Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Rock sliders

If this all comes down to preference, style, and location, then maybe you can explain how a wide swath of the country somehow benefits from a bunch of bulky protusions that necessetate the rig getting caught on the terrain with greater frequency. That is the argument being made by some.

This has been a fun intro to the forum :).

The whole point is that they are sacrificial and can take the hit instead of the body sheetmetal (well, unlike the MBs I posted a shot of earlier). You could try to apply the same logic to skid plates, but I'd sure rather beat the shit out of a steel plate than piss trans fluid down the trail, even if it costs a couple inches of clearance.
 
This has been a fun intro to the forum :).

The whole point is that they are sacrificial and can take the hit instead of the body sheetmetal (well, unlike the MBs I posted a shot of earlier). You could try to apply the same logic to skid plates, but I'd sure rather beat the shit out of a steel plate than piss trans fluid down the trail, even if it costs a couple inches of clearance.

You seem to think I am arguing against skid plates and body protection. Quit doing that.
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Ahhh, yes agreed, I got twisted between JMT's original response and your caution against large tubes.

Where are your from, I like those.

Now explain how larger bulkier tube rails would be a benefit somewhere else.
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We went there for a company lunch a while back. I found it to be a very strange place. Chili's/Applebee's with bored, dead eyed waitresses wearing bikinis.

I'm new here so you guys will have to coach me. Is the proper WTJF response to this "You were looking about 12" too high if you were seeing their eyes"?
 
Bullshit. I stuff my Genrights into trees, and the occasional rock, on purpose then pivot around the obstacle with the rear tire. The DOM tube has worked great
Well, not for nothing, but the impetus behind my design of the Savvy rock rails being a base with an outer skin that could be made in several different ways including a tube step was due to all of the destroyed tubes we see in JV from pivoting around rocks. It never made sense to me that one should have to cut off tubes and weld on new ones when they get bent. It also made a lot of sense to me to be able to tear up a slider and then quickly bolt on a pretty set for the times when you didn't want so much ugly on your rig. Then bolt the ugly set back on for the trail. The benefit of having something considerably stronger than a single layer of 3/16" steel shouldn't be overlooked.

If it isn't clear, there is no arbitrary stuffing of sliders into rocks in JV, it will happen regardless of your attempts to do or not do it.
 
Idk, there's times where a bar will hang you up and other times that little bit of stick out can keep you off your windshield frame. I don't think it's a black and white deal.

@Kelson I've seen a lot of Genright skids hold up well in Washington from Naches to the Busywild to Evans Creek. Good luck with whatever you decide.
There are several spots in JV climbing waterfalls where the folks with tubes may as well just hook up the winch at the bottom to start. The front edge of the tube steps hook under a rock that sticks over into the opening at the top and if you try to power through the stuck, you will break something.
 
it’s all based on preference, wheeling style, and location

Are you sure about that?
There should be a small full length rub rail somewhere under the door opening for a few reasons. Just as long as it isn't excessively large and obtrusive like the tube rails we often see.

What width sticking out to the side should the full length rub rail be ideally and where in relation to the backing plate? Is 1” width a good width? What material is best in this application? Is this an aluminum or steel rub rail? I would think stainless steel if we’re using it for actually rubbing like the rub rail on the tub that Savvy used to make. Wasn’t @rasband along the top of his slider?
 
Are you sure about that?


What width sticking out to the side should the full length rub rail be ideally and where in relation to the backing plate? Is 1” width a good width? What material is best in this application? Is this an aluminum or steel rub rail? I would think stainless steel if we’re using it for actually rubbing like the rub rail on the tub that Savvy used to make. Wasn’t @rasband along the top of his slider?

When I eventually build my set, the rub rail will be like this and made of steel.
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Is the purpose to also provide more rigidity to the slider in addition to the purpose of being a rub rail?

Structural rigidity for the entire slider.

A barrier to keep rocks and trees out of the door opening.

And a small rub rail to help keep rocks and trees away from the body above.

All of that without being obtrusively large and causing it's own impedance to keeping tires on the ground or stopping forward motion.
 
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Structural rigidity for the entire slider.

A barrier to keep rocks and trees out of the door opening.

And a small rub rail to help keep rocks and trees away from the body above.

All of that without being obtrusively large and causing it's own impedance to keeping tires on the ground or stopping forward motion.

Man I love it!
 
Man I love it!

Now try to get someone in the magical South or the mysterious PNW explain how having something bigger and bulkier and heavier is beneficial in their bizarro world.
 
Now try to get someone in the magical South or the mysterious PNW explain how having something bigger and bulkier and heavier is beneficial in their bizarro world.

I have already seen a good attempt so I will leave it at that!
 
I have seen attempts. But I have not seen a good attempt.

I thought yours was pretty good, just not successful, yet.

It’s like a debate. No one changes their mind until later when they think they came up with the idea.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator