Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Rebuilt transmission not shifting out of first gear

Like @hear was saying, try a stall test. You can find your steps here in the manual.

Page 21 - 85 seems to address your issue shortly but I’d follow the testing procedures to be for sure and to determine which of the 5 issues may be the one you are experiencing

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@Christian.mers @hear I completed the stall test, I used these procedures, the stall test did not go over 2000rpms

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@Christian.mers @hear I completed the stall test, I used these procedures, the stall test did not go over 2000rpms

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Hmmm, this is definitely where @hear shines for sure! To me it sounds like the torque converter is the issue and that’s what the this test is really signifying. I would replace that when rebuilding unless I knew 1000% that it was perfect

You’ve replaced and addressed every issue that I could think about regarding this matter. The only known factor is that your rebuilt trans was paired up with the same torque converter that was on the trans before it was rebuilt.

What did you say the reason for rebuilding was??
 
Hmmm, this is definitely where @hear shines for sure! To me it sounds like the torque converter is the issue and that’s what the this test is really signifying. I would replace that when rebuilding unless I knew 1000% that it was perfect

You’ve replaced and addressed every issue that I could think about regarding this matter. The only known factor is that your rebuilt trans was paired up with the same torque converter that was on the trans before it was rebuilt.

What did you say the reason for rebuilding was??

Well, I did have a new torque converter installed along with the rebuild but another thing I was thinking is if they didn’t adjust the band that is on the outside of the transmission who’s to say that they didn’t adjust the band that’s on the inside of the transmission, I adjusted the band on the outside and this allowed me to shift. I just need to figure out if the band on the inside of the transmission when misadjusted, can cause delayed engagement, I agree with that I need to take it to them. It’s part of their procedure anyways. They told me after I install it. I need to bring the jeep in to them so they can look at everything. I already talked to the guy at the shop and he’s saying to bring it on in. I just wanted to see if there was something I could learn or do before I’m out of my daily driver for a couple of days.
 
Thank you For everyone’s feedback, I agree I will take the transmission back to the shop. It’s part of the shops procedure. The shop I went to is called certified transmission and has the best ratings in the north valley of Arizona. They’re super friendly and and he told me once I finish installing the transmission that he wants me to bring the jeep back anyways so he can go over everything. I just wanted to see if there was something I could fix or learn about this situation, before I’m jeepless for a few days
 
I completely understand the daily driver thing. This TJ is my daily and I’m having pretty much the same exact issue as you. I need a new torque converter and to rebuild the transmission, specifically the overrunning clutch all the way at the back. I’ve absolutely been putting it off because it’s my daily so I understand your pain.

You had a good thought thinking about the rear band not being adjusted and I’m sure that was probably something they overlooked. Definitely a shop error and I agree entirely on bringing it into them so they can fix their mistakes. I’m sure they wanted you to bring it in so they could figure out if the bands were adjusted properly and test drive to make sure everything was in order

Sorry I couldn’t help anymore, definetly out of my knowledge range at this point in time. You’re absolutely have to let us know what the shop says and if your issue is resolved
 
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Hmmm, this is definitely where @hear shines for sure! To me it sounds like the torque converter is the issue and that’s what the this test is really signifying. I would replace that when rebuilding unless I knew 1000% that it was perfect

You’ve replaced and addressed every issue that I could think about regarding this matter. The only known factor is that your rebuilt trans was paired up with the same torque converter that was on the trans before it was rebuilt.

What did you say the reason for rebuilding was??

The new rebuild was not paired up with old torque converter, matter of fact, eight months prior to this I had my torque converter replaced because the jeep is old and I wanted to have it replaced along with torque converter seal. When I just got my transmission rebuilt, they made me replace it again so it’s definitely a good torque converter and I made sure when I was installing it that it slipped in to where there was no finger space behind
 
I completely understand the daily driver thing. This TJ is my daily and I’m having pretty much the same exact issue as you. I need a new torque converter and to rebuild the transmission, specifically the overrunning clutch all the way at the back. I’ve absolutely been putting it off because it’s my daily so I understand your pain.

You had a good thought thinking about the rear band not being adjusted and I’m sure that was probably something they overlooked. Definitely a shop error and I agree entirely on bringing it into them so they can fix their mistakes. I’m sure they wanted you to bring it in so they could figure out if the bands were adjusted properly and test drive to make sure everything was in order

Sorry I couldn’t help anymore, definetly out of my knowledge range at this point in time. You’re absolutely have to let us know what the shop says and if your issue is resolved

Most definitely. I will, I use this forum on a daily for the past few years. I’ve been getting all of my information and all of the help I need from this website. And finally, I’ve been trying to deal with this sluggish acceleration issue for the past three days and I just can’t seem to fix anything so I decided to make an account yesterday. I will absolutely respond to this forum to see if it was on them or if there’s still something within my throttle cable or kick down linkage or something along those lines. Thank you @christan.mers
 
You’re absolutely welcome man, the forum is here to help you so feel free to reach out any time and someone will help you for sure.

On side note, where did you find and purchase your Transmission Manual? I’ve been looking here and there but haven’t really sat down to find it yet
 
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You’re absolutely welcome man, the forum is here to help you so feel free to reach out any time and someone will help you for sure.

On side note, where did you find and purchase your Transmission Manual? I’ve been looking here and there but haven’t really sat down to find it yet

I got this exact one on ebay for 90$ seriously has everything you’d ever need to know in it. That why when you sent me that document, I went to that exact page in the book (21-85) and it had like 5 pages about stall testing. It’s a great book, look on eBay

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Thank you For everyone’s feedback, I agree I will take the transmission back to the shop. It’s part of the shops procedure. The shop I went to is called certified transmission and has the best ratings in the north valley of Arizona. They’re super friendly and and he told me once I finish installing the transmission that he wants me to bring the jeep back anyways so he can go over everything. I just wanted to see if there was something I could fix or learn about this situation, before I’m jeepless for a few days

Absolutely best thing to do. You paid for this, let them dial it in.
 
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Absolutely best thing to do. You paid for this, let them dial it in.

So I just found out and four-wheel low the Jeep accelerates absolutely phenomenal as soon as I go to wheel drive it’s like there’s a 50% power loss and RPMs will go up to 1500-2000 before the jeep even moves, another reason why I am being told it could be something within my driveline or transfer case linkage?? @Christian.mers
 
Hmmm, shifting into 4-lo could be masking the issues because it’s giving you a gear reduction from 1:1 to 2.5:1 that you only get in 4-lo. That’s why you probably don’t experience the changes in 2WD or 4-hi. This makes the jeep move forwards and shift through the gears much quicker because it’s practically masking the issues. The torque is being multiplied 2.5 times what it normally is. Which is where the 2.5:1 comes from, every input of 2.5 results in 1 output meaning you’re getting 2.5 times the torque and output from your engine. All that rambling aside, let’s get to what I’m thinking…

The Linkage issue: if your linkage isn’t properly adjusted you may not be all the way into the proper position so you could be pressing the accelerator and it not moving until it catches where it needs to be to start moving. What I’d do is go through the gears on gravel or something that isn’t hard and listen very closely for for delays, unusual clunks or thuds. I’d look at the linkage for loose bolts or bent rods or bad bushings.


The driveline issue: Do you have any vibrations? Jack up your rear (put it in neutral) and see if the rear shaft spins smoothly and listen to any weird noises. Your front diff could be pulling the weight that your rear isn’t? Maybe you have bad u-joints that are binding?
 
Hmmm, shifting into 4-lo could be masking the issues because it’s giving you a gear reduction from 1:1 to 2.5:1 that you only get in 4-lo. That’s why you probably don’t experience the changes in 2WD or 4-hi. This makes the jeep move forwards and shift through the gears much quicker because it’s practically masking the issues. The torque is being multiplied 2.5 times what it normally is. Which is where the 2.5:1 comes from, every input of 2.5 results in 1 output meaning you’re getting 2.5 times the torque and output from your engine. All that rambling aside, let’s get to what I’m thinking…

The Linkage issue: if your linkage isn’t properly adjusted you may not be all the way into the proper position so you could be pressing the accelerator and it not moving until it catches where it needs to be to start moving. What I’d do is go through the gears on gravel or something that isn’t hard and listen very closely for for delays, unusual clunks or thuds. I’d look at the linkage for loose bolts or bent rods or bad bushings.


The driveline issue: Do you have any vibrations? Jack up your rear (put it in neutral) and see if the rear shaft spins smoothly and listen to any weird noises. Your front diff could be pulling the weight that your rear isn’t? Maybe you have bad u-joints that are binding?

Thank you for your input. I’m going to try both of those right now. First I’m going to jack up the rear and look at my rear drive line. I have noticed a little bit of clanking when I’m trying to drive. I thought that could’ve been my control arms or old Springs or something but hearing you say that makes me wanna jack up the rear and look for myself I’ll get back to you here in a bit
 
Hmmm, shifting into 4-lo could be masking the issues because it’s giving you a gear reduction from 1:1 to 2.5:1 that you only get in 4-lo. That’s why you probably don’t experience the changes in 2WD or 4-hi. This makes the jeep move forwards and shift through the gears much quicker because it’s practically masking the issues. The torque is being multiplied 2.5 times what it normally is. Which is where the 2.5:1 comes from, every input of 2.5 results in 1 output meaning you’re getting 2.5 times the torque and output from your engine. All that rambling aside, let’s get to what I’m thinking…

The Linkage issue: if your linkage isn’t properly adjusted you may not be all the way into the proper position so you could be pressing the accelerator and it not moving until it catches where it needs to be to start moving. What I’d do is go through the gears on gravel or something that isn’t hard and listen very closely for for delays, unusual clunks or thuds. I’d look at the linkage for loose bolts or bent rods or bad bushings.


The driveline issue: Do you have any vibrations? Jack up your rear (put it in neutral) and see if the rear shaft spins smoothly and listen to any weird noises. Your front diff could be pulling the weight that your rear isn’t? Maybe you have bad u-joints that are binding?

Hey, I think I definitely just found the issue. I really wish I could post videos and show you a video because a picture won’t do it long story short I jacked up my rear axle and spun the tires clockwise and quickly before the rotation stops, I would rotate the tire counterclockwise, and I can literally hear click click click click click as if something in my transfer case or my transfer case to transmission is slipping
 
Thank you for your input. I’m going to try both of those right now. First I’m going to jack up the rear and look at my rear drive line. I have noticed a little bit of clanking when I’m trying to drive. I thought that could’ve been my control arms or old Springs or something but hearing you say that makes me wanna jack up the rear and look for myself I’ll get back to you here in a bit

That has to be the problem and hence why four-wheel low feels normal I’m going to remove my transfer case and see what the deal is.
 
That has to be the problem and hence why four-wheel low feels normal I’m going to remove my transfer case and see what the deal is.

you can disconnect the t-case linkage from the bar at the t-case and shift by hand. If you happened to have the case apart, it's possible to put the bar on upside down and the the shifter detents end up backwards so you think you're in 4LO when you're in 2HI, and assorted other problems.
 
Couple of questions...did you install the transmission yourself?

If you did, did you flush the cooler in the radiator or replace the radiator and lines for the transmission cooler?

What's your tire size and gear ratio?

-Mac
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator