Yes, I thought about that. I like the stock dash so went that route but the jeep pcm only controls those gauges and the a/c switches so I don't think it will affect the gm side of things.
LS swap update and questions
- Thread starter Longhorn84
- Start date
Yes, I thought about that. I like the stock dash so went that route but the jeep pcm only controls those gauges and the a/c switches so I don't think it will affect the gm side of things.
Just ran my bluedriver scan tool, codes P0157 (o2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 2), P0327 (knock/combustion vibration sensor 1 circuit low bank 1), and P0430 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold) bank 2 were the three codes. I changed knock sensors and had brand new cats and brand new OEM o2 sensors when doing the swap. I can't imagine that's what caused the weird takeoff video I just shot, but maybe?
Edit: I used a discount muffler shop and I know I still have a leak in the welds, I also had to have them replace one of the cats a few years ago when I heard rattling around and they changed it out for free. Seems like at least one step is to have a reputable exhaust shop fix the leak and examine the cats.
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@XCRN Have you weighed in on this yet?
The vacuum leak could be a problem but from your video I don't see it as the problem. That's a 2 fold issue that I see.
1) Transmission isn't shifting @ higher RPM's
2 Lack of low end power. This could be related to a list of issues
Because the O2 & cat are the same bank I'm wondering if they are related? Knock sensors on the GM product seemed to be an issue from what I remember when I had my truck.
I'm in agreement with Rickyd that you need to have the engine running correctly before you can do any real tuning on the engine or transmission.
The vacuum leak could be a problem but from your video I don't see it as the problem. That's a 2 fold issue that I see.
1) Transmission isn't shifting @ higher RPM's
2 Lack of low end power. This could be related to a list of issues
Because the O2 & cat are the same bank I'm wondering if they are related? Knock sensors on the GM product seemed to be an issue from what I remember when I had my truck.
I'm in agreement with Rickyd that you need to have the engine running correctly before you can do any real tuning on the engine or transmission.
I need to get to an exhaust shop to fix the leak and check the sensor/cat.
Then, I need to run down the knock issue to see if it's sensor, wiring, or something else.
My other question is should I go ahead and change the throttle body/sensor as it seems like that may affect my acceleration? I just don't have codes associated with it but after reading a bit, that could be something I try after getting the codes clear.
Do you have any way to do data logging? If you could data log while driving it to see what the throttle body sensor is doing that would help. Same with the knock sensor to know what it's doing. And then the same with the O2 sensors.
If the leak is bad enough it can cause a lean condition but it's got to be pretty bad.
Well as others have said if you are thinking about doing tuning you want to use a HPTuners MPVI 2+ or 3 https://www.hptuners.com/mpvi3/
There is a lot more support for the GM side of tuning than there is for the Dodge/Jeep side of things. With one of these you can make changes to your tune on your PCM & TCM. Also you might get a discount with a tuning service if they use HPT...
There are cheaper ways to do data logging but since you'd said you wanted to tune.
Ok,that's a good start. I bet a decent obd2 reader could tell if the speed sensor adapter is operating correctly?
Easy on the parts swapping til you get more diagnostics done. I just fixed a gals suburban that some clown threw throttle body,pcm and a bunch of other stuff at when all it needed was a few mouse chewed wires fixed
This is the Old Part Throwing adage that seems to be the new answer for mechanics. And sound advice.
It really helps to have a friend working as a tech to get you factory and alldata diagrams and troubleshooting flowcharts for electrical stuff. Its most of the job these days
makes sense. my dillema is I'm clearly a newbie to hp tuners and so knowing what I'm looking at will be a challenge and I don't have a trusted diagnoser near me. I agree I need to get mechanicals sound before taking to a tuner and throwing random parts isn't the answer. I'm better on the mechanical stuff than the electronic diagnosis!
One step at a time, factory wiring diagrams for your donor vehicle is a good start
You could take it to a shop and have them diagnose things... Doesn't always mean they'll get the diagnoses correct but if they're a reputable shop... they should be better than others. Just reading a trouble code is only 10% of the problem. It's figuring out why you got the trouble code that is the 90% part. Some newer mechanics are just taught to go off the code and replace that.
And example would be in that video of my WOT run with my Hemi. I kept getting a DTC saying the cam position sensor was bad. But it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor that was causing the Cam sensor to throw a code.
looks like my bluedriver thing will data log o2 and throttle body but not the knock sensors. i'll drive it tomorrow and try to pull some data.
Can you also watch your O2 sensors? And the fuel trim? The more things you can watch the better. But also don't overload with information.
Yes, here's the list but I don't see knock sensors on it https://support.bluedriver.com/support/solutions/articles/43000551789-live-data-guide
@Longhorn84 how many O2 sensors are on your jeep, in your harness? Based on the codes it seems your computer is expecting 2 upstream and 2 downstream if it’s saying bank 2 sensor 2 is throwing code? I had downstream deleted on mine.
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