Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Stay away or take a trip to take a look?

I won't touch anything with a "restored" frame. Usually this means it was rusted so bad that safety caps had to be put on. Once it rusts this bad, i won't go near it.

Late to the party, but I've also seen some people simply booger weld these right onto the frame without cutting out the initial rust. Literally just smacking the caps right on top of the rot. I don't go for anything that had frame repairs, but if I did, it'd be with a fairly fine-toothed comb.
 
OK. Didn't mean to offend your sensibilities. I am trying to do things on a tighter budget. If that is beneath you, I understand. It's all relative and all dependent on one's other burdens. Other people have found great deals, and TBH I think $6K is all that thing is worth AFTER the inspection. Not before, although I was certainly trending in that direction thanks to your collective experience.

I might have otherwise purchased it at $9K and felt like an idiot, so not sorry I did that. I'm not without resources, as it would be my fourth car, but it also MUST be an auto because it is not for me but the almost-missus for a country runabout. It would also be the 4th vehicle. Anyway, appreciate your perspective.

I am willing to pay for something I know is decent, and there is no way to tell (other than perhaps among this community here) who would be trustworthy and have a rep they are careful to uphold. I don't hide the ball, but most people do and don't feel bad about it. This guy selling it definitely did, so worth the $250. (Also, I don't see why it would be absurd to send a guy who **suggested I use the service** the report for my own sake.)

Looking at ones a bit more expensive, but won't buy one without some real due diligence if I cannot see them in person.

Maybe people are too sensitive these days.

Not sensitive at all. The old saying ALWAYS holds true, you get what you pay for !!! What do you really expect for under $10,000 ??? Time is money as well. He's a better man then me, he answered your e-mail - I wouldn't have wasted my time. Keep looking for that needle in the hay stack, I do hope you find what your looking for, just remind yourself every time you dump $250 for inspections & waste hours & hours & even days & travel expenses. That money would be better used towards something newer, cleaner, lower miles, in nice condition to start with !
Still hoping for the best for you .................
 
Haven't given up, thanks for the encouragement. I am looking at one tomorrow that is insanely clean and correspondingly expensive, just to see what $15K could buy in the right example. If the silver one on which I had the inspection done doesn't move, I might still make that guy an offer, problems and all. At least I know what I would be getting. But I do see the wisdom in getting something much nicer to begin with.
 
I am looking at one tomorrow that is insanely clean and correspondingly expensive

I've been waiting two days to see what happened. Tomorrow is now called yesterday. :cautious:
waiting.gif
 
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I really like that everyone is actually genuinely interested in my search! It makes me feel good about joining this community.

Update: I have a line on one I am seeing tonight at ~6pm when there is still light and also bringing my headlamp. Government-owned early in its life and super-low mileage, driven only a few thousand miles since by a couple of private owners. Completely stock. Absurdly low miles for a 2006. Soft-top only and spare tire is worthless, but if it checks out, I will have paid cash for it — and I will post pictures soon after!

I was planning to go see the one for ~$15K a bit further away, when I saw this one pop up, which could be that needle in a haystack I have been looking for. Let's see. Otherwise, I will make the drive this weekend to see if the super-clean modded one with 70K is worth it.
 
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Already I need to give the thing an alignment check, as it starts to develop a shudder around 60 mph; will have to figure that out. The third brakelight needs replacing (and rewiring, I think), the spare is as bald as Larry David. The guy cleaned it up for his own use, and put a lot of time and parts into it. The frame is without any rust, the engine is strong. The tranny seems fine, but the center console (except for the aftermarket radio) does not illuminate, which also makes selecting a gear int he 4-speed at night a real issue, especially since the gear-indicator plate is loose and slides back and forth. Body shows well in pictures, but is far from pristine. It was used as an NJ Parks vehicle for 18 years, so was decently maintained mechanically, but the body has little nicks and dents near the rockers. The hood shows tons of divots in the raking light from stuff falling on the hood over time, but can always get another hood. There were two areas on the body that he repaired for rust; one underneath the floor mat on the driver's side and another along the driver's side underneath behind the rocker panel. Decent fixes both. As OHFIVETJ noted, you get what you pay for. But we're happy so far!
 
JK wheels? Make sure the adapters aren't loose

This — and everything else about this TJ — is why I need you guys! I didn't even notice that the wheels were not original. That's how new I am to this. I suspect that the person who bought it before the guy who sold it to me, but could this have something to do with the vibration at higher speeds?

The seller replaced the universal joint in June and had a professional replace the stabilizer shock — although did not have the thing realigned after the U-joint replacement. This is probably the very first thing, in addition to an aftermarket 3rd brake light, that I want to put my attention-to.
 
This — and everything else about this TJ — is why I need you guys! I didn't even notice that the wheels were not original. That's how new I am to this. I suspect that the person who bought it before the guy who sold it to me, but could this have something to do with the vibration at higher speeds?

The seller replaced the universal joint in June and had a professional replace the stabilizer shock — although did not have the thing realigned after the U-joint replacement. This is probably the very first thing, in addition to an aftermarket 3rd brake light, that I want to put my attention-to.

You can align it yourself in under 15 minutes with a tape measure. It will be as good as any shop that's ripping you off for $80 to set the toe.
p.s. My tires today, after my DIY alignment 8 years and over 35,000 miles ago. Sharp edges but starting to crack from old age (just like me). 🤫 I need to replace them by Christmas.
Rubi 10 16 2025 tire.jpg
 
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could this have something to do with the vibration at higher speeds?

Possibly,or tire balance.Take the wheels off and check the nuts hidden behind the wheel. If they are loose the whole wheel could fly off.

Better yet put some stock tj wheels on it. There is a reason some shops won’t touch wheel adapters for liability reasons.
 
Possibly,or tire balance.Take the wheels off and check the nuts hidden behind the wheel. If they are loose the whole wheel could fly off.

Better yet put some stock tj wheels on it. There is a reason some shops won’t touch wheel adapters for liability reasons.

Yup my advice would be ditch the adapters and JK wheels altogether for some stock wheels or wheels with the correct bolt pattern.
 
Better yet put some stock tj wheels on it. There is a reason some shops won’t touch wheel adapters for liability reasons.

Yup my advice would be ditch the adapters and JK wheels altogether for some stock wheels or wheels with the correct bolt pattern.

Nothing wrong with adapters or JK wheels on a TJ. I've had both with zero issues. Most "tire shops" hire kids that were fired from McDonalds (or crossed the border illegally) today. That's why they don't want the liability. 🤫
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator