Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

An LJ project to call my own

Bruh

New Member
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
May 16, 2025
Messages
8
Location
SCPA
Back in '22 I made the mistake of buying someone else's project Jeep on FBMktplace. After 2 years of fighting the combination of a patchwork frame and a myriad of electrical gremlins, I finally got the shits and decided I would start hunting for a project to call my own. Around the turn of the year I finally found what I thought I was looking for.

Enter:
1747409185477.jpeg

Another marketplace find, sure, but I talked with the owner, got some promising pictures of the frame and underside, and took the 2 hour drive to take a look. The frame was as clean as I had hoped but the tub could have used a little attention, which at the time seemed like no big deal. It also had a brake controller and air suspension inlet ports which I maybe should have been a little more suspicious about. A month later in early February, I made the trek out one last time to take it home. To the tune of a flat 10k (a bit on the steep side, I know,) I was the owner of a mostly clean manual LJ with about 112k miles on it.

And so the fun began.
The first order of business was to replace the top. It been sitting under a carport for the twoish years and the old rampage top was ROACHED. Trampstamp be damned, Bestop had the only top style I liked, so I flushed $1500 to keep the weather out. The mirrors were all around in pretty bad shape too, so I again put out about $120 for new a new rearview and side mirrors with offsets. Next was to poach as much as I feasibly could from my previous TJ as possible. In order, I swapped/stole: wheels & tires, head unit, subwoofer, radio control steering wheel, backup cam, intake, rear underseat drawer (which is currently sitting in storage, another story for another day).

All of that gets us here:
20250228_192326.jpg

Nothing too insane but progress nonetheless.
"Why the cribbing?"
Well,

I had one last thing to poach from the other TJ. The goal was to pull the AX-15 I had swapped into the '01 on the right into my new LJ. Unfortunately a running theme of this entire project reared its ugly head for the first time. I hadn't done enough research to learn that the NSG370 bell housing was not only molded into the transmission itself, but was also patterned different due to the '06 models having the revised 4.0. I also had only realized this after I had dropped BOTH transmissions, like a moron. Thankfully, AdvanceAdapters makes bellhousings to convert the new-style 4.0s to the older AX/NV trans bolt patterns, so I decided to pick up one. While I was in here at least, I decided to swap the Centerforce out of the TJ, replace the pilot bearing in the LJ, and get its flywheel machined. After putting the trans back in the TJ so I could get it out of the garage and let my brother get his project in from the rain, I moved on to the other reason for having the trans out and the Jeep on blocks. I needed to undercoat the body.

For this, I chose Eastwood's rust encapsulator and just honestly went apeshit up underneath the main tub until I had an even, flat coating across everything and couldn't feel my face from all of the fumes (full respirators with this are a godsend.) The rust encapsulator also worked pretty well as a primer for a couple spots on the body where paint was rusting through. After sanding the areas down and priming, I painted with color match and clearcoated to hopefully stop or at least slow the spread. While it was up, I also took this time to put on a new rear bumper/tire carrier from RockHard and a winch plate from Quadratec to host my XBull winch I poached off of the TJ. Once I got it down and rolling, I replaced the fenders and headlights.

This put me at about early March, and I decided I was done with major work for a while. The bellhousing adapter wouldn't be in till may and I had some planning to do for my next steps forward.
 
The next couple months brought on some smaller fixes; valve cover gaskets, battery tray, fuel filler, inner shift boot. I added a couple new things as well, mostly trivial stuff like grab handles, battery terminals, a battery disconnect switch, and my trail badges, shift knobs, and seasonal soft door swap from the '01.

I decided the next hurdle I would take would be accessory electrical. I wanted to add a relay box with cab switches to control the winch and any accessory lights I could add. Unfortunately, I wanted more switches than the stock dash pod could support. Luckily, I have a 3d scanner, CAD experience, and a 3D Printer. Over the next month, using a scan I took of the OEM pod, I managed to make a custom dash insert that could comfortably house 8 switches, the OE 12V ports, the subwoofer bass control, a USB charger, and a USB/3.5 passthrough for the radio.

1747414067371.png


1747414017595.png

20250516_125218.jpg
20250516_130053.jpg

Overall the design/production process took about a month and a half, as I just finished it this past week.
 
The next couple months brought on some smaller fixes; valve cover gaskets, battery tray, fuel filler, inner shift boot. I added a couple new things as well, mostly trivial stuff like grab handles, battery terminals, a battery disconnect switch, and my trail badges, shift knobs, and seasonal soft door swap from the '01.

I decided the next hurdle I would take would be accessory electrical. I wanted to add a relay box with cab switches to control the winch and any accessory lights I could add. Unfortunately, I wanted more switches than the stock dash pod could support. Luckily, I have a 3d scanner, CAD experience, and a 3D Printer. Over the next month, using a scan I took of the OEM pod, I managed to make a custom dash insert that could comfortably house 8 switches, the OE 12V ports, the subwoofer bass control, a USB charger, and a USB/3.5 passthrough for the radio.

View attachment 616234

View attachment 616232
View attachment 616237View attachment 616243
Overall the design/production process took about a month and a half, as I just finished it this past week.

Nice work!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bruh

And now for things in planning:​

Suspension​

As I suspected, the LJ having a brake controller and air suspension fillers did indeed mean it had been used for towing. Because of this, the stock suspension is pretty well shot. This isn't too terrible an issue as I was planning on lifting it anyway, so it just means a lift is slightly higher priority.
Currently, I am trickle-buying the parts to install a 3.5" lift using OG Savvy/Rockjock JJ control arms, 3.5" RK triple-rate springs, and Fox adjustable shocks.

