Brake light indicator on again after replacing proportioning valve

[Cloaked_TJ06]

Hello Everyone i put in a proposition valve not too long ago and I still have the brake light indicator come on and when I step on the brake it goes of then it'll come back on and so on . My brake fluid is full also that prop valve came from amazon because I wasn't spending $300 or so on a mopar one since I didn't have the money at the time. Don't know if my issue is that I didn't get OEM or not but I would love for it to go away and stop beeping all the time annoys the crap out of me . especially when i stop then go again is when it loved to turn on and flash . its hard to explain but that's what I keep seeing . The prop valve seems to be fine its just an annoying brake indicator light on the dash that comes on and beeps which I can figure out how to get rid of , @Chris I made a new write up sorry about the last one I made . Also do you have any ideas on what to do or what I can do to figure it out ?

 

[glowell222]

There's a switch inside the proportioning valve that needs to be reset. I have reset mine by violently stomping the brake pedal. There's probably a better, less satisfying, way to do the reset.

 

[ColoJeep]

There is a spool inside the valve that needs to be centered in the valve , it can be moved by removing the valve from the system , remove the warning light switch , and moving the spool to the center , reinstall the warning light switch to keep the spool centered . reinstall the valve , bleed the system.
Mr. Blaine has shown to procedure with photos included on this forum.

 

[hear]

It sounds like every time he hits the brakes it does the reset?

 

[mrblaine]

Hello Everyone i put in a proposition valve not too long ago and I still have the brake light indicator come on and when I step on the brake it goes of then it'll come back on and so on . My brake fluid is full also that prop valve came from amazon because I wasn't spending $300 or so on a mopar one since I didn't have the money at the time. Don't know if my issue is that I didn't get OEM or not but I would love for it to go away and stop beeping all the time annoys the crap out of me . especially when i stop then go again is when it loved to turn on and flash . its hard to explain but that's what I keep seeing . The prop valve seems to be fine its just an annoying brake indicator light on the dash that comes on and beeps which I can figure out how to get rid of , @Chris I made a new write up sorry about the last one I made . Also do you have any ideas on what to do or what I can do to figure it out ?

When you installed the combo block (that thing you are calling a proposition valve) why did you think you needed to?

 

[ColoJeep]

It sounds like every time he hits the brakes it does the reset?

Both sides of the hydraulic system need to hold pressure equally to keep the spool centered and the light off. If there's a leak in one side it would shift the spool from the center and turn on the light . Check the system carefully for leaks or the harder to find internal leak , ( maybe at the master cylinder ) .

 

[macleanflood]

I'd rather buy a junkyard TJ proportioning valve than something off Amazon.

Do you have pictures or a link for the part you installed?

-Mac

 

[mrblaine]

It sounds like every time he hits the brakes it does the reset?

Yes, and once the detent in the shuttle valve lines up with the spring plunger in the switch, it should keep the light off since there should not be any differential pressure to move the shuttle without pressure from the master. His is working backwards which indicates a source of pressure in the system without the pedal being pushed.

 

[hear]

Yes, and once the detent in the shuttle valve lines up with the spring plunger in the switch, it should keep the light off since there should not be any differential pressure to move the shuttle without pressure from the master. His is working backwards which indicates a source of pressure in the system without the pedal being pushed.

IDK how that valve works, but is it purely balanced by equalized pressure, or is there a set of springs or something that could be applying a net force?

 

[ColoJeep]

Yes, and once the detent in the shuttle valve lines up with the spring plunger in the switch, it should keep the light off since there should not be any differential pressure to move the shuttle without pressure from the master. His is working backwards which indicates a source of pressure in the system without the pedal being pushed.

Make sense , but where would the pressure come from ? Is it possible that a huge air lock in half the system biases the spool enough to light the warning light ? Thanks .

 

[mrblaine]

IDK how that valve works, but is it purely balanced by equalized pressure, or is there a set of springs or something that could be applying a net force?

The shuttle valve is held in the center position by the switch which has a spring loaded plunger that lands in the detent (groove for the goobers).
There are no springs acting to move the shuttle. It is only held in the center position which is full flow to both circuits by the spring plunger in the switch.

What moves the shuttle is differential pressure. (pressure higher on one side for the goobers) When pressure on one side gets high enough to overcome the spring loaded plunger in the shuttle detent, that pushes the shuttle to the lower pressure side to restrict flow to the lower pressure circuit.

It is a safety feature to slow down how much fluid gets lost when something like a leak or failed line happens so that some level of brake will be available for the higher pressure or non leaking end.

 

[mrblaine]

Make sense , but where would the pressure come from ? Is it possible that a huge air lock in half the system biases the spool enough to light the warning light ? Thanks .

Typically when you have a weird problem, you try to come up with what you would do to create it to get some idea where to start looking.
Pressurized air lock would require that there is no way to get the fluid back into the master reservoir. Without the pedal being pressed, the fluid to each corner moves freely and is common to the reservoir through the master and because the pistons aren't covering the replenishment ports.

If it weren't that way, as the brake cylinders warmed up from dragging frictions, the fluid would expand and start self applying the brakes. That is easily solved by letting the fluid push through the master into the reservoir so it acts as a zero pressure expansion tank.

Why was the combo valve replaced?

 

[ColoJeep]

Typically when you have a weird problem, you try to come up with what you would do to create it to get some idea where to start looking.
Pressurized air lock would require that there is no way to get the fluid back into the master reservoir. Without the pedal being pressed, the fluid to each corner moves freely and is common to the reservoir through the master and because the pistons aren't covering the replenishment ports.

If it weren't that way, as the brake cylinders warmed up from dragging frictions, the fluid would expand and start self applying the brakes. That is easily solved by letting the fluid push through the master into the reservoir so it acts as a zero pressure expansion tank.

Why was the combo valve replaced?

Thanks !

 

[Cloaked_TJ06]

When you installed the combo block (that thing you are calling a proposition valve) why did you think you needed to?

I was having that issue before I installed it then it was fine but acting up again . Before it would beep every time I stop and go and just flash at me but then I stop then the beeping would stop and so on . It doesn’t do it every day just out of nowhere and random times too

 

[mrblaine]

I was having that issue before I installed it then it was fine but acting up again . Before it would beep every time I stop and go and just flash at me but then I stop then the beeping would stop and so on . It doesn’t do it every day just out of nowhere and random times too

The connector at the switch in the side of the combo block is part of a series circuit. You can unplug the connector off of the switch and the parking brake switch still works at the parking brake. So, do that, unplug the connector at the combo block and report the change if any to the light and beeping.

 

[Cloaked_TJ06]

I'd rather buy a junkyard TJ proportioning valve than something off Amazon.

Do you have pictures or a link for the part you installed?

-Mac

Coming back to this post I made and yes I do have the link I can send it here . Also I'm so confused about all of this . I bet its the cheap ass amazon one since I'm still having the issue . can I unplug the switch and it'll go off I don't care if it flashes the beeping just gets annoying every day plus I like to listen to music in the jeep and with that beeping I cant even hear it over the beeping shit

heres the link https://www.amazon.com/MOCA-Proport...96-1987-1996/dp/B0D9VMN6HB?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[mrblaine]

Coming back to this post I made and yes I do have the link I can send it here . Also I'm so confused about all of this . I bet its the cheap ass amazon one since I'm still having the issue . can I unplug the switch and it'll go off I don't care if it flashes the beeping just gets annoying every day plus I like to listen to music in the jeep and with that beeping I cant even hear it over the beeping shit

heres the link https://www.amazon.com/MOCA-Proport...96-1987-1996/dp/B0D9VMN6HB?tag=wranglerorg-20

Have you done anything to diagnose the system since your post on July 1, the first post in this thread?

 

[machoheadgames]

Buys a part with 2.5 star rating (only reviews are 1 star), has trouble, needs help, doesn't answer any questions that would allow assistance to be provided....makes sense.

 

[mrblaine]

Buys a part with 2.5 star rating (only reviews are 1 star), has trouble, needs help, doesn't answer any questions that would allow assistance to be provided....makes sense.

Or, nothing has changed with regard to the original problem. The system was not diagnosed. We do not know if we have air in the master, a leak, improperly bled system, or something else that might have caused the original issue. We just made assumptions that the messenger telling us there is a problem was wrong and got us a new messenger. Now the new messenger is telling us the same thing so now it is the messenger's fault, again.

The explanations above from everyone are not something that is done without effort and care and like the messenger, was wholly dismissed.

 

[Cloaked_TJ06]

Have you done anything to diagnose the system since your post on July 1, the first post in this thread?

I haven't messed with bleeding the brakes at all since they seem fine . when I push the brake down to get it to temporary go off it doesn't do much . overall I have read through all the messages and I'd like to do something about it but don't know where to start . I'd like to unplug the switch on it and see where that goes but don't know if that would do anything . also I know that I shouldn't of bought the Amazon one but really that was my only choice because I couldn't find a mopar one to save my life plus I wasn't spending $300+ . I've seen some on eBay like OEM ones I don't know if that would fix my issue I'm having or its electrical or whatnot but I'm getting tired of it beeping I just want it to go off