I bought the Jeep near Asheville NC in the mountains. Waynesville I think it was.
Could use a little help
- Thread starter Rustee
- Start date
I bought the Jeep near Asheville NC in the mountains. Waynesville I think it was.
What do you guys use to wash and/or condition the soft tops with?
I'm wanting to wash it tomorrow and get the mud off of it but not really sure what to use. The seats are a vinyl type material. Not sure what to use for the dash either. My main concern is the soft top though.
I'm wanting to wash it tomorrow and get the mud off of it but not really sure what to use. The seats are a vinyl type material. Not sure what to use for the dash either. My main concern is the soft top though.
Just a foam cannon and a moderately soft brush will clean dirt out of the top really nicely. You can use some plastic polish on the windows if they are hazy, but be careful not to overwork them
If you check out the link I put on the words piston skirt - DeXJ offers a pre-assembled piston and rod set which you can use to expedite the repair. Otherwise you will need to have a machine shop disassemble and reassemble your rods/pistons/wrist pins. The rod end needs to be heated a certain amount to allow the wrist pin to pass through.
I also missed earlier that you have an '00. The early 0331 non-TUPY heads are prone to cracking between Cylinder 3 and 4 which results in running conditions similar to a blown head gasket, but head replacement is needed to resolve that. They can do a magnetic flux test to find these cracks as they're sometimes not visible to the eye.
You might also pay close attention when you remove the plugs. If the #3 or #4 looks steam cleaned, you'll want to look at that head crack issue more closely. If you have a boroscope, you might also take a look at the top of the cylinders and back up at the valves with that. However the piston skirt issue you'd really only have a chance of seeing that from the underside.
Thank you even though I have no idea what a foam cannon is, but it sounds like a lot of fun.
Okay got it and saved that link. Any idea what the model number of that Edelbrock head is?
And also which part of this is the "piston skirt"? I'm attaching an image from the site you sent me to.
Dawn dish liquid and a soft brush. If it's dried on mud, I use Simple Green. I wash mine at the carwash.
He will be installing new bearings when he does the pistons,he can get them from Dex if it is a non tupy head,throw the head away,do not spend a dime on it.looks like a cool jeep,I love that red.
Edelbrock Performer Cylinder Heads 50169
^^^^
This is the assembled version of the Edelbrock head for the TJ. For your application you want it with valves and springs installed. It is a direct bolt on to the block. The reason you'd want this is that it is a +25hp bolt on. You might also consider 1.7 roller rockers to get a little more valve lift and about +9hp with a stock cam for $550.
You will need to have the early TJ 6-1 header OR a header instead the 2 piece stock exhaust manifold logs of the late TJs. I'm not sure which exhaust the 2000s got. Late manifold logs on the right below. My compatible headers left. I don't have an Eddlebrock head yet and could possibly end up go a different ported head route.
The newer style horseshoe intake is needed with the Edelbrock head, but I believe all 0331 heads have this. This is what the later intake looks like (air filter intake pipe removed)
Regarding the piston skirt, you can see the good example of a broken one above, but they could also just be badly cracked and making that noise. With the oil pan and girdle removed, you can see up into the back of the pistons. I took these while replacing the rear main seal. You need a torque wrench to reinstall the girdle.
^^^^
This is the assembled version of the Edelbrock head for the TJ. For your application you want it with valves and springs installed. It is a direct bolt on to the block. The reason you'd want this is that it is a +25hp bolt on. You might also consider 1.7 roller rockers to get a little more valve lift and about +9hp with a stock cam for $550.
You will need to have the early TJ 6-1 header OR a header instead the 2 piece stock exhaust manifold logs of the late TJs. I'm not sure which exhaust the 2000s got. Late manifold logs on the right below. My compatible headers left. I don't have an Eddlebrock head yet and could possibly end up go a different ported head route.
The newer style horseshoe intake is needed with the Edelbrock head, but I believe all 0331 heads have this. This is what the later intake looks like (air filter intake pipe removed)
Regarding the piston skirt, you can see the good example of a broken one above, but they could also just be badly cracked and making that noise. With the oil pan and girdle removed, you can see up into the back of the pistons. I took these while replacing the rear main seal. You need a torque wrench to reinstall the girdle.
This.
I paid 3600 four years ago, back when these things were very expensive, for a rust free 2002 Apex from florida. Absolutely beautiful condition rust wise. Intereor seats were junk, motor was rapping, and the transmission was pouring fluid, but, rust free. At that price you can't lose unless you have to pay someone to do the work. I found a motor for $150 and a trans for $100 (both lucky, admittedly), dressed em' a bit, and tossed em in and now its registered and running down the road.
You really can't lose at that price if it's truly rust free. Even today, you could likely sell it for $3k up here (northeast) if its as good as it appears.
Congrats, and have fun!
By the way, I pulled the oil pan off the motor i pulled out, and like most of these it seems, it has broken piston skirts. It's very likely what's going on with yours.
I’d give 2,200 for the paint off of it - we have one in Cullman with aluminum wheels- gorgeous
Remove the oil cap look straight down. If you see antifreeze bubbling, cracked head. If you see TUPY, the head has been replaced with the later version and a cracked head is less likely.
Go to the Resources section of this forum and download the Factory Service Manual, FSM, for your year.
If the crank and rod bearings are shot, they can be replaced from below in the Jeep. The procedure is in the FSM.
Go to the Resources section of this forum and download the Factory Service Manual, FSM, for your year.
If the crank and rod bearings are shot, they can be replaced from below in the Jeep. The procedure is in the FSM.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
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I drilled mine just behind the front lower control arm mount and just in front of the rear lower control arm mount. I went with a 3/8” hole if I remember correctly. Others have done bigger, up to 3/4” I think. I used one of those deburring tools I got on Amazon to clean up the edges of the holes and sprayed them with ACE rust spot satin paint.
I love Dawn and Simple Green! I used to race gokarts and Simple Green is the sht!! lol
Thanks man. And it's not a TUPY head, however I did see pics of a TUPY head last night and the word TUPY was stamped under the valve cover which we wouldn't be able to see without taking the cover off.
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