What are these oil leak(s) and what should I do about them?

[Redjeepht]

I've noticed my Jeep has had a few leaks. It has almost 250000 miles, the previous owner used high-mileage Valvoline oil. I have done two oil changes and used non-synthetic Rotella. I just bought some "all-mileage" Valvoline to see if that will help with the leaks some, I couldn't find a "high-mileage" oil that wasn't synthetic. So hopefully the all-mileage will work good.

I've had the Jeep start to overheat a few times in traffic, and the radiator would be empty. My coolant reservoir has a piece of plastic 1" diameter pipe floating around the inside of the reservoir. I just ordered a new reservoir and thought maybe it had something to do with it. I also changed the spark plugs about a month ago and the furthest back plug was oily.

Besides the overheating problem, it runs fine and strong. Heres a few spots I've noticed fluid 1. The thermostat area 2. back right & left of engine 3. theres also oil on the front of the oil pan, not sure where it started from though.

 

[lBasket]

I've noticed my Jeep has had a few leaks. It has almost 250000 miles, the previous owner used high-mileage Valvoline oil. I have done two oil changes and used non-synthetic Rotella. I just bought some "all-mileage" Valvoline to see if that will help with the leaks some, I couldn't find a "high-mileage" oil that wasn't synthetic. So hopefully the all-mileage will work good.

I've had the Jeep start to overheat a few times in traffic, and the radiator would be empty. My coolant reservoir has a piece of plastic 1" diameter pipe floating around the inside of the reservoir. I just ordered a new reservoir and thought maybe it had something to do with it. I also changed the spark plugs about a month ago and the furthest back plug was oily.

Besides the overheating problem, it runs fine and strong. Heres a few spots I've noticed fluid 1. The thermostat area 2. back right & left of engine 3. theres also oil on the front of the oil pan, not sure where it started from though.

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Kinda looks like water pump leaking out of weep hole

 

[Cooper Smith]

I used conventional Castrol 10w30 in my 2.4 TJ. It slowed my oil pan leak down pretty good, but it still leaked a little bit. I kept a couple quarts in the Jeep and ignored it, checking the level every time I got gas.

The thing on your valve cover is your PCV. It vents excess crankcase vapors, and if it gets stuck closed, it can blow seals out. If it gets stuck open, you'll burn oil. I'd replace it at that mileage.

For the oil pan, a leak at the front is probably the oil pan gasket itself. Make sure the bolts are tight. You can narrow it down with UV dye, in case its the timing/valve cover or front main seal.

As for your coolant, which isn't a great color to begin with, I suspect a water pump leak. Probably time for a thermostat, WP, and a good flush.

 

[Redjeepht]

Kinda looks like water pump leaking out of weep hole

Well I guess it's either the water pump or the thermostat, do you think would cause the oily leak in the last photo? I guess my first step would be to get it cleaned up really well

 

[Mall'er]

First step is the leaking water pump. Fix that first, then worry about the oil leaks.

No, don't drive it until you fix the water pump, or you can ruin your engine.

 

[JKP]

Replace the water pump and thermostat and flush the cooling system.

Clean up the engine so you can see what's leaking.

The leak at the front is either the oil pan gasket or the crank seal in the timing cover.

The valve cover elbows and grommets need to be replaced. The one with the small hole goes in the back.

 

[Redjeepht]

What about these?

 

[DuckNut]

Well I guess it's either the water pump or the thermostat, do you think would cause the oily leak in the last photo? I guess my first step would be to get it cleaned up really well

Are you sure that is oil? Kind of looks like rusty coolant.

 

[Redjeepht]

Are you sure that is oil? Kind of looks like rusty coolant.

It probably is rusty coolant, It wasn't that thick. Did you see the other two pictures just posted?

 

[DuckNut]

It probably is rusty coolant, It wasn't that thick. Did you see the other two pictures just posted?

I did.

I agree with the guy above that you should tackle the water pump first as that is critical.

Then clean the engine up so you can identify wher other leaks are coming from.

If you are taking to a shop, clean it sll up so they can identify the leaks and fix them all at the same time.

When there is one leak it slobbers all over disguising itself as multiple leaks. So much easier to identify and work on a clean engine.

 

[DuckNut]

It probably is rusty coolant, It wasn't that thick. Did you see the other two pictures just posted?

The last pic i believe is a protective cover. I believe under the cracked piece is metal hardline.

 

[Redjeepht]

The last pic i believe is a protective cover. I believe under the cracked piece is metal hardline.

I have that piece on order from Rock Auto. along with the water pump/ thermostat & PCV elbows. I'm going to do that part myself. I found a good video off of YouTube! I'll be doing those repairs first.

I was hoping to get my A/C done next though, I had a bad heater core. So I have a heater core and evaporator ready to go in, then I was going to have a shop find out why i'm not getting power to my A/C compressor. I at least need to get the heater working for winter.

 

[KennethS]

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Kinda hard to tell, but is that up a bit high for a water pump weep hole leak? My first thought was the thermostat housing, but I could be wrong.

 

[JKP]

If that is oil all over the AC condenser, you have a leak in it and your system is out of refrigerant. The AC system has a low pressure switch that prevents it from running if the refrigerant level is too low.

Go to the Resources section and download the FSM, it will come in handy.

 

[CharlesHS]

I was hoping to get my A/C done next though, I had a bad heater core. So I have a heater core and evaporator ready to go in, then I was going to have a shop find out why i'm not getting power to my A/C compressor. I at least need to get the heater working for winter.

The dampness in front of the condenser (behind the front grill) shows signs of oil seepage which can be an indication of a refrigerant leak.
The low refrigerant pressure stops the A/C compressor clutch from engaging (safety feature) by the LPCO not transferring power to the clutch mechanism.
You can jumper out the LPCO by removing the electrical connector on the accumulator/drier filter assembly near the firewall (right of battery tray) and place and wire or paperclip in and briefly test to see if the compressor will start. This confirms the LPCO is seeing low refrigerant pressure OR the LPCO is bad.
Either way the A/C system will require servicing; finding the leaks, purging system and adding refrigerant OR a full system service which involves O rings, filter drier replacement, expansion orifice replacement, purge and adding refrigerant.

 

[Redjeepht]

Replace the water pump and thermostat and flush the cooling system.

When I flush the cooling system. Do I do that before I replace the pump and thermostat or after? Also I don’t have my heater core connected, the hose is looped to bypass it if that makes a difference in the flush