My advice: Mr. Blaine is the resident brake expert on the forum, and he's forgotten more than the rest of us, combined, know about the subject. If you're having a hard time trying to keep up with the feedback, since you have his attention, just concentrate on answering his questions (and be grateful that you have his attention - he's a busy feller). Follow his suggestions, and you'll be able to fix it properly. However, you seem to have a bit of a patience problem. Take a deep breath, because lack of patience and problem-solving are not a good combination.trying to be better at answering messages but when theres so many cant keep up .
Seem and is are two entirely different states of functionality. How did you swap out the combo block without bleeding the brakes?
You have to be specific. Down to get what to temporily go off?
You would like to unplug the connector from the switch? What does that mean?
Again, it doesn't matter if you did or did not buy the cheap one because we still know exactly zero about why the system is turning the light on. Until we know something that a diagnosis tells us, all we know is you changed out a part that may or may not be bad.
If you unplug the connector from the switch in side of the combo block with the parking brake not applied, key on until the dash lights up, transmission in drive, what happens? Put another way, if you recreate the normal conditions under which the light turns on with the connector unplugged, what changes?
The shop is stupid. It is not a brake fluid level switch. First, a fluid level switch or sensor would be in the side of the fluid reservoir so it would be able to read the fluid level.
I have already explained how the system works.
If you refer to the one from Amazon as crappy again, we are done. If the one from Amazon is crappy, then so is the one you removed since they are both producing the same results which is to tell you that there is a problem in the system which is their precise function which they both have done and are doing.
I have given you a test to start with. I'm not repeating it. Read again, slowly this time and then do what you were told to do and report back.
The beep and light being on tell you the shuttle valve has shifted in the combo block. The valve shifts when pressure is higher on one side than the other. The high pressure side is typically the normal non leaking side. The "leak" is the lower pressure side. Leak in quotes because it can be a faulty plunger in the switch but very rarely. More commonly the low pressure or no pressure is caused by an actual leak, air in a caliper that is upside down, air in the system that is not properly bled out, or something else other than a faulty switch.
Sure, you can - if you’re satisfied with driving a vehicle with air or leaks in the brake lines. Most of us aren’t.
Here is the near same mentality. You drive around a bit and there is a beep from the dash and a check gauges light turns on. You look and notice that the temp gauge is pegged in the red. Well, that's fucking annoying. When you get home, you unplug the connector off of the the temp sensor on the thermostat housing and tape it up. All better now, no more check gauges and that annoying beep is gone.