Driveline​

To be blunt, I hate the NSG370. The gates are small, the shifter is sloppy, first is pretty much useless, and this transmission in particular is tired and starting to clack/grind in every gear. It has to go. Thankfully, I found a refreshed AX-15 on marketplace that I can mate up with the AdvancedAdapters bellhousing kit I purchased earlier. It should hopefully be here early this coming week so I'm on track for a late-week install if the weather holds out.

Advanced Driveline​

I had an ideal endgame for this LJ in particular. Given the extra wheelbase length, I figured this would be a great host for a doubler/crawlbox. I've been working on an FST 231 doubler box for the better part of 2 months and am waiting on him to let me purchase a replacement blocking plate to rebuild the box housing. I've already built an HD 231 SSSYE case using parts from JBConversions. I bought an AdvancedAdapters Atlas dual stick shifter that I am in the process of modifying to hopefully allow for a stock-like fit in the original console while also allowing me to shift both boxes. To accommodate the advanced driveline modifications and allow for the use of a lowpro TC skid, I'm planning on adding a 1.25" body+motor mount lift.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Irun
The next couple months brought on some smaller fixes; valve cover gaskets, battery tray, fuel filler, inner shift boot. I added a couple new things as well, mostly trivial stuff like grab handles, battery terminals, a battery disconnect switch, and my trail badges, shift knobs, and seasonal soft door swap from the '01.

I decided the next hurdle I would take would be accessory electrical. I wanted to add a relay box with cab switches to control the winch and any accessory lights I could add. Unfortunately, I wanted more switches than the stock dash pod could support. Luckily, I have a 3d scanner, CAD experience, and a 3D Printer. Over the next month, using a scan I took of the OEM pod, I managed to make a custom dash insert that could comfortably house 8 switches, the OE 12V ports, the subwoofer bass control, a USB charger, and a USB/3.5 passthrough for the radio.

View attachment 616234

View attachment 616232
View attachment 616237View attachment 616243
Overall the design/production process took about a month and a half, as I just finished it this past week.

Would you be willing to share the scan file for the OEM pod? I have a 3D scanner with intent to do the same thing and yours looks better than any of my attempts so far.
 
Would you be willing to share the scan file for the OEM pod? I have a 3D scanner with intent to do the same thing and yours looks better than any of my attempts so far.

Sure!
This should contain both cleaned scans (one is single face, the other is a solid) as well as the STEP and SLDPRT files for the modeled blank pod.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Apparition
Milestone Update!
20250728_112500.jpg


Phase 1 consisted pretty much entirely of lift components, both body and suspension. Someone thought it would be a good idea to do this over the two primary 90°, 100% humidity months, thus prolonging the overall time for the install due to days I couldn't be assed to drown in my own sweat.
Components of note:
MORE bombproof 1" motor mounts​
Savvy 1.25" body lift​
Rockjock JJ short single adjustable upper/lower front/rear control arms​
RockKrawler 3.5" triple-rate springs​
Fox IFP 2.0 adjustable shocks​
JKS front/rear HD adjustable track bars​
Metalcloak front QD sway bar linksFront axle JJ bushing delete​
UCF lopro trans mount​
While installing the body lift, I also found that I had significant rot in the middle driver body mount section of the tub and had to install a Taboo Customs patch to get everything sorted and connected correctly. I also took this time to finish my trans swap for an AX-15 using an AdvanceAdapters bellhousing kit and the old Centerforce and CoreShifters short-throw from my 01. Phase 1 is done as far as I'm concerned. I have some small tuning things to do with the lift still, but that's probably going to be done in tandem with early phase 2 modifications.
I'm shooting to do phase 2 once the weather cools down some, I'm getting my hands on a set of regeared rubicon axles and an NVG241OR and plan to install them alongside the FST doubler and UCF high-clearance skid. In the meantime, I have a set of blem rocker guards from Flux that could use lined up and painted in prep for being installed with the rest.


20250709_194740.jpg

20250709_194745.jpg
20250709_194757.jpg
20250709_173809.jpg
20250728_132640.jpg

20250728_132633.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: StoneCold
Can you explain how the Lopro mount works, I am assembling a list of items for phase 2 of my build and the UCF Extra clearance alu skid is on that list. The other option, UCF ultra clearance says it requires the lopro. How are the driveline vibes with the Lopro? Any pictures of how it mounts up? What do you gain using it over the factory mount?
 
Can you explain how the Lopro mount works, I am assembling a list of items for phase 2 of my build and the UCF Extra clearance alu skid is on that list. The other option, UCF ultra clearance says it requires the lopro. How are the driveline vibes with the Lopro? Any pictures of how it mounts up? What do you gain using it over the factory mount?

I don't have any good photos but it basically replaces the rubber portion of the transmission to skid adapter plate. It lowers the overall clearance by somewhere near a half to 3/4 an inch and sucks the transmission down into the skid a little further, thus adding more angle to the driveline. I used this in combination with the motor mount lift to allow me to run the Jeep with the stock shafts until I sort out the rest of my phase 2 upgrades. I haven't really noticed an increase in vibrations with the stock skid. It seems as long as you set your pinion/shaft angles correctly it seems to be pretty much the same as stock. This post from AndyG might be up your alley, as it has some really good pictures and explanations for ways to reduce vibes if you get them.
 
nice progress! did you weld in that Taboo Customs patch or is it just resting there and sandwiched between the body mount? I can't see welds in the picture but i also have terrible vision
 
nice progress! did you weld in that Taboo Customs patch or is it just resting there and sandwiched between the body mount? I can't see welds in the picture but i also have terrible vision

It's welded! I just did a LOT of grinding to even out the welds before I painted it.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts