Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Can’t source automatic transmission leak

hear

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Prosper, TX
I've posted multiple times my strategy for sourcing leaks on an auto, but my methods are failing me this time. I KNOW the transmission is leaking, I've seen the level drop over a period of months. And there is a drip under the jeep, but drips themselves can be misleading as to the source.

  • I have fresh clean ATF on the cooler lines right where they do a 90 as they come around the bellhousing.
    • this feels like the one I need to solve for
    • there is no evidence that it is coming from the cooler line connections at the radiator
  • I have a drip on the bottom of the oil pan (the engine pan, NOT the trans pan)
    • I can only assume that it's being blown or slung here
  • The front driveshaft is wet, and the frame rail & tub above it are wet
    • seems like the driveshaft is getting fluid on it and slinging it
  • There is a very slow drip on the bottom of the bellhousing
    • I left a paper towel jammed in there overnight and it came back dry
    • I've had this slow leak for a while but it being on the cooler lines is new
  • The 4 "nubs" on the bottom of the skid near the trans mount bolts all have a drip on them
    • this usually means there is atf pooling on the skid but I don't see that
    • trans mount is pretty dry, so i don't think it's the extension housing seal
  • The front half of the t-case is pretty wet
    • if that seal were the leak the transmission wouldn't be low on fluid
    • I could have 2 leaks obv
  • The shaft selector, cooler lines, NSS, and TCC are all greasy but dry.
  • Dipstick tube is dry.

The paper towels I jammed everywhere were dry this afternoon when I check. Drove the jeep for a while, and when parked the drips were all back. Hoping some fresh eyes can give me an idea to go chase down.
 
The furthest forward and highest up place you find oil is the best bet. I would clean everything thoroughly before every time I drive it and look for the first hint of atf
 
Hear, I'm not the smartest guy on here but isn't there a seal around the shaft that is behind the torque converter?

Also, is it possible you have developed a pinhole leak at the welds on the torque converter.

Both of these would allow the front side to get wet from the fluid.
 
The furthest forward and highest up place you find oil is the best bet. I would clean everything thoroughly before every time I drive it and look for the first hint of atf

That's what I did, and it came back in all those places. The clean drips on cooler lines are the most suspicious and I can't account for how they get there, just that it happens while driving and not while it sits overnight.

Hear, I'm not the smartest guy on here but isn't there a seal around the shaft that is behind the torque converter?

Also, is it possible you have developed a pinhole leak at the welds on the torque converter.

Both of these would allow the front side to get wet from the fluid.

There is a seal at the pump where the torque converter goes in. I replaced that seal about a year ago, and that one will generally leak overnight and my paper towel was clean when I checked it today. The TC could very well have a pinhole leak, but the inspection plates are all there so it isn't responsible for it getting to the driveshaft in any appreciable amount.
 
I’m no wizard, but I would put money on the shift shaft seal is bad. You will need to drop the skid to get a good look at it.
 
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Mine leaks the same, after a reseal 3 or 4 times (IDK what DOR is doing since they cant fix a single issue I have)

Hell the one that gets me is my cooler lines "Leaking" at the radiator... everything is tight at the radiator and it still gets ATF on the bottom of it. Im about to just have it rebuilt again, even though it was rebuilt a few months before I purchased the jeep mid 2023.
 
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That's what I did, and it came back in all those places. The clean drips on cooler lines are the most suspicious and I can't account for how they get there, just that it happens while driving and not while it sits overnight.



There is a seal at the pump where the torque converter goes in. I replaced that seal about a year ago, and that one will generally leak overnight and my paper towel was clean when I checked it today. The TC could very well have a pinhole leak, but the inspection plates are all there so it isn't responsible for it getting to the driveshaft in any appreciable amount.

Can you clean this up spic and span and the next day examine for drips. Then run it for 15 minutes intervals inspecting after each session. Repeat until it is located.
 
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Mine leaks the same, after a reseal 3 or 4 times (IDK what DOR is doing since they cant fix a single issue I have)

Hell the one that gets me is my cooler lines "Leaking" at the radiator... everything is tight at the radiator and it still gets ATF on the bottom of it. Im about to just have it rebuilt again, even though it was rebuilt a few months before I purchased the jeep mid 2023.

DOR is your problem. it took them several attempts to fix a leaking pinion seal after they did a regear on my jeep. not even sure they replaced the seal the first two times i took jeep back. pinion seal was finally replaced but, they had no clue on how to fix a driveline vibration that starts around 60 mph. you need a new front driveshaft mark said. bought a new tom wood’s driveshaft and vibration is still there. wouldn’t recommend DOR to save my life.
 
DOR is your problem. it took them several attempts to fix a leaking pinion seal after they did a regear on my jeep. not even sure they replaced the seