Why three tie rod ends?
Why three tie rod ends?
So only one 3095R and one 3096L?
Yes, the R stands for “right,” so its position is on the end of the tie rod on the right side (passenger). The L stands for “left,” so its position is on the left side of the drag link (driver side) where it connects to the Pitman Arm.
I legit do not have a driveway
Do it in the AutoZone parking lot. They want to charge you $1,200 in labor to spend an hour or two installing $200 in parts.
Fair point. I do find the cost a bit insulting. I wondered if it was because they see a small woman but I hate jumping to conclusions. I've heavily considered asking a guy that I almost bought a jeep from (I had a family emergency and he was looking to sell fast so I missed out, but we had a good report) if I could just use his place (he actually has a lift) and throw him some cash. Is that an odd thing? Guess I'll have to hit my storage unit and pull my tools. I have been properly chastised by forum.
If I didn't live in a complex that has an insane HOA I'd probably violate the rules...but then my wife would also kill me...![]()
Hi everyone, new to this forum. Recently bought a 99' TJ (4.0, manual, 200K odo, mostly stock but bigger tires, no lift). I'm not really looking to do anything crazy with it but I want it as solid as I can make it. Before purchasing it I had a mechanic near the seller check it out and gave her a clean bill of health other than the "outer tie rod boots are torn (but no play at this time").
Of note, the Jeep doesn't have a death wobble or anything like that but I do feel like the wheel is a bit "loose".
With that in mind I felt that it was better to just do the upgrade to the ZJ conversion. Now, normally I would do this stuff myself (way back when I did) but I no longer have a garage in which to do it so I decided to take it to my local shop here in WA but I'm running into a few issues with information to provide to them. They are fine with doing it but they need to order all the parts (in order for it to be insured, makes sense) and they seemed a bit confused by the information I gave them. I told them it should just bolt in (which is what I assumed based upon this post), is that incorrect?
Also, I saw that a lot of people have had to paint parts... is that something I should confirm with the shop? I live near Seattle and we get a LOT of rain. All the owners before me garaged it, I will be keeping it in a carport but I don't have any rust and I'd like to keep it that way.
If I wanted to give them an exact parts list would this be correct?
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1x MOOG DS1312 Tie Rod End
1x MOOG DS1430 Tie rod end (Steering Drag Link) - this is the only one that should still be the "stock" TJ component right?
1x Monroe Magnum SC2928 Steering Damper (or equivalent option?)
2x MOOG ES2079S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
2x - MOOG ES3096L Steering Tie Rod End
Is that everything that is needed to fulfill this conversion? Is there anything that I should add while they are working on it? Currently I'm being quoted $1400 for parts and labor, the shop that I talked to about replacing it (but I think with original TJ parts) had quoted me $1200. Does that seem like an okay number? I feel like the parts aren't that expensive and I've seen the replacement online be only a few hours but I could be wrong. Thoughts or anything I'm not thinking of?
Apologies for the length of my post, just want to get this done but don't want to have to go back and forth with the shop. Wish I could do it at home but we now live in a condo and they have strict enforcement on even using our carport for this type of stuff.
Again, this is just for having fun around town and to be okay out on the farm when I visit family + when we move back east to wheel around Cape Cod. I do not plan on taking it on trails or anything like that (prefer horses!).
** Posted here instead of making a new thread since it's specific and I didn't see anyone in the 34 pages have my situation.
Do a dry steering test(Google it) and determine if you will even see any benefit from replacing the tie rods. "Loose" steering can come from a few things. Steering box,steering shaft and support bearing, possibly wheel bearings,ball joints,suspension bushings or alignment out of spec.
The zj drag link is for lifted jeeps with big tires that bend the stock parts offroad.
Do a dry steering test(Google it) and determine if you will even see any benefit from replacing the tie rods. "Loose" steering can come from a few things. Steering box,steering shaft and support bearing, possibly wheel bearings,ball joints,suspension bushings or alignment out of spec.
The zj drag link is for lifted jeeps with big tires that bend the stock parts offroad.
This project 100% doesn’t need a lift.
You leave the jeep on level ground, any level ground, take out the old, lay out the new and bolt it up.
The only issue is setting the toe in, again level ground sitting flat, but you would need to look it up.
This takes normal wrenches, and a BFH.
Take out the pins on the castle nuts, Loosen the Tie Rod ends castle nuts but leave them on a few threads. Unbolt the stabilizer I believe.
Then hit each TRE so they fall out of the knuckle but the castle nut keeps from falling all the way out.
Then take it out, and replace. Just look up the home alignment toe in, but they should be close if you adjust the new to fit. Do it either way, takes a wrench and a few tape measures.
1 adjuster sleeve
the R stands for “right,” so its position is on the end of the tie rod on the right side (passenger). The L stands for “left,” so its position is on the left side of the drag link (driver side)
Other than zerk placement is there a difference between them?
Dude I lived in and ran an HOAIf I didn't live in a complex that has an insane HOA I'd probably violate the rules...but then my wife would also kill me...![]()
its position is on the end of the tie rod on the right side (passenger).
