Just like the title says, I couldn't get my coils in without spring compressors. Just wondering if unbolting a control arm is going to be the best bet or if anyone has some tips and tricks.
Easiest Way to Get Coils Out
- Thread starter OffroadTreks
- Start date
Get the frame up as high as possible, disconnect everything, and let it droop all the way down. You may not have to disconnect everything but using a spring compressor doesn't have to be a requirement. Those things scare the crap out of me.
Disconnect steering
Disconnect shocks
Disconnect track bar
Jam em in partially
Give er a good ol kick
Is my process
Disconnect shocks
Disconnect track bar
Jam em in partially
Give er a good ol kick
Is my process
On the front, shocks, lower control arm, and track bar can hang it up. Only remove one control arm at a time, pull that spring, reconnect the CA to keep the axle from tilting front-back. Tilt one end of the axle down, lift the other end. Watch your brake lines, don't stretch them tight.
Do not disconnect everything.
Loosen anything with a bonded rubber bushing. Control arms, track bars, sway bar links.
Disconnect the shocks on the bottom end.
Keep an eye on the front brake hoses.
The springs should come out fairly easily.
Loosen anything with a bonded rubber bushing. Control arms, track bars, sway bar links.
Disconnect the shocks on the bottom end.
Keep an eye on the front brake hoses.
The springs should come out fairly easily.
Shocks and track bar and I use a spring compressor because I've got Currie/Rock Jock and they're longer just so they don't casually fall out on full droop.
-Mac
-Mac
On my TJ that is full Johnny Joints on everything including track bar, I only need to disconnect the sway bar links and shocks leaving track bar installed. On my LJ that is Johnny Joints everything EXCEPT the track bar, I was also able to only disconnect the sway bar links and shocks and left track bar installed, but it is WAY more of a struggle.
Also on both instances, what helps after all is disconnected is to jack up one side of the axle and it will open the distance between upper and lower spring perches on the opposite side. You might have to manually push down that side as well. Then jack up the side you just took out the spring on until its open enough on the other end. Do the same when re-installing springs. I also do this on the rear but I find I need more force to remove and install the springs if there is a spring installed on the other side.
Also on both instances, what helps after all is disconnected is to jack up one side of the axle and it will open the distance between upper and lower spring perches on the opposite side. You might have to manually push down that side as well. Then jack up the side you just took out the spring on until its open enough on the other end. Do the same when re-installing springs. I also do this on the rear but I find I need more force to remove and install the springs if there is a spring installed on the other side.
+1 on XCRN's approach. What trips us up usually is that we don't get the frame high enough in the first place, so there's often not enough gap to get the spring into w/o compressing.
I hate the answer, but this is a classic "It Depends" ha. I've got Currie 4", and I have to disconnect lower CA and shock and sway bar disconnect, and Jack up the other side then I can remove the spring, and then CONNECT that Lower CA and do the opposite to the other side. 100% zero possibility to get it out without the lower CA disconnected. Luckily I don't have to disconnect the track bar.
I have a Savvy midarm and the Currie 4" coils almost fall out when the shocks and sway bars are disconnected.
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