Front hubs / unit bearings—and maybe more

[ChadH]

Well I'm pretty sure I have a unit bearing going bad. Over the weekend drive it started a really hard pull to the right, with a nice burning smell and inconsistent front steering wobble mimicking DW or bad balanced tires. Same symptoms as when the TJ hubs went out. No noise yet though.

So looking at options, Just curious what the community thinks in terms of best replacement options. Of course OMIX and Crown are options. MOPAR I can still access. Then gatertamer posted a nice link to MOPAR bolts, but timken bearings.

Yeah just found these....even Mopar

Jeep Wrangler Cherokee Hub Bearing To Knuckle Mount Bolts Set of 6 OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CIOC66Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Then theres the consideration of while I'm there replacing the stock ball joints and brakes. The ball joints I think are going out anyway. I'm considering spicer. The brakes, at the least, could be refreshed with new fluid.

While I'm at it. I was looking at the Vanco 15/16 big brake kit with the upgraded knuckles.

But back to the topic at hand - any preferences for MOPAR vs. others for the hubs? Of course if going with the BMB kit it would be much easier to use the pre-machined unit bearings.

 

[lBasket]

I put timkens on mine a few years ago and they're still good. They're an OEM for GM aren't they? Were they the TJ OEM?

 

[ChadH]

I put timkens on mine a few years ago and they're still good. They're an OEM for GM aren't they? Were they the TJ OEM?

I'm not sure? Never really read anything bad about them except for maybe a bad batch several years ago. I'm leaning toward them anyway since BMB has them pre-machined and a brake upgrade would be nice.

 

[Gilaguy23]

I personally avoid anything like the plague from Omix or Crown. I assume you quit driving it if its so bad its pulling to one side. Maybe you outta check its not a hung caliper, or you could just drive it till the wheel falls. Timken, SKF, FAG, OEM......anything but chinabombs. I didnt see what your TJ you have but R/A has Timken and SKF units.

 

[machoheadgames]

But back to the topic at hand - any preferences for MOPAR vs. others for the hubs? Of course if going with the BMB kit it would be much easier to use the pre-machined unit bearings.

Where did someone find Mopar bearings? I don’t think those have been an option for a long time. Ball joints are fine to do if needed, definitely only use Spicer. Brakes I wouldn’t mess with unless you have a problem to solve. If you are planning on larger tires then the big brake kit makes more sense and then that would make more sense to source the bearings from Blaine as well. But in all reality, none of these parts are difficult to change and so it really wouldn’t be a big deal if for some reason you needed to go back in there to do more work in a year or so since you skipped that work now. So don’t think you need to replace everything just because you are going in there this time.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Timken ONLY for me. Spicer for ball joints and u-joints.

 

[ChadH]

I personally avoid anything like the plague from Omix or Crown. I assume you quit driving it if its so bad its pulling to one side. Maybe you outta check its not a hung caliper, or you could just drive it till the wheel falls. Timken, SKF, FAG, OEM......anything but chinabombs.

haha yeah definitely not driving it. I was putzing at 45 on the interstate the last 30 miles home. I haven't had time to fully inspect yet though. Hopefully this weekend. I have timken replacements on the TJ for the last 2 years and they have been just fine.

Where did someone find Mopar bearings? I don’t think those have been an option for a long time. Ball joints are fine to do if needed, definitely only use Spicer. Brakes I wouldn’t mess with unless you have a problem to solve. If you are planning on larger tires then the big brake kit makes more sense and then that would make more sense to source the bearings from Blaine as well. But in all reality, none of these parts are difficult to change and so it really wouldn’t be a big deal if for some reason you needed to go back in there to do more work in a year or so since you skipped that work now. So don’t think you need to replace everything just because you are going in there this time.

I found MOPARs in a few different places but they could, and likely are, misrepresenting what the actual part is. As for the brakes, I'm not going over 32's any time soon but I will be carrying some weight and potentially towing a small camp trailer. Having a little higher capacity would be nice. The brakes need an overhaul anyway, seems like a good time to just upgrade.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Where did someone find Mopar bearings? I don’t think those have been an option for a long time.

I buy all of my genuine Mopar parts here. Amazon has too many fakes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3549870303...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

99-06 Jeep Wrangler Cherokee Wheel Bearing Assembly Kit Mopar New OEM​

Steve White Motors
(156425)
99.4% positive
Seller's other itemsSeller's other items
Contact seller

US $139.76

 

[machoheadgames]

I buy all of my genuine Mopar parts here.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3549870303...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

99-06 Jeep Wrangler Cherokee Wheel Bearing Assembly Kit Mopar New OEM​

View attachment 636521
Steve White Motors
(156425)
99.4% positive
Seller's other itemsSeller's other items
Contact seller

US $139.76

The part number starting with a V means it’s not the actual original part. Probably a value line part. Still “Mopar” but likely not as good as original. I looked up the actual part number from the FSM and it isn’t found as Mopar anywhere. Therefore I’d be buying Timken or SKF from a reliable source (not Amazon) and calling it done.

 

[machoheadgames]

I found MOPARs in a few different places but they could, and likely are, misrepresenting what the actual part is. As for the brakes, I'm not going over 32's any time soon but I will be carrying some weight and potentially towing a small camp trailer. Having a little higher capacity would be nice. The brakes need an overhaul anyway, seems like a good time to just upgrade.

I based my response off of the FSM part number, which I could not find available anywhere. I’m assuming you found the same thing boogie listed, which being started with a V means it’s probably the OEM “cheap” line.

