The modern world…
I need to up my computer knowledge/skills. This sort of thing and ECM/TCM tuning are on my short list.
Sab-a-dab-a-doo! The back-country LJ build has officially started
- Thread starter sab
- Start date
The modern world…
I need to up my computer knowledge/skills. This sort of thing and ECM/TCM tuning are on my short list.
Not much in the way of build action this weekend. I spent all day Saturday at a friend's house replacing decking on a porch and re-installing a pre-framed door in a wooden shed that was purchased as pre-built shed. The service door was sticking because it was out-of-square. When we pulled the trim off, the opening was about 3" wider and 2" taller than the door frame, and there wasn't a single shim used to install the door! It was simply floating in the opening. No wonder it was sticking. It never ceases to amaze me what a poor state of skilled trades we have here in the USA. Sad, just sad. 
After properly shimming it, it closed like butta!
Today, I did some weld repair on the steel fan shroud for a different friend's 60s-era VW Beetle. It was cracking and needed some TLC. The 60-year-old 28-gauge steel was really fun to weld! While I was making that repair, he was bead-blasting a bunch of parts for the Beetle. He had more patience and smarts than I do, and he actually got the new-ish bead blaster working perfectly - something that I hadn't yet accomplished. That's one thing to tick off my long to-do list!
After finishing that project, I finally did a little work on the LJ. I finished the SwitchPro switch panel installation above the rear-view mirror:
All those brackets that SendCutSend made for me are due for arrival on Tuesday, so I expect to make more progress next weekend. Stay tuned!
After properly shimming it, it closed like butta!Today, I did some weld repair on the steel fan shroud for a different friend's 60s-era VW Beetle. It was cracking and needed some TLC. The 60-year-old 28-gauge steel was really fun to weld! While I was making that repair, he was bead-blasting a bunch of parts for the Beetle. He had more patience and smarts than I do, and he actually got the new-ish bead blaster working perfectly - something that I hadn't yet accomplished. That's one thing to tick off my long to-do list!
After finishing that project, I finally did a little work on the LJ. I finished the SwitchPro switch panel installation above the rear-view mirror:
All those brackets that SendCutSend made for me are due for arrival on Tuesday, so I expect to make more progress next weekend. Stay tuned!
The SendCutSend order arrived today:
Everything looks good, with one exception. The long, narrow bracket at the left side and in the center (there are two of them) needs some tweaking. The way it's double-bent, they couldn't quite get 90° on the second bend because I didn't put a radius on the corner to match the bend radius. I'm not quite sure how I'm going to fix that, but I'm not worried. I'll figure something out.
And I decided to be fickle. Even though the MorRyde kit is practically new, I decided to go a different route (thanks, @Fluxor!):
I also have a tailgate skin and valance on order to round out the rear-end change. I decided to go this route because I think I can save a few pounds based on the approximate weights Klay gave me for his awesome stuff. I can't say enough good about Klay's parts and his packaging - top notch! Klay, are those hinges polished? If not, how'd you get such a fine surface finish on it? I may even try lightening the tire carrier a bit, if I can figure out how to cut lightening holes in the stainless without making it look ugly.
Stay tuned!
To see the start of the hinge installation, see Post #756.
Everything looks good, with one exception. The long, narrow bracket at the left side and in the center (there are two of them) needs some tweaking. The way it's double-bent, they couldn't quite get 90° on the second bend because I didn't put a radius on the corner to match the bend radius. I'm not quite sure how I'm going to fix that, but I'm not worried. I'll figure something out.
And I decided to be fickle. Even though the MorRyde kit is practically new, I decided to go a different route (thanks, @Fluxor!):
I also have a tailgate skin and valance on order to round out the rear-end change. I decided to go this route because I think I can save a few pounds based on the approximate weights Klay gave me for his awesome stuff. I can't say enough good about Klay's parts and his packaging - top notch! Klay, are those hinges polished? If not, how'd you get such a fine surface finish on it? I may even try lightening the tire carrier a bit, if I can figure out how to cut lightening holes in the stainless without making it look ugly.
Stay tuned!
To see the start of the hinge installation, see Post #756.
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Glad your digging the parts. The machine shop does what I call "sorta polish". They clean off the lubricant and hit them with a buffing pad for "clean up". The stainless is hard and does not work like standard P.O. steel. If you start cutting on it lube it up, go slow and make sure everything is SHARP.
The FluxOR tailgate valance panel arrived today:
And I was able to use a body saw to trim the SendCutSend piece with the bend angle slightly under 90°, and as soon as I did, it sprung to a perfect 90° bend! More work this weekend - stay tuned!
And I was able to use a body saw to trim the SendCutSend piece with the bend angle slightly under 90°, and as soon as I did, it sprung to a perfect 90° bend! More work this weekend - stay tuned!
To explain more, the piece has two 90° bends, and early contact was made, preventing a full 90° bend. I cut the tail with a body saw along the bottom, and there was enough spring in the bend that as soon as I did that, it sprung to a perfect 90° bend:
I still have to weld along the bottom, following the red line, and my unfortunately, my TIG skills are horrible. I'm pretty sure I can make an adequate weld, but it's gonna be ugly! Stay tuned...
I test fit the five brackets recently received from SendCutSend today. First, I installed two nutserts for the bracket to mount the Switch-Pros control box and the ARB CKSA12 locker compressor on the driver-side fender. Fits like a glove:
And with the Switch-Pros control box and ARB locker compressor installed:
Next, I set up to drill holes for the nutserts to hold the bracket to mount an ARB breather for the rear differential inside the driver fender well in front of the taillight:
Just drilling those holes was a small project. A jobber-length drill bit in my M12 right-angle drill was too long, so I broke out the Vevor bit sharpener that Jeff turned me onto (thanks, @NashvilleTJ!) and made a shorter bit to get the job done. Here's the breather installed:
Next, I test fit the bracket to mount a manifold and ARB breather for the transmission, transfer case, and front differential using the screws from the new electrical bulkhead connector I just mounted on the firewall:
Next up was the bracket to mount a water- and oil-separator for the York compressor and a manifold above the ABS tray on the driver side:
Here it is with the manifold assembly mounted:
And finally, I test fit the bracket for the Switch-Pros control box fuse behind the PCM:
And I designed another bracket for SendCutSend today. Since I've decided to switch to Fluxor's hinges, my old GMRS antenna bracket, which sat on top my MorRyde top hinge, no longer works. Keeping the same idea, I designed a bracket to sit on top the top Fluxor hinge. It's held on with the hinge's pivot screw, just like the old one:
It'll be cut from .125" 7075-T6 aluminum, and I'm going to try their powder-coating service. It'll be matte black.
Lastly, I started putting -8 AN fittings on the hose I cut to go from the York compressor to the water- and oil-separator shown above. I got one end on easy-peasy, but with my tank of patience below the E mark for the day, I gave up on the second after struggling for about 30 minutes on it. Tomorrow's another day.
Speaking of tomorrow, I still have to weld the bracket for the manifold assembly, and I'm going to weld some flange nuts on the front breather bracket to make it easier to install. Then, I'll bead blast all those brackets and paint them black. And I have to get the pesky AN fitting on the hose, yet, too.
I've also been mulling some changes to Fluxor's tire carrier to lighten it up as I alluded to in an earlier post. And I found that the pivot screw head for the top hinge hits my Savvy taillight, so I've got an idea to fix that issue, too. I'm going to flip the screws so they go in from the top, and then I'm going to install Keenserts in the bottom of the hinges so a nut isn't needed. Once I get those mods done, I can mount the hinges, and I'm going to use a long piece of drill rod to get the pivots coaxially aligned. I did that with the MorRyde, and the tailgate was smooooooth to open.
Lots to do! Stay tuned!
To see my weight-saving modifications to Fluxor's tire carrier, see Post #766.
And with the Switch-Pros control box and ARB locker compressor installed:
Next, I set up to drill holes for the nutserts to hold the bracket to mount an ARB breather for the rear differential inside the driver fender well in front of the taillight:
Just drilling those holes was a small project. A jobber-length drill bit in my M12 right-angle drill was too long, so I broke out the Vevor bit sharpener that Jeff turned me onto (thanks, @NashvilleTJ!) and made a shorter bit to get the job done. Here's the breather installed:
Next, I test fit the bracket to mount a manifold and ARB breather for the transmission, transfer case, and front differential using the screws from the new electrical bulkhead connector I just mounted on the firewall:
Next up was the bracket to mount a water- and oil-separator for the York compressor and a manifold above the ABS tray on the driver side:
Here it is with the manifold assembly mounted:
And finally, I test fit the bracket for the Switch-Pros control box fuse behind the PCM:
And I designed another bracket for SendCutSend today. Since I've decided to switch to Fluxor's hinges, my old GMRS antenna bracket, which sat on top my MorRyde top hinge, no longer works. Keeping the same idea, I designed a bracket to sit on top the top Fluxor hinge. It's held on with the hinge's pivot screw, just like the old one:
It'll be cut from .125" 7075-T6 aluminum, and I'm going to try their powder-coating service. It'll be matte black.
Lastly, I started putting -8 AN fittings on the hose I cut to go from the York compressor to the water- and oil-separator shown above. I got one end on easy-peasy, but with my tank of patience below the E mark for the day, I gave up on the second after struggling for about 30 minutes on it. Tomorrow's another day.
Speaking of tomorrow, I still have to weld the bracket for the manifold assembly, and I'm going to weld some flange nuts on the front breather bracket to make it easier to install. Then, I'll bead blast all those brackets and paint them black. And I have to get the pesky AN fitting on the hose, yet, too.
I've also been mulling some changes to Fluxor's tire carrier to lighten it up as I alluded to in an earlier post. And I found that the pivot screw head for the top hinge hits my Savvy taillight, so I've got an idea to fix that issue, too. I'm going to flip the screws so they go in from the top, and then I'm going to install Keenserts in the bottom of the hinges so a nut isn't needed. Once I get those mods done, I can mount the hinges, and I'm going to use a long piece of drill rod to get the pivots coaxially aligned. I did that with the MorRyde, and the tailgate was smooooooth to open.
Lots to do! Stay tuned!
To see my weight-saving modifications to Fluxor's tire carrier, see Post #766.
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Well, I have the front (not installed, yet), but the rear is just a few ideas bouncing around in the noggin'. Steve makes one for the JK, but for a TJ, it'll be custom, but that's months down the road for me...
Yeah, I talked to him about a rear for mine a couple years ago. He’s only a few minutes away so should be able to get something figured out someday.
Today's lesson: Never underestimate how a new day can bring the winds of fortune with it! It's taken me decades to learn how to give up and wait for the sun to disappear and reappear to right the ship.
That hose end that was giving me absolute fits last night took just 3 minutes to install this morning. I was just worn out after a long day of work in the shop. Here it is installed on the outlet of the York compressor this morning:
And here's the other end, where the separator and manifold will be located:
That end was done pretty easily last night - go figure! You can tell it went easier because I didn't butcher the anodizing like I did on the other end.
I spent the rest of the morning planning the changes to the Fluxor tire carrier. I haven't touched the brackets that need welding, bead blasting, and painting, yet. That's on the afternoon agenda, but I may not get to all of it. Stay tuned!
That hose end that was giving me absolute fits last night took just 3 minutes to install this morning. I was just worn out after a long day of work in the shop. Here it is installed on the outlet of the York compressor this morning:
And here's the other end, where the separator and manifold will be located:
That end was done pretty easily last night - go figure! You can tell it went easier because I didn't butcher the anodizing like I did on the other end.
I spent the rest of the morning planning the changes to the Fluxor tire carrier. I haven't touched the brackets that need welding, bead blasting, and painting, yet. That's on the afternoon agenda, but I may not get to all of it. Stay tuned!
I started the day continuing with the brackets I've been making. I welded the brackets that needed welding, and then bead blasted, primed, and painted them. I struggled with plumbing the manifold for the York OBA system (lots of leaks!) I lost my digital protractor somewhere in my shop (ugh, I hate when that happens) and had my wife pick one up at Home Depot while she was in town because I needed it, and two hours of scouring didn't turn it up. So most of the day was spent struggling, and it was frustrating!
About mid-afternoon, I decided to start my mods on Fluxor's hinge/spare tire carrier kit. My Savvy taillights interfered with the hinge pivot screws, so I had ordered some Keenserts to install in the bottom of the hinge to eliminate the nut on the pivot screws. I started by drilling out the bottom holes:
That was done in 1/32" steps up to 33/64", the tap size for the thicker 3/8"-16 Keensert. After getting the holes to 33/64", I tapped them for 9/16"-12:
To install the Keenserts, I clamped a piece of aluminum to the inside of the hinge to act as a positive stop for the Keensert and applied some red Permatex thread-locker:
Next, I screwed it in by hand:
Finally, I used the special tool to drive the stakes with a hammer:
The finished product:
Then, I mounted the hinge bases, and installed the Savvy taillight. Continuing the theme of "I should have just stayed in bed today," I discovered that it wasn't just the nut on the pivot screw that interfered with the Savvy taillight. The housing itself has an interference problem:
In that picture, only one of the housing screws is holding the taillight. The other two won't fit. I'll have to remove some material on the hinge base in order to fix this issue. Stay tuned!
About mid-afternoon, I decided to start my mods on Fluxor's hinge/spare tire carrier kit. My Savvy taillights interfered with the hinge pivot screws, so I had ordered some Keenserts to install in the bottom of the hinge to eliminate the nut on the pivot screws. I started by drilling out the bottom holes:
That was done in 1/32" steps up to 33/64", the tap size for the thicker 3/8"-16 Keensert. After getting the holes to 33/64", I tapped them for 9/16"-12:
To install the Keenserts, I clamped a piece of aluminum to the inside of the hinge to act as a positive stop for the Keensert and applied some red Permatex thread-locker:
Next, I screwed it in by hand:
Finally, I used the special tool to drive the stakes with a hammer:
The finished product:
Then, I mounted the hinge bases, and installed the Savvy taillight. Continuing the theme of "I should have just stayed in bed today," I discovered that it wasn't just the nut on the pivot screw that interfered with the Savvy taillight. The housing itself has an interference problem:
In that picture, only one of the housing screws is holding the taillight. The other two won't fit. I'll have to remove some material on the hinge base in order to fix this issue. Stay tuned!
You got that right! She's my right-hand gal. An excellent life-partner.
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