Yet Another UCF Transfer Case Skid Thread

[Rut Row]

UCF had a Memorial Day sale on their 1/4" aluminum UCF Transfer Case Skid for '03-'06 TJ/LJ (Extra-Clearance) & Locker Pump Mount". As a veteran, I didn't want to insult them by taking a pass on it. I'm currently working on a bunch of excuses for the inevitable spousal question on why I bought it.

So I've been reading all the threads on tummy tucks. This thread by JeepZilla380 (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/ucf-extra-clearance-skid-install.13862/) says it was straight forward except for the pinion alignment but he installed a 1" MML.

The PO installed 3” BDS coil springs, 1-1/4” BL, JKS adjustable front and rear track bars, adjustable front lower control arms, and lowered the stock TC skid 1/4". I also got a box of surplus parts and in that box is a 1" MML.

My TJ handles fine as-is and has no vibrations so I'm assuming the pinion angles are fine. Am I naive to think I can install the MML and the UCF skid without doing anything else?

I'm getting brain cramps trying to understand what I might need to do.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

Your Jeep has a lot of mods so it might end up being a trial and error situation. With my 4 inch lift first I eliminated the tc drop on stock skid and it was fine. Later I got adjustable arms and got the same skid as you. Seemed like transfer case was hitting tub and couldn't get the skid all the way up. I ended up using 1/2 spacers as a "Temporary" fix but it's been about 4 years like that. I have a 1/2 BL also.

 

[Bigfoot-NM]

Before you start, measure your pinion angles and driveshaft angles.
Install skid plate
Measure pinion angles and driveshaft angles afterwards.

No guessing.....you'll have the numbers and know what to do.

 

[Rut Row]

Before you start, measure your pinion angles and driveshaft angles.
Install skid plate
Measure pinion angles and driveshaft angles afterwards.

No guessing.....you'll have the numbers and know what to do.

duh ... I've been over thinking this. Thanks!

 

[daveydave]

I have a BL and MML and was able to use the factory transmission mount. My buddy also with the same skid has no BL or MML, but ordered the low clearance mount… not sure if that’s what it’s called or not, but it’s from UCF for this situation. We both had to pound a little nugget into the floor for the transfer case (241), but nothing major.

 

[Duck Doctor]

If you end up needing the low clearance mount let me know. Bought the mount for my LJ Rubicon but didn't need it.

 

[Rut Row]

If you end up needing the low clearance mount let me know. Bought the mount for my LJ Rubicon but didn't need it.

thanks for the offer - I definitely will keep you in mind.

 

[macleanflood]

I just installed a 3/8" UCF extra low clearance skid and a BMB 1.25" BL and JKS 1" MML.

I didn't measure anything. I slapped it in there and it was pretty damn good. Drove from Oregon to Moab and back.

My cat is making contact with the skid...so I need to do some exhaust rework.

I got a little drive line buzz...a rythmic wumm, wumm. Didn't bother me too much.

I think that might have taken out the center section of my double carden on my front shaft. That may have contributed to the front 231J seal failing and hemmoraging fluid on the way home.

That and/or my alignment went to hell because I didn't have my jam nuts locked in tight enough.

One way or another I need to redo my alignment, drop the skid, replace the shift seal on the 231J, replace my rear O2, rework my exhaust... probably cut and clock the 2.5" stainless I fabbed up at the expansion joint I added in front of the oil pan up a few degrees and then level it out at the cat or the v-band I installed in front of the cat.

Oh...the skid kept wiggling bolts loose...I solved this using blue loctite/proper torque and a double stack of grade 8 washers...extra thick and a fender. Don't use 3/5.

I'm thinking of buying a strip of UMHW or aluminum, countersinking bolt holes and using it as a combination disposable rub rail/washer. I bought some protection washers from Barnes but they're ridiculously huge.

-Mac

 

[Rut Row]

I got a little drive line buzz...a rythmic wumm, wumm. Didn't bother me too much.

I have that now at 60-65 or so. Thanks for the info! I'm going to start with it as is and see what happens. I've been playing/replaying the Tom Woods videos too.

 

[Moglocker]

I just installed a 3/8" UCF extra low clearance skid and a BMB 1.25" BL and JKS 1" MML.

I didn't measure anything. I slapped it in there and it was pretty damn good. Drove from Oregon to Moab and back.

My cat is making contact with the skid...so I need to do some exhaust rework.

I got a little drive line buzz...a rythmic wumm, wumm. Didn't bother me too much.

I think that might have taken out the center section of my double carden on my front shaft. That may have contributed to the front 231J seal failing and hemmoraging fluid on the way home.

That and/or my alignment went to hell because I didn't have my jam nuts locked in tight enough.

One way or another I need to redo my alignment, drop the skid, replace the shift seal on the 231J, replace my rear O2, rework my exhaust... probably cut and clock the 2.5" stainless I fabbed up at the expansion joint I added in front of the oil pan up a few degrees and then level it out at the cat or the v-band I installed in front of the cat.

Oh...the skid kept wiggling bolts loose...I solved this using blue loctite/proper torque and a double stack of grade 8 washers...extra thick and a fender. Don't use 3/5.

I'm thinking of buying a strip of UMHW or aluminum, countersinking bolt holes and using it as a combination disposable rub rail/washer. I bought some protection washers from Barnes but they're ridiculously huge.

View attachment 619377View attachment 619378

-Mac

Yep,I have the same,I did have to raise my exhaust system,so having a welder helps.

 

[Superjay5]

You will need a SYE for sure if you don’t have one.

 

[Rut Row]

You will need a SYE for sure if you don’t have one.

I have a Rubicon. SYE not needed.

 

[GPK03X]

I have a Rubicon. SYE not needed.

You will need a DC driveshaft for your Rubicon. Available from Tom Wood for about $430

 

[Rut Row]

You will need a DC driveshaft for your Rubicon. Available from Tom Wood for about $430

@macleanflood didn't use one (see above) and he was fine. Or he hasn't updated his profile.

BUT! I would like to get a full set of his shafts eventually

 

[macleanflood]

@macleanflood didn't use one (see above) and he was fine. Or he hasn't updated his profile.

BUT! I would like to get a full set of his shafts eventually

I've got Adam's driveshafts front and rear. SYE since it's not a Rubicon.

I can definitely see why I would have been better off with a SSYE.

-Mac

 

[GPK03X]

I have that UCF skid on my X. It raises drive line about 2.5 inches. In addition to the DC shaft you will need a rear angled track bar bracket and at least rear upper adjustable arms. Exhaust mods will also be necessary.

 

[Rut Row]

I have that UCF skid on my X. It raises drive line about 2.5 inches. In addition to the DC shaft you will need a rear angled track bar bracket and at least rear upper adjustable arms. Exhaust mods will also be necessary.

This suddenly got expensive

 

[voodooridr]

This suddenly got expensive

It always does

 

[Moglocker]

I have that UCF skid on my X. It raises drive line about 2.5 inches. In addition to the DC shaft you will need a rear angled track bar bracket and at least rear upper adjustable arms. Exhaust mods will also be necessary.

Yep,just get adjustable upper control arms to set the angle,and I had good luck with the jks angle track bar bracket and track bar.

 

[lBasket]

If you have a tcase drop you already needed most of these parts anyways