Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Woodrow's 97 Green TJ Moderate Build

You buy a nice, rust free frame, send it to me, and I'll give you mine back. You can cut whatever you need from it. Should be able to get enough steel for your stretch...Might not be all continuous, but you'll have enough, eventually. :)

We are spoiled over here. There is one an hr away from me for 300$

We are spoiled here. Having grown up in MI, I'm well aware. The frame I picked up is from an 05 TJ. The jeep's body was rough, but not rusty at all. I need to clean it up, but the frame seems really good. Zero scale inside and straight. I hate to cut it up, but I'm gonna.
 
Are you doing a wheelbase only stretch or a tj6 type stretch?

I'm going for 101" wheelbase (like a stock XJ). I would actually like to do a TJ6 at some point. But that would be with a V8, tons and 40s so it would be a different build. I could use part of this frame for that though, so I'll definitely hang onto it.
 
I'm going for 101" wheelbase (like a stock XJ). I would actually like to do a TJ6 at some point. But that would be with a V8, tons and 40s so it would be a different build. I could use part of this frame for that though, so I'll definitely hang onto it.

Why the frame stretch? Don't people get 101 with the stock frame?
 
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Why the frame stretch? Don't people get 101 with the stock frame?

I am doing something different with the wheel arches to make using my current tank without mods (other than to the tank skid) easier/more likely. Also 101" (specifically 6" in the back) with the tank in stock location, no comp cut and retaining a filler neck near the stock position is pretty challenging it would seem. An inch or 2 starts to be a big difference.
 
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I am doing something different with the wheel arches to make using my current tank without mods (other than to the tank skid) easier/more likely. Also 101" (specifically 6" in the back) with the tank in stock location, no comp cut and retaining a filler neck near the stock position is pretty challenging it would seem. An inch or 2 starts to be a big difference.

As always I'll be watching with much interest to see how you accomplish this..
 
You buy a nice, rust free frame, send it to me, and I'll give you mine back. You can cut whatever you need from it. Should be able to get enough steel for your stretch...Might not be all continuous, but you'll have enough, eventually. :)

just run it back through the blast furnace with some coke and it'll be fine (some assembly required)
 
We are spoiled here. Having grown up in MI, I'm well aware. The frame I picked up is from an 05 TJ. The jeep's body was rough, but not rusty at all. I need to clean it up, but the frame seems really good. Zero scale inside and straight. I hate to cut it up, but I'm gonna.

Yeah...this is what 1500 gets me locally. Its decent, but not great.

https://www.facebook.com/share/17SnMFCEDf/

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Baseline 4x4 is about a 2.5 hour drive for me, and I can pick a truly rust free one there for about the same. I saved this one, since its only a half hour away. Nothing like 300 bucks that @Rickyd posted though. However, if you all want a hard top, I can pick those up for 500 bucks any day of the week.
 
Yeah I need to take a load of PNW frames back east and buy hard tops there. Can sell the frames for twice the PNW price and sell the hard tops here for $1500.

-Mac

I was thinking about the same thing...even put some thought into a returnable crate that you could stuff two hardtops or two frames in. Work with a partner, send two hard tops west, and send two frames east. I don't know that you'd make a ton of money...sending LTL shipments is $$$
 
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Its so cool to jump in, throw my phone on the mount and fire up a podcast, playlist or radio station internet live stream all while having the other phone functions (maps etc) right there on the dash. And I can clearly hear the sound and feel the base at highway speeds with the doors off and top flipped open. Much better👍

I’m currently rereading your build tread, thanks for documenting so thoroughly, and have made it up to this point. 1.5 years later, are you still enjoying your set up? Any tweaks if you were to do it again?

Thanks in advance!
 
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I’m currently rereading your build tread, thanks for documenting so thoroughly, and have made it up to this point. 1.5 years later, are you still enjoying your set up? Any tweaks if you were to do it again?

