Everyone’s Favorite Game: What’s Making This Weird Noise?

[Cameron23]

Sound is coming from somewhere between center console and front passenger area. Can hear it best about halfway through the video when I push the clutch in and coast.

I can’t hear it at low speeds, but as soon as I get around 20 it’s loud enough to hear. It’s consistent with wheel speed, not RPMs. I can put the Jeep in neutral and roll and still hear it. Louder with more speed, quieter with less speed until it’s quiet enough not to hear below 20ish. At first I thought it was going to be my dust shield rubbing the rotor or something. That’s not it. Sound is consistent whether clutch is engaged or not.

Recent work is both new front axles, drained and filled with Valvoline Conventional 80W-90 and full swap back to stock suspension all components, with ZJ steering components. Driveability seems fine, nothing feels off. I’m hoping someone hears it and has experienced it and knows what it is. I’m fearing something wrong with the front diff or wheel bearing but idk what it could be everything went together very well. Checked the fluid, it is full. Ran a small telescoping magnet through the fill plug hole and swiped it around in the fluid. Pulled a VERY small amount of glitter out but nothing big and it wasn’t a lot.

 

[CharlesHS]

Check the front hub bearings and front brake pads.
Chock the rear tires, jack up the Jeep and spin each tire individually listening for the noise.
Depending upon IF you hear the noise and which side you hear the noise; remove the tires and inspect the brake pads and hub bearing.
Ensure the brake pads are not staying in contact with the rotor and hand spin the hub listening for grinding or visual signs of metallic debris.

 

[Cameron23]

Check the front hub bearings and front brake pads.
Chock the rear tires, jack up the Jeep and spin each tire individually listening for the noise.
Depending upon IF you hear the noise and which side you hear the noise; remove the tires and inspect the brake pads and hub bearing.
Ensure the brake pads are not staying in contact with the rotor and hand spin the hub listening for grinding or visual signs of metallic debris.

Did this yesterday, all seemed good up front with the brakes. Spun the wheels by hand (not nearly 20mph) and didn’t hear anything out of the ordinary.

 

[jeepguy03]

I would jack up the front end and spin the wheels with the Jeep in neutral not running. See if you can isolate the noise. Could be an axle shaft u-joint or drive-shaft u-joint. Bearings tend to make more of a loud hum when they start to fail. Does it do it when running through the gears with the wheels off the ground?

 

[Cameron23]

I would jack up the front end and spin the wheels with the Jeep in neutral not running. See if you can isolate the noise. Could be an axle shaft u-joint or drive-shaft u-joint. Bearings tend to make more of a loud hum when they start to fail. Does it do it when running through the gears with the wheels off the ground?

Axle shafts are brand new including knuckles.

 

[lBasket]

I bet it's the Jeep

 

[Cameron23]

Bumping for ideas. Have this week and next off and wanna try to figure it out. Saw someone with nearly same noise that diagnosed it as the front drive shaft. But then he never posted an update as to whether or not that was it.

 

[Rickyd]

Bumping for ideas. Have this week and next off and wanna try to figure it out. Saw someone with nearly same noise that diagnosed it as the front drive shaft. But then he never posted an update as to whether or not that was it.

Try pulling one driveshaft at a time and driving it. 4hi for when the rear is out

 

[surfobx031]

Any luck? I've recently developed a low pitch humming or rumble sound at 30+mph & attempting to sort it out. I disconnected the front driveshaft at differential and went for a spin, noise is still there (all 3 driveshaft u-joints are new anyways).

 

[Weasellee]

You went down to stock height? Did you adjust rear pinion angle to accommodate this change? Do you have a slip yoke or DC rear driveshaft? I’m thinking if the pinion angle wasn’t addressed it will wear out the driveshaft and this noise is consistent with a “bad” rear DC joint I had this past year.
Photos of driveshafts and angles

 

[Cameron23]

You went down to stock height? Did you adjust rear pinion angle to accommodate this change? Do you have a slip yoke or DC rear driveshaft? I’m thinking if the pinion angle wasn’t addressed it will wear out the driveshaft and this noise is consistent with a “bad” rear DC joint I had this past year.
Photos of driveshafts and angles

Driveshafts are stock. No SYE.

 

[Cameron23]

Update. I heated that shit up and beat it out with the air hammer.

Now I have to wait on Amazon to get me my bolts and nutcerts, so I can reattach my skid to support my transfer case. They were supposed to arrive today, but according to Amazon they haven’t even shipped yet.

 

[Weasellee]

Update. I heated that shit up and beat it out with the air hammer. View attachment 663209View attachment 663210View attachment 663211

Now I have to wait on Amazon to get me my bolts and nutcerts, so I can reattach my skid to support my transfer case. They were supposed to arrive today, but according to Amazon they haven’t even shipped yet.

Shoulda ordered em from the Wizard. Shipping and customer service are second to none

 

[Cameron23]

Shoulda ordered em from the Wizard. Shipping and customer service are second to none

Live and learn. I was trying to get them ASAP and Amazon is usually as quick as they come.

 

[Cameron23]

Update: Region Offroad’s nutcerts work great. Ended up having to replace 3 of them.

As far as the noise, with the front driveshaft out the noise is gone. Guess I’ll start pricing out a replacement. Since I am back to stock height should I just find a stock replacement or is there a better option?

 

[Weasellee]

Since I am back to stock height should I just find a stock replacement or is there a better option?

By better do you mean stronger? Or less expensive? Or…


I’d bet many here have a stock front shaft they no longer use. Mine is from an LJ and needs rebuilding. But you are welcome to it.

 

[Cameron23]

Thinking about going the Tom Woods route, because it’s $399 while a Rock Auto one is $350-$425.

Even though I’m not lifted I’m thinking Tom Woods would be higher quality and therefore better longevity. Anyone have any comments on that plan?

 

[macleanflood]

Anyone have any comments on that plan?

Yes on Tom Woods. More so because you can measure and get it made to the correct length.

-Mac

 

[Weasellee]

Thinking about going the Tom Woods route, because it’s $399 while a Rock Auto one is $350-$425.

Even though I’m not lifted I’m thinking Tom Woods would be higher quality and therefore better longevity. Anyone have any comments on that plan?

I’ve only purchased driveshafts from Woods for Jeeps.

 

[Cameron23]

Went with Tom Woods. Should be installing the weekend.