I appreciate you taking the time to posts all this. Am I okay with just doing the head? Some of what you mentioned is probably out of my league to do on my own.
Could use a little help
- Thread starter Rustee
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I appreciate you taking the time to posts all this. Am I okay with just doing the head? Some of what you mentioned is probably out of my league to do on my own.
Oh man, I just looked up that head and it's $1500 -$2000 (I wish I could stick a WOW emoji right here)
I'm about to go attempt to inspect the frame further. It's causing me anxiety now lol
Thanks man, I'm pretty damn stoked about it really. I love the Jeep already. I drove it through the yard yesterday and it felt so smooth with the suspension, nothing like my YJ I had years ago. I'm inspecting again today for rust just to make sure that I didn't miss anything.
I bought mine online but I would assume you can source them from local auto parts stores or even Walmart. That brand, along with local auto parts stores, will cost you more than something off of Amazon. Just search foam cannon and you'll get tens of options from cheap junk to expensive detailer cannons.
Drill one in the very back at a 45 degree angle:
... but a little bit more outboard to avoid the nutsert.
So it looks like you guys were right about the rust inside the frame. I inspected both sides pretty thoroughly and the passenger side was clear of it from what I could tell, other than some mud/dirt in there. The driver side between the front and rear control arm mounts had some flakes. Not thick flakes but some flakes. The from still felt thick it seemed and didn't feel like anything I should get stressed over but I would like to stop it in its tracks immediately and seal it somehow so that it doesn't continue..any suggestions on what to spray or put in there after I drill the holes?
When drilling behind the front control arm and in front of the rear control arm, shouldn't I be looking for the lowest points in those areas so that all the water drains?
And is that very back area that you said to drill the 45 degree hole at closed off or something? It looks like there is a drain hole right on the other side of the nut.
The problem is micro in scale...
The end cross member wraps UNDER the frame. Water can - and does - accumulate in the micro groove between the end of the frame and the inner face of the cross member. I originally drilled a 1/2" hole through the cross member congruent with the inside bottom of the frame. I found this:
I flushed all that out with a bunch of water, but saw the afore mentioned gap/groove at the bottom of my hole. So I did this:
Hogged the hole out so it would be low enough to keep that section drained. Because this ended up being as FUGLY as home made sin, another member here learned from my mistakes and drilled the 45 degree hole previously shown. He in turn recommended drilling the hole further outboard than he did. Thank Goddess this is all hidden behind the rear bumper!
Flush the crap out of your frame after drilling the holes, not only to get rid of what's already there, but to get rid of the drill shavings. After it dries, spray the crap out of it with Rust-Oleum primer, then top coat it too. The above picture hadn't be (re)painted as yet.
YMMV and all that.
After I drill and flush the inside of the frame out, what can I put inside the frame to stop the rust that I did find? I there any type of rust-oleum for that?
And what kid of drill did you use? I started to drill today but that bit did not want to penetrate that steel.
So when you say a little more outward, you're saying a little more toward the outer side of the jeep? To miss the nutsert but stay at a 45 degree angle?
I just used "Rusty Metal Primer", my old standby.
A good SHARP one!
Start small, like 1/8", then work up in size until you get where you need to be. But they need to be SHARP. I have a "Drill Doctor" bit sharpener which is worth its weight in gold.
Correct. You don't have to do the 45, you can drill it straight in then slot it down like I did. But that's more trouble and looks terrible.
I just used "Rusty Metal Primer", my old standby.
A good SHARP one!
Start small, like 1/8", then work up in size until you get where you need to be. But they need to be SHARP. I have a "Drill Doctor" bit sharpener which is worth its weight in gold.
Correct. You don't have to do the 45, you can drill it straight in then slot it down like I did. But that's more trouble and looks terrible.
I think I'm okay (or say that now lol) to drill at a 45, just wanted to confirm what you meant by outward. Outward=move to the right or left a little (depending which side of the jeep I'm working on) to avoid the nutsert inside the frame?
Use the Eastwood internal frame coating,tape up all holes in frame with blue painters tape.the nozzle has a long hose with holes that spray everywhere.make sure you do it outside it will stain concrete.i did mine 4years ago and it’s still great.
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