Thanks in advance!
It is still good. I have thought for 10-15 years that the emphasis on electronics in newer vehicles is excessive (not an original thought around here🤣). Your phone evolves pretty quickly. All your vehicle needs to do, with regard to infotainment, is be able to let the phone do its thing (play music, podcasts, internet radio, navigation etc.). My set up does that nicely enough. The screen is small and the sound stage has lots of background noise but it is a convertible on mud tires so…
 
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The winter upgrades have officially begun. It was tempting to be coy about this project but that’s not my nature and getting it all out there means I have to get it done or look like a loser. So the plan is :
1) 8” stretch (2” front and 6” rear) to get out to XJ wheelbase at 101”. No comp cut and tank in stock-ish location.
2) Savvy mid arm with Fox 2.0 x 12” coil over suspension.
3) Hi-lines
4) PSC hydro assist steering.
There. I wrote it down. Now I just need to do it by Sand Hollow in May. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time…

3 weeks ago, @macleanflood and I harvested a frame from an 05 junkyard TJ. Work, Thanksgiving and another fire truck issue happened (heater core and blower motor-which I won’t bother detailing except to say that getting those 2 things replaced on a 94 GMC truck is WAY easier than a TJ). Those all delayed starting on the stretch. I got the frame cleaned up and started taking it apart to get what I needed:
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The frame was in great shape. Rust belt guys would be pissed at what I paid for it. Zero rust inside. Better than the pretty decent frame on my 97. A shame to cut it up, but cut it up I did. Here are the necessary rear segments cut out and shaved and moved into the garage:
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Next, it was time to start on the Jeep. I first ran the tank dry and rolled it into the garage. Next, I took a few measurements to define the starting point with respect to ride height and wheelbase:
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Here is the current gap between the rear diff cover and Genright stretch tank skid at full stuff:
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Its only 4” and I need 6”. I hope my plan to get 2 more inches works🤞

I have discussed this a lot with @mrblaine who is a phenomenal resource as we all know. He said start in the front because (if I understood correctly) the ride height is more tightly defined by things you can’t change easily. However, I’m starting in the rear because the benefits of the changes are greater and if I don’t get both ends done by Sand Hollow, I want the rear more. Also @Fluxor ’s hi-lines with removable flares won’t be ready for a couple of months.

So, the Genright corner armor came off (which I will sell to a forum member for a good price or on marketplace for as much as I can get) and the rear axle came out:
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This brings me up to today’s project which was shave the Dana 44. Everthing except the lower control arm mounts came off:
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Note the welding curtains and tarp. Thanks to @sab for the idea. Its gotten chilly and dark as well as intermittently wet out so this has to happen inside. Grinding metal is a giant mess. The barriers worked well however. Most of the debris hits them and falls to the ground. Then it’s pretty easy to sweep it up (see pile next to brackets in 2nd pic).

It feels so good to get going on this😃
 
The winter upgrades have officially begun. It was tempting to be coy about this project but that’s not my nature and getting it all out there means I have to get it done or look like a loser. So the plan is :
1) 8” stretch (2” front and 6” rear) to get out to XJ wheelbase at 101”. No comp cut and tank in stock-ish location.
2) Savvy mid arm with Fox 2.0 x 12” coil over suspension.
3) Hi-lines
4) PSC hydro assist steering.
There. I wrote it down. Now I just need to do it by Sand Hollow in May. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time…

Wow, Woodrow - that's a lot to get done by May - there goes any social life you had. :ROFLMAO: We're all cheering for you!

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I am sure you probably have it already and I just don't see it but make sure that you have a way to hold the jeep down/up in the front and back while on the lift and everything removed from the back. I had to add an anchor in my floor to hold the front down since I couldn't have any stands aft of basically midpoint of the jeep when I removed the frame. I am very jealous of the lift!
 
I am sure you probably have it already and I just don't see it but make sure that you have a way to hold the jeep down/up in the front and back while on the lift and everything removed from the back. I had to add an anchor in my floor to hold the front down since I couldn't have any stands aft of basically midpoint of the jeep when I removed the frame. I am very jealous of the lift!

Oh, yeah - this is great, and vital, advice. Woodrow, the lift pads on your lift are different than mine, so it may not work, but I keep a large C-clamp at each pad to lock the LJ to the lift:
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The shortness of the TJ (which is even worse than my LJ) demands this because as you cut large, heavy pieces off, it will get "tippy." Having the rig fall off the lift would ruin your day!

{As Victor noted, you may have already considered this, so I apologize if you have and I'm in "Captain Obvious" mode...}
 
I am very jealous of the lift!

Yeah, we’re still red-necking it Woodrow. Down on the floor these bones. After a few days creaking like the Jeep. Can’t tell a difference. How we become one with the Jeep. I’ll still take a lift though!

Nice project. I’m sure you’ve got raised body mounts in there too or may already be done…looking forward to it all come together.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator