Just an update, still bone dry after a year!
Regarding oil, I'm using 10w-30 Castrol high mileage semi synthetic oil. So far, so good.
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What oil pan gasket did you use? Thanks
Rear Main Seal SOLVED - Additional Tips, Tricks, Thoughts and Theories
- Thread starter Jeep05tj
- Start date
What oil pan gasket did you use? Thanks
I know you’re not asking me, but mine is bone dry and I used the fel-pro gasket. Ever since covid, I believe fel-pro may have switched where they produced the gasket, and so many if not all of them are gray now. People used to swear by the old blue one, so I heard some skepticism about the new gray one. All I can say is mine is bone dry after 6 weeks. Not a long time, but any serious problems with the gasket would have allowed a leak by now.
I used the Felpro sump gasket, as it came with the locating dowels and no-one had reported any issues with it.
Just a FYI, my Mopar seal has been holding through two AZ summers that included many road trips in 115*+ heat.
I only use synthetic Redline 5W30 for the turbo, and the seal withstood my ECTs reaching 250* when my water pump failed two summers ago.
Per OP's suggestion, I let the rig sit for 24 hours with the rear raised up (in case it helps).
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Jwhite
Member
When u applied anoreobic sealant is it just the 2 little lines of it all you did? The shop manual has 2 steps for where to apply it but the diagram only shows the 2 lines of it
Rancho LJ
Member
I direct messaged the OP. His reply is below. I followed this thread to a "T" when I did my rear main seal in April. So far it's held up.
"Hi Rancho LJ,
I didn't put any on the cylinder block, just a bit more on the bearing cap to compensate. So it was probably closer to a 5mm bead.
Good luck!
Ps. My RMS is still bone dry to this day
."
Jwhite
Member
I direct messaged the OP. His reply is below. I followed this thread to a "T" when I did my rear main seal in April. So far it's held up.
"Hi Rancho LJ,
I didn't put any on the cylinder block, just a bit more on the bearing cap to compensate. So it was probably closer to a 5mm bead.
Good luck!
Ps. My RMS is still bone dry to this day
Got it. I will just do the same then. Makes sense to only put it on the bearing cap because of gravity. What did you use to clean the upper seal location? I’m worried a blue shop towel will rip as I thread it through
Rancho LJ
Member
In the upper seal seat position, I use the little square cloths for cleaning gun barrels soaked with Free All penetrating oil followed by brake cleaner and compressed air. I used brake cleaner on the sealing surfaces before applying anaerobic sealant.
Rancho LJ
Member
Dan,
I know you're asking the op, but I don't know if he posts here often. He did respond to my DM back in April.
Search for "Crankshaft Seal Package". It may not pop up right away if you search for rear main seal. I originally bought a Felpro gasket and decided to go with the Mopar instead. I'm 99% sure this is the correct part. Since I picked it up from the dealer I don't have a record of it anymore. I think I paid about $80 because needed it quick.
Rancho LJ
Member
Rancho LJ
Member
For what it's worth, the toughest part for me was reattaching the exhaust to the exhaust manifold. You need a super long extension for the back side from underneath. Trying to start the bolt from the bottom while the retaining clip/nut (sorry I don't know what they're called) moved was a p i t a. Make sure you have someone to assist you with that part. They can hang on to that clip from the top side while you start the bolt.
Also, when I dropped my transmission skid plate, there was a bit of rust between the skid plate and frame rails. It was a bit of a surprise since it's a California Jeep with low miles that's always been garaged. I wire wheeled away the rust, refinished it, and I installed it with a couple of half inch washers between each mounting bolt so there's no water retention there.
Also, when I dropped my transmission skid plate, there was a bit of rust between the skid plate and frame rails. It was a bit of a surprise since it's a California Jeep with low miles that's always been garaged. I wire wheeled away the rust, refinished it, and I installed it with a couple of half inch washers between each mounting bolt so there's no water retention there.
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Jwhite
Member
Rancho LJ
Member
Rancho LJ
Member
Yeah... you can use a chopstick or other composite tool that won't scratch the sealing surface or groove to push the seal far enough through to grab the other end with pliers. It would also help to push out the old seal if it's stuck.
Jwhite
Member
Jwhite
Member
That’s nothing. Mine looked way worse when I pulled the skid plate off last summer to replace my transmission mount, install savvy shift linkage and front driveshaft removal. If I was you I’d spray some wool wax or apply grease prior to reinstalling the skid plate
Rancho LJ
Member
No particular reason other than I inherited a few cases of it. It's a good solvent/cleaner that I hoped would remove any build up in the groove and as a lubricant, it helped to push through the cloth along with the old seal.
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