Nothing wrong with the big brake kit on smaller tires, but it’s excessive spending for sure. I ran the 15” kit on 31’s for a while, I liked it. So if you’re willing to spend the money, it’s not a bad way to go on 32’s. Though Blaine will tell you it’s unnecessary and technically it is, but I do think it’s a much more reliable setup than the original caliper design.

 

[TheBoogieman]

The part number starting with a V means it’s not the actual original part. Probably a value line part. Still “Mopar” but likely not as good as original. I looked up the actual part number from the FSM and it isn’t found as Mopar anywhere. Therefore I’d be buying Timken or SKF from a reliable source (not Amazon) and calling it done.

I don't trust the original Mopar parts anymore than the crap Bestop quality these days. I've yet to get crap Japanese parts for any of my vehicles. That's why I use Denso radiators/alternators, etc. in my Jeeps and cars.

 

[TheBoogieman]

I based my response off of the FSM part number, which I could not find available anywhere.

Because they upgrade/change part #s over the years. I don't want 22 year old parts for my Jeep just because they have a Mopar logo.

 

[mrblaine]

Of course if going with the BMB kit it would be much easier to use the pre-machined unit bearings.

Please don't. I pay the same as you do for the unit bearings, then I pay the machinist, then I pay transport back and forth and then I pay to store them on a shelf. After that, I don't work for free so I charge about 10-12 bucks per unit bearing as some sort of profit and I burn most of that up putting them in boxes to ship. Way too much money for something you can do yourself in 15 minutes with a grinder and a 36 gr. flap disc.

 

[mrblaine]

Where did someone find Mopar bearings? I don’t think those have been an option for a long time. Ball joints are fine to do if needed, definitely only use Spicer. Brakes I wouldn’t mess with unless you have a problem to solve. If you are planning on larger tires then the big brake kit makes more sense and then that would make more sense to source the bearings from Blaine as well. But in all reality, none of these parts are difficult to change and so it really wouldn’t be a big deal if for some reason you needed to go back in there to do more work in a year or so since you skipped that work now. So don’t think you need to replace everything just because you are going in there this time.

Stop that.

 

[ChadH]

Please don't. I pay the same as you do for the unit bearings, then I pay the machinist, then I pay transport back and forth and then I pay to store them on a shelf. After that, I don't work for free so I charge about 10-12 bucks per unit bearing as some sort of profit and I burn most of that up putting them in boxes to ship. Way too much money for something you can do yourself in 15 minutes with a grinder and a 36 gr. flap disc.

So I can machine them down enough with just a hand grinder? That's all I have access to at the moment.

 

[machoheadgames]

Because they upgrade/change part #s over the years. I don't want 22 year old parts for my Jeep just because they have a Mopar logo.

They don't upgrade them, they may supersede them. But for example, if a unit bearing from 2005 is the same part number in 2006 on a TJ that was then discontinued to make way for the JK, they aren't going to come out with better and better versions to replace that. If anything, what they will come out with will be something like the value line....aka supporting the TJ platform but with junk parts. Just because the part number is 22 years old, doesn't mean the part is. They still manufacturer the parts for 10 or more years after the application for the part. I've bought an OEM leaf spring part number for a YJ that matched the 30 year old parts book and the part was made in 2019, 24 years past the time frame when the factory last installed that part on a new vehicle.

All I'm trying to say is no one is getting the truly good original unit bearings from Mopar anymore. You may find an equivalent cheap version like the V line, but that isn't OEM. You're better off with Timken or SKF than going with one of those.

 

[machoheadgames]

Stop that.

I'm assuming you're talking about the part where I said he could buy your bearings if he went with the BBK. People like to buy your bearings because it eliminates a potential snag in the install. They know they're getting a good quality product because you wouldn't sell anything deemed as crap. They know that there's a good chance that what they have is original and could possibly benefit from a refresh, and they know that it keeps them from having to buy a grinder, or a grinding disc, plus doing a consistent job grinding them evenly, etc. I know you despise the idea of selling them, but there's a reason so many buy them.

 

[mrblaine]

So I can machine them down enough with just a hand grinder? That's all I have access to at the moment.

Yes, the edge of the flange has a small chamfer. You are basically removing enough of the OD of the flange to make the chamfer go away and the putting the chamfer back. About 1/16" off of the OD of the flange per side, 1/8" overall.

 

[mrblaine]

I'm assuming you're talking about the part where I said he could buy your bearings if he went with the BBK. People like to buy your bearings because it eliminates a potential snag in the install. They know they're getting a good quality product because you wouldn't sell anything deemed as crap. They know that there's a good chance that what they have is original and could possibly benefit from a refresh, and they know that it keeps them from having to buy a grinder, or a grinding disc, plus doing a consistent job grinding them evenly, etc. I know you despise the idea of selling them, but there's a reason so many buy them.

Well, not for nothing but I'm at the mercy of Timken QC and I could just as easily send out crap as not. We haven't yet, but that only holds true as long as Timken does their part.

 

[ChadH]

For anyone following, I opted for a full rebuild/upgrade set of 16" rotors, calipers, pads/shoes, and pre-machined hubs from @mrblaine. When it's time to do the same for the TJ I'll follow his recommendation and grind down hubs myself on the vehicle. They arrived yesterday and packaging was absolutely superb. He even includes a nice folder with all the instructions found online. For others interested in how it all looks, updates will be in the build thread once I get around to doing it, most likely in a few months. Until then I have to decide if I want to swap in axles with a re-gear and lockers now or later. I'm leaning to now since it would go nicely with the new hubs and upgraded brakes, and will give me a spare set to put in the TJ and figure out what is still going on with it.