday what material they are.
Click to expand...

Do you own a pocket screwdriver with a little magnet on the handle ? , Dude you can figure out if it's steel or aluminum !
 
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Abendage said:
If I remember correctly on Spring Creek your tire was getting pretty involved with your fender. A touch of bumpstop wouldn’t hurt. Hockey pucks are cheap!
Click to expand...

Was it the actual fender or just the flare? IIRC when I set this all up a couple years ago I didn't really worry about flare interference just the metal part. Though they're a little bent since then. Maybe I'll put the tire on and check, if there is also an issue there then that makes the decision easier
 
lBasket said:
Was it the actual fender or just the flare? IIRC when I set this all up a couple years ago I didn't really worry about flare interference just the metal part. Though they're a little bent since then. Maybe I'll put the tire on and check, if there is also an issue there then that makes the decision easier
Click to expand...

Sounded like metal to me.
 
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The tire doesn't really touch the fender, but it is touching other metal stuff. I'm not sure that matters much except for the brake line

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Other side is not getting touched. So I'm gonna play around and see if bumpstop would still fix that contact. That line doesn't look like it's a good shape anyways??

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I actually don't know how those are contacting?? This is full stuff at full lock. There's like an inch of clearance

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Also is this contact normal??

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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts
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