Starting from square one

[shumthisway]

Good morning all!

So I have a '05 LJ 6 speed with what i think is a 6 inch lift and 3.73 gears. I've been slowly discovering all the things the previous owners didn't do correctly or well... problem I've found recently. I do not have a SYE, stock front and rear upper control arms, rear track bar isn't correct length/ isn't adjustable (I think it has the extension welded in for its lower mount). What else should I look at? Things I've done to the jeep sofar: new radiator, thermostat, shocks, rear lower control arms. Also quick plug i gotta softtop frame I'm tryna get rid of if your in north florida.

***updates***
Thank you for everyone thats commented sofar, sofar New body mounts are on order, and I plan on getting rockjock upper control arms front and rear (front lower are a little old but double adjustable and will get replaced eventually) , jbconversions SYE, JKS adjustable rear track bar, tom woods rear drive shaft

 

[rasband]

That's a good start. I'd add in drive shafts - there's no way they are long for this world with a 6" lift on mostly stock components...

 

[JMT]

Good morning all!

So I have a '05 LJ 6 speed with what i think is a 6 inch lift and 3.73 gears. I've been slowly discovering all the things the previous owners didn't do correctly or well... problem I've found recently. I do not have a SYE, stock front and rear upper control arms, rear track bar isn't correct length/ isn't adjustable (I think it has the extension welded in for its lower mount). What else should I look at? Things I've done to the jeep sofar: new radiator, thermostat, shocks, rear lower control arms. Also quick plug i gotta softtop frame I'm tryna get rid of if your in north florida.

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I’d start by measuring your actual lift rather than trusting what it “looks like” or the PO told you. Stock front is 12” and stock rear is 8”, so anything over those numbers is the amount of lift you actually have. It does not appear that you have a transfer case drop so if you really have 6” of lift, where is that coming from? You can have a suspension lift only, and if so with 6” you would have major driveline vibrations and probably not even be able to drive it due to bind. If you have a suspension plus body lift adding up to 6” you need to measure how much suspension lift and how much body lift. A body lift should not be more than 1.25”. At any rate, measure the springs to determine the amount of lift you actually have (12” front and 8” rear is stock). Report back.

 

[shumthisway]

I’d start by measuring your actual lift rather than trusting what it “looks like” or the PO told you. Stock front is 12” and stock rear is 8”, so anything over those numbers is the amount of lift you actually have. It does not appear that you have a transfer case drop so if you really have 6” of lift, where is that coming from? You can have a suspension lift only, and if so with 6” you would have major driveline vibrations and probably not even be able to drive it due to bind. If you have a suspension plus body lift adding up to 6” you need to measure how much suspension lift and how much body lift. A body lift should not be more than 1.25”. At any rate, measure the springs to determine the amount of lift you actually have (12” front and 8” rear is stock). Report back.

So just did some measuring, front springs are 18" tall rear springs are at like 13.5" tall. The body mounts are 2" tall. I do get vibration at highway speeds but its still drivable. I may or may not have just gotten back from a 1000 mile + trip one way in this thing...

 

[shumthisway]

That's a good start. I'd add in drive shafts - there's no way they are long for this world with a 6" lift on mostly stock components...

Those are on the list too.

 

[macleanflood]

 

[shumthisway]

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Post measuring i do in fact have a 6 inch lift.

 

[DaveC]

So just did some measuring, front springs are 18" tall rear springs are at like 13.5" tall. The body mounts are 2" tall. I do get vibration at highway speeds but its still drivable. I may or may not have just gotten back from a 1000 mile + trip one way in this thing...

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That body mount is actually a Daystar 1" body lift that replaces the OE body mount and adds 1". Depending on how you plan to sort your spring/body lift combination, I'd highly recommend replacing those with a set of OE style body mounts and then if you want a body lift, using either a 1" or 1.25" proper body lift like the BMB or Savvy styles that allow the OE body mounts to disperse vibrations as they were designed. Those Daystar systems are made of hard poly with a steel sleeve affixed inside, which don't disperse vibrations like the OE body mounts.

 

[JMT]

So just did some measuring, front springs are 18" tall rear springs are at like 13.5" tall. The body mounts are 2" tall. I do get vibration at highway speeds but its still drivable. I may or may not have just gotten back from a 1000 mile + trip one way in this thing...

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It’s an LJ. That helps some. I’d definitely Remove some of that lift. You need to get rid of that 2” body lift anyway, so start reading up on the forum and get that done first.

You’ll need:

1) detach the fan shroud
2) shorter bolts
3) there are thirteen body mounts (1x in front middle under radiator, 2x in headlight cavity under grill, 6x under the doors on the frame (3x/side), 2x above rear shock crossmember, 2x rear corners at bumper).
4) something will have to be changed with respect to your fan shroud and/or upper radiator hose. See if you have a motor mount lift because if you do you probably want to remove that too.
5) detach your gas tank filler bezel and gas tank fill tube. It has been lengthened to compensate for the 2” body lift and you’ll have to correct that.
6) nothing too difficult, just takes time and patience. Be careful.

