Hey yall! I have a 2005 Jeep wrangler won’t crank won’t start, no noise. Dash lights and headlights come on normally, check engine light is flashing. Was starting perfectly fine prior. I towed to mechanic and they recommended replacing the ignition lock cylinder but they’re not sure that’s the issue. Per what I’ve researched it seems like the ignition switch actuator pin might be the culprit, but the mechanic swears that’s not the problem but also admits they didn’t check the pin, and won’t check the pin. What are y’all’s thoughts?
No crank no start good battery & starter
- Thread starter LiliaHope
- Start date
Given that the dash lights and headlights are functioning, it definitely doesn't seem likely that it's a battery or starter issue. A flashing check engine light can be indicative of a more specific problem, possibly related to the ignition system. Have you scanned it and retrieved codes?
If the mechanic is suggesting the ignition lock cylinder but also admits they didn’t check the ignition switch actuator pin, it might be worth pushing them to take a closer look at that pin. It’s not uncommon for them to wear out or misalign, which can prevent the ignition switch from engaging properly.
Have you checked other connections such as the battery terminals or ground wires? Sometimes loose or corroded connections can lead to similar symptoms. If everything looks good, you might consider getting a second opinion from another mechanic who can take a look at the actuator pin or any other potential issues. Good luck, and keep us posted on what you find!
Tested battery, starter, and alternator all are good (all were replaced about 2 years ago). Battery connectors also replaced about 1 year ago. The OBD connector is broken, so unable to pull codes - unfortunately. I’m going back & forth with them to convince them to just look at the actuator pin before replacing the ignition lock cylinder. They said they think the internal part of the cylinder is “binding up or coming apart”, but they haven’t pulled it yet.
Manual or Automatic?
If everything works (radio, lights, gauges, dash lights), and the key will turn to all it's positions normally, it's most likely going to be:
Clutch pedal switch for MT.
Neutral safety switch for AT.
Ignition pin actuator.
You're the one paying them, remind them of that. If not, find a new mechanic.
Just sayin'
I have over 280K mi on my YJ and on my TJ. Neither has had a lock cylinder fail. I have worn down one key in ea to the point it would pull out of the cylinder while running. Went and got my unused key, and back to normal. So, made a new key from the unused ones and kept going.
I would be looking for another mechanic.
Codes can be read by turning the key: ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON quickly. Codes will display in the odometer.
I would check for voltage at the signal wire that connects to the starter solenoid, and make sure it’s all connected properly and in good shape.
If you don’t get voltage, I’d check the ASD fuse and relay. If they are good, I’d be looking at the ignition switch or actuator.
When my actuator broke, I could no longer feel tension when turning to key to start. If you feel tension the actuator should be doing its job.
Hopefully you don’t need to go chasing wires becuase shops won’t be cheap.
If you don’t get voltage, I’d check the ASD fuse and relay. If they are good, I’d be looking at the ignition switch or actuator.
When my actuator broke, I could no longer feel tension when turning to key to start. If you feel tension the actuator should be doing its job.
Hopefully you don’t need to go chasing wires becuase shops won’t be cheap.
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The keys are softer than the cylinder, so they wear, not the cylinder.
If you have a key in like new shape, try it. If you don't have a key in good shape, one can be made from the key code. You can't duplicate a worn key at Lowe's etc, as it will be just as "worn."
If you have a key in like new shape, try it. If you don't have a key in good shape, one can be made from the key code. You can't duplicate a worn key at Lowe's etc, as it will be just as "worn."
One final possibility with an 05 is a bad PCM. 05 and 06 PCMs are junk. Only known good fix is a rehosted PCM from wranglerfix. But you'll want to eliminate the other possibilities first, as the PCM is the most expensive of the possible fixes.
Did you run the key code check?
Did you run the key code check?
Is your mechanic a professional or a friend who works on stuff?
I ask because seriously- if a "professional" wants to start replacing parts without actually diagnosing the issue, I'd RUN from there and find a real mechanic.
The very first thing they teach in any mechanics class is to start with the basics.
Check the wiring at the starter to see if power is getting there.
If it's not, backtrack from there.
If it is, clean up all wiring to the starter then try it again.
I cant imagine a professional mechanic jumping right to the key switch.
I ask because seriously- if a "professional" wants to start replacing parts without actually diagnosing the issue, I'd RUN from there and find a real mechanic.
The very first thing they teach in any mechanics class is to start with the basics.
Check the wiring at the starter to see if power is getting there.
If it's not, backtrack from there.
If it is, clean up all wiring to the starter then try it again.
I cant imagine a professional mechanic jumping right to the key switch.
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