97 tj shakes a pretty good amount when starting off in 2 hi, almost all the time it's got 4.10 gears with 35s. When it's shifted into 4 hi or 4 low it's perfectly fine starting off. Also I've been having issues with the connection between the control arms and frame mount where the bolts slide back and fourth I keep tightening the bolts but they keep sliding. What should I do?
Jeep shakes when starting off in 2hi
- Thread starter wildtj
- Start date
It sounds like you might be dealing with a couple of different issues here. The shaking when starting off in 2WD could be due to a few factors. Here are a few things to check:
Driveline Alignment: With larger tires and a gear change, the driveline angles can be altered. Make sure your pinion angle is correct. If it's off, it could lead to vibrations under acceleration.
U-Joints: Check the U-joints on your driveshafts. Worn or damaged U-joints can cause vibrations, especially under load.
Tires: Uneven tire wear or imbalance could also contribute to shaking. Make sure all your tires are properly balanced and have even wear.
Control Arm Issues: As for the control arm connection, if the bolts keep sliding back and forth, it may be a sign that the bushings are worn out or damaged. Consider replacing them with new bushings or even upgrading to quality aftermarket control arms if you're looking for improved performance.
Check the Torque Specs: Make sure you're tightening the control arm bolts to the manufacturer’s torque specifications. If the threads are stripped, you may need to replace the bolts or use a thread repair solution like a helicoil.
Control arms are the short adjustable ones, pinion angle is 2 degrees less than degree coming out of transfer case driveshaft is new with new u-joints from Tom woods. Tires are evenly wearing and have been balanced, I'll have to double check torque specs.
I'll have to keep that in mind because I never drove it before I rebuilt it, it had a rusted frame but that's been totally redone.
Pictures might help. Which bolts? What are you torquing them to?
Ar you running an OEM-type driveshaft (2 U-joints) or a DC shaft (3 U-joints)?
I'll have to get a picture when I get home from work, and driveshaft is a sye tom wood l
With an SYE and a DC driveshaft (3 U-joints) the pinion should be in line with the driveshaft or up to about 1° lower.
If you have OEM style control arms, the rear lowers get 150 ft. lbs. and the rear uppers get 55 ft. lbs.
I'll have to check everything again when I get home thank you for the torque specs
Last night I ran it on 4 hi and it did the same thing as 2hi, but didn't in 4 low so I'm thinking it's got to be something with the clutch mechanism
I'm pretty sure the PO of mine had the flywheel turned which is not recommended on out TJ's and I believe it had something to do with it. When I would take off you could feel a stutter as it engaged
That's what it feels like it shutters then hooks up and goes if my pinion was off it would do it even in 4 low and also I would be able to feel a vibration when starting off, accelerating in gear and coasting in gear. The only time when it doesn't do it is when Im releasing the clutch with some higher rpm's from a complete stop.
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