Part of the reason i've gone back and forth on pulling the trigger. Ultimately, avoiding spending another $1,500-$2,000 on another set of wheels will likely win out.
Front lockouts or Yukon spin free hubs discussion
- Thread starter John Middleton
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Part of the reason i've gone back and forth on pulling the trigger. Ultimately, avoiding spending another $1,500-$2,000 on another set of wheels will likely win out.
That is what I used (YA-WU-08), coupled with Black Magic 16" brakes and 16x8" 5x5.5 wheels with 4" backspacing. No spacers.
As soon as I get the kit, and after checking whether Yukon sent any wrong or missing parts, I’ll take the same picture to show the current hub size and the brand of the locking hubs they shipped (hopefully not the red AVM).
I have received the YA WU-07 small hub kit today. Purchased on Amazon, shipped from Quick Performance.
Just an update on Yukon's quality control:
- It came with AVM 465XP Hubs
- It came with Timken bearings
- The added with will be 0.91 Inch
- YES, IT CAME WITH MISSING PARTS!!!! (1 missing seal). And also there is one part i can´t identify (The small brass bushing in the middle of the bearings blister)
The missing one is the rubber axle seal with this numbers:
TTO P043 722109 4
Considering i have imported the kit to my country, i think it will be easy and cheaper to buy the missing seal locally. As i can see, it's a common axle seal.
Anyone knows where goes the small bushing in the middle of the blister (7th pic)?
Regards.
Mariano
Order the Spicer 706527X seal kit which has the thrust washer, V seal, slinger seal, and inner spindle bearing.
https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/706527x-dana-44-spindle-bearing-seal-kit/?sku=706527X&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21518390790&gbraid=0AAAAADu5xBsxh4la642IrE1O_VjrFEMNA&gclid=CjwKCAjw89jGBhB0EiwA2o1OnwSE6zTk-uY__412JaXMInXHnE-Ax78GYX61mtMBSfRkjvd0ZDvuPhoCZg0QAvD_BwE
The bronze bushing is for the vacuum disconnect on the YJ front axle. Not used on a TJ.
Curious if others with the small hub kit have had issues with the driver side jam nuts backing out. If so, what have you done about it? It makes sense that it happens on the driver side, given the counterclockwise wheel spin, but I can't get more that 5 to 7K miles out of it before having to go in and re-tighten them. After pre-loading the bearing, I've tried to tighten the jam nuts against each other as much as possible, yet they still come loose. Here's what happened to the outer bearing at 7500 miles!
What torque value are you using and how are you doing it?
Warn's version was to tighten the inner to 50 ft. lbs. and then back it off until it was loose. Then you want to tighten the inner (the one with the little peg for the washer holes) to between 1 and 5 ft. lbs. That is typically about as tight as you can turn the spindle nut socket by hand. After that, install the washer and make sure you get the peg in a hole. If you are using Yukon's crap version, buy some Spicers. Then tighten the outer nut to 140ish ft. lbs. We have never had a single instance of them coming loose after doing it that way.
The other thing to watch for is make sure the races are bottomed out in the seats by using the inspection slots to visually check.
Well, there is my problem. I'm using the Yukon crap and my torque number for the outer jam nut is not even close to 140. I'm doing 45 on the inner nut and 90 on the outer. I'm not 100% sure where those numbers came from, but it would have either been from Yukon or the place I bought the kit from. As always, thanks!
45 on the inner is blowing up the bearings. Final preload on the bearing needs to be around 5 ft. lbs. or less which happens when you tighten the outer. The V threads are inherently sloppy so when you tighten the outer, even if the inner is 0, it will go up slightly due to the slop in the threads. More than 0, less than 5 is what several discussions with Matt Bailey at Warn taught me.
Greased bearings in this type of application don't handle much preload. Very much unlike oiled bearings in a diff which you can preload the crap out of.
I did some searching and found the Spicer spindle nut set, which I'll order and replace the Yukon supplied parts. As always, very, very helpful and appreciated!
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dana,28068X,spindle+nut,1616
I believe Yukon copied Mile Marker's method or similar which is to torque to X and then back it off by 90 degrees for the inner and then do the washer and outer. I've never been a fan and much prefer to know what we are trying to accomplish so I have a better understanding of how to get that result.
Hello, just to know, what's wrong with the Yukon's nuts?. I have both sets, the nuts and washer with holes provided in the Yukon kit and also the AVM locking hubs came with a set of nuts and washers.
Which one i should use?, or better order a Spicer set?
The AVM looks like a better set. Hit the edge of all the pieces with a file to see if they are hardened. If they are, use those.
To answer the question, the problem with Yukon is consistency. They apparently delved into making their own spindle nut sets or found a supplier who didn't quite understand the task. The hole pattern is offset from the tang so you can flip it around and not have to move the inner nut too far. Someone didn't get that memo.
Wheel studs need a shoulder right under the head that registers in the hole in the rotor. Missed that memo as well.
The issue is you don't always know what you might wind up with as far as quality.
Wheel studs need a shoulder right under the head that registers in the hole in the rotor. Missed that memo as well.
The issue is you don't always know what you might wind up with as far as quality.
I just ordered some spares. I can send a couple out on Monday if you want to replace them when you find the right ones.
You and anyone else dealing with this needs to understand that Yukon has their part number for these messed up. I was helping someone who said that they gave him a very different number because it is something they sell from their own design or similar. I already don't trust them, I don't want to find out the hard way that also can't make seals. The CR number is the same one that Warn designed the kits to use.
For those paying attention, here's the difference between the Yukon supplied spindle nut kit and the Spicer kit. The difference in material quality and thickness (at least for the spindle nuts) is noticeable. I've swapped both sides by tightening the inner nut to 45 ft lbs, then backing that off to 5 ft lbs. The outer was torqued to 140 ft lbs. If this isn't correct, I'm sure I'll be corrected!
Spicer on the right, Yukon on the left.
Spicer on the right, Yukon on the left.
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My current LJ tire/wheel setup, with 35's and beadlocks, weighs in at 107 pounds each. While I'm light on the skinny pedal, I can't help but worry that I'm pushing the limits for the small hub kit (YA WU-07).
FWIW, I have a small kit on the TJ, running a 31" tire, that has been wheeled in very tough conditions and proven to be ultra reliable. It however is much smaller and lighter, with no beadlocks.
Since a "next" purchase is a BBK, I need to make a decision about whether to stick with the small hub kit or go with the larger YA WU-08 kit. Am I overthinking this or is there merit to my concern?
FWIW, I have a small kit on the TJ, running a 31" tire, that has been wheeled in very tough conditions and proven to be ultra reliable. It however is much smaller and lighter, with no beadlocks.
Since a "next" purchase is a BBK, I need to make a decision about whether to stick with the small hub kit or go with the larger YA WU-08 kit. Am I overthinking this or is there merit to my concern?
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