Creaking around transmission after tummy tuck

[Feralkid]

2006 Rubicon, manual transmission

So, I just got around to installing a UCF extra clearance transfer case skid. I'm getting a lot of creaking whenever I accelerate or hit a bump, it sounds like metal on metal as if the transmission or transfer case is rubbing on the trans tunnel but there is plenty of space between the drivetrain and the body, so it's not that. I replaced the muffler and tailpipe pipe because the OEM muffler was rubbing on the skid plate.

I'm honestly stumped. I looked it over and nothing is touching metal on metal.

Do I have to loosen up the engine and trans mount bolts then jack up the drive train and let it resettle?


Here's a list of modifications:

UCF Extra Clearance Skid
OEM trans mount
Savvy Body Lift
MORE Bomb Proof Motor Lift
Savvy Cable Shifter
3" Lift with JKS track bars and Rock Jock arms

 

[Chris]

Doesn't that UCF extra clearance skid eliminate the factory transmission mounts?

 

[Feralkid]

Doesn't that UCF extra clearance skid eliminate the factory transmission mounts?

No, you just need a body lift.
It's the Ultra Clearance skid that requires the Lo-Pro mount.
The one I'm using, Extra Clearance, is the middle of the three options.

 

[Chris]

No, you just need a body lift.
It's the Ultra Clearance skid that requires the Lo-Pro mount.
The one I'm using, Extra Clearance, is the middle of the three options.

Oh okay, that's where I was confused. The Lo-Pro mount can cause noises and vibration to my understanding.

Is there any room left between the top of the transmission and the tunnel? That could potentially be a cause of the noise.

 

[Feralkid]

There's plenty of room all the way from the bell housing to the transfer case. Nothing is even close to touching.

I was able to reproduce the sound by removing the four transmission mount to skid plate nuts and jacking the transmission up so the mount lifted of off the skid plate. This makes me think there is a problem with the engine and trans mounts lining up after the tummy tuck.

 

[Rut Row]

I just installed the same setup. I'm waiting on a UCF tank skid to finish the project. I'm watching this with great interest.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

What did you do with the exhaust hanger next to the transmission, and is the tailpipe welded to the muffler or do you have them clamped?

The exhaust hanger needs to be shortened by the amount the skid was raised, or you may have an exhaust component rubbing somewhere.

When I had mine clamped, the pipes at the clamp joint would rotate within the joint and squeak, and the tailpipe over time would spin until it made contact with the shock body, which would also make noise on bumps. I took care of it by welding it.

 

[Feralkid]

What did you do with the exhaust hanger next to the transmission, and is the tailpipe welded to the muffler or do you have them clamped?

The exhaust hanger needs to be shortened by the amount the skid was raised, or you may have an exhaust component rubbing somewhere.

When I had mine clamped, the pipes at the clamp joint would rotate within the joint and squeak, and the tailpipe over time would spin until it made contact with the shock body, which would also make noise on bumps. I took care of it by welding it.

I chopped the exhaust hanger and bolted it back together about 1 inch lower so there is about 1/2 inch space between the skid and the cat. The muffler is clamped, I just installed it yesterday so I guess we'll see how it goes. The tail pipe connection to the muffler was leaking and I had to use exhaust putty to seal it.

Newbie question:

If it does end up needing to be welded like yours did, can the putty be welded through or would I have to disassemble it and wire brush it clean?

Apparently though the creaking has been fixed. I just took it for a test drive and it's gone.

It must have been the rubber transmission mount being misaligned and creating tension between it and the skid plate from how I jacked up the skid to the frame to get it bolted up.

When I removed the nuts and jacked up the transfer case to separate the mount from the skid it must have resettled in the proper position when I lowered it back down.

So if you're having this problem you may need to get the skid plate bolted up to the frame and then raise the transmission up and lower it onto the skid to make sure the rubber mount settles properly.

This whole project has been such a pain in the ass getting everything to work together. Hopefully I'm done with it.

 

[Feralkid]

I just installed the same setup. I'm waiting on a UCF tank skid to finish the project. I'm watching this with great interest.

My stock fuel tank skid is starting to rust through.

I was looking at replacing it with the UCF skid or getting another OEM skid plate and chopping it and raising it up an inch since the Savvy gas tank skid isn't available.

 

[lBasket]

Fwiw I have the ultra clearance UCF skid and use an OEM transmission mount

 

[Feralkid]

Fwiw I have the ultra clearance UCF skid and use an OEM transmission mount

I bet you dented the hell out of the tub.

 

[lBasket]

I bet you dented the hell out of the tub.

I did not have to touch it

 

[macleanflood]

When I did my UCF skid plate I swapped my engine mounts and transmission mounts with new Anchor ones. I don't tighten the transmission mount bolts under last time let it settle into where it wants to be.. I also installed a 1" MML.

-Mac

 

[Rut Row]

My stock fuel tank skid is starting to rust through.

I was looking at replacing it with the UCF skid or getting another OEM skid plate and chopping it and raising it up an inch since the Savvy gas tank skid isn't available.

that was my original plan. Mt tank skid was badly rusted which I thought odd since the rest of the TJ is in good shape. I debated buying a new skid (they run 100-125 or so) and cutting it. Ultimately decided the UCF was a better bet.

 

[Feralkid]

that was my original plan. Mt tank skid was badly rusted which I thought odd since the rest of the TJ is in good shape. I debated buying a new skid (they run 100-125 or so) and cutting it. Ultimately decided the UCF was a better bet.

Yeah, I'll probably go that way as well. That's a lot of steel to cut through for a guy with a sawzall who doesn't have his own shop.

 

[Rickstar321]

I did the Barnes 0" flat belly several years ago, 1-1/4" body, 1" motor, SYE, Novak cable adjust. I only had one place I had to clearance on the tub and all I did was put a large socket on the "extrusion" on the trans case that was touching... jacked it up until it was lifting my tub... lowered it and wha-laa... it was clearanced... lol.

I also installed the Genright Trans Crossmember... which is awesome and has saved my bacon on the trail bc you can drop your skid without having to support the engine / transmission.