 

[MikeE024]

I’d go with Blaine’s 1.25” body lift kit

https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/pr...its-97-06-tj-and-tj-unlimited-all-trim-levels

 

[shumthisway]

It’s an LJ. That helps some. I’d definitely Remove some of that lift. You need to get rid of that 2” body lift anyway, so start reading up on the forum and get that done first.

You’ll need:

1) detach the fan shroud
2) shorter bolts
3) there are thirteen body mounts (1x in front middle under radiator, 2x in headlight cavity under grill, 6x under the doors on the frame (3x/side), 2x above rear shock crossmember, 2x rear corners at bumper).
4) something will have to be changed with respect to your fan shroud and/or upper radiator hose. See if you have a motor mount lift because if you do you probably want to remove that too.
5) detach your gas tank filler bezel and gas tank fill tube. It has been lengthened to compensate for the 2” body lift and you’ll have to correct that.
6) nothing too difficult, just takes time and patience. Be careful.

Okay, definitely seems like that'll be a little bit of a PITA, but doable... Do i have a motor mount lift?

 

[shumthisway]

That body mount is actually a Daystar 1" body lift that replaces the OE body mount and adds 1". Depending on how you plan to sort your spring/body lift combination, I'd highly recommend replacing those with a set of OE style body mounts and then if you want a body lift, using either a 1" or 1.25" proper body lift like the BMB or Savvy styles that allow the OE body mounts to disperse vibrations as they were designed. Those Daystar systems are made of hard poly with a steel sleeve affixed inside, which don't disperse vibrations like the OE body mounts.

So my overall plan is to replace the least amount of shit possible while getting the jeep where it should be. I'd like to keep the suspension lift, have no problem removing the body lift, especially if it's going to help the overall ride of the jeep.

 

[JMT]

Okay, definitely seems like that'll be a little bit of a PITA, but doable... Do i have a motor mount lift?
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It doesn’t look like you have a motor mount lift. Next I’d look and see if the fan shroud is notched to make room for the upper radiator hose. If it is the PO moved the mounting points of the shroud to keep the fan centered in the shroud. Check and make sure the fan is centered in the shroud while you are at it.

 

[shumthisway]

It doesn’t look like you have a motor mount lift. Next I’d look and see if the fan shroud is notched to make room for the upper radiator hose. If it is the PO moved the mounting points of the shroud to keep the fan centered in the shroud. Check and make sure the fan is centered in the shroud while you are at it.

It is not notched. Since I'm already replacing pretty much everything it feels like should I get new springs as well? If so what brand? I'm not opposed to dropping it to a 4 inch lift but I'd like to keep it at the 6 inches it is currently. Real curious to see how much better the ride is after all this is corrected lol.

 

[macleanflood]

Currie has 4" springs specifically for the LJ. Springs determine ride height. Shocks determine ride quality.

-Mac

 

[JMT]

It is not notched. Since I'm already replacing pretty much everything it feels like should I get new springs as well? If so what brand? I'm not opposed to dropping it to a 4 inch lift but I'd like to keep it at the 6 inches it is currently. Real curious to see how much better the ride is after all this is corrected lol.

I’d like to see this rig in person. If it’s working you can leave it alone. Doesn’t sound right though. 6” of “suspension” lift isn’t needed for anything.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Your Jeep reminds me of when @Nashville TJ's Jeep was just a baby.

 

[taylormade73]

if so with 6” you would have major driveline vibrations and probably not even be able to drive it due to bind.

How does the driveline know the difference between a 6” suspension lift and a 4” suspension lift with a tummy tuck that raises the transfer case 2”?

 

[JMT]

How does the driveline know the difference between a 6” suspension lift and a 4” suspension lift with a tummy tuck that raises the transfer case 2”?

It doesn’t. But in his context he has 6” suspension lift with no SYE, DC or adjustable upper CA’s. That’s not a good way to do things IMO.

 

[taylormade73]

It doesn’t. But in his context he has 6” suspension lift with no SYE, DC or adjustable upper CA’s. That’s not a good way to do things IMO.

Just trying to provide some context for those readers following along. If those conditions are true, then lowering to a 4 inch lift does not solve the potential driveline issues because he still does not have an SYE, DC driveshaft or adjustable upper control arms. However, if he were to install those things and keep the 6 inch suspension lift, it would be similar to those of us that have installed a 4 inch suspension lift and a tummy tuck raising the transfer case 2 inches. Essentially, the lack of those things would potentially cause driveline vibrations and bind, not the 6 inch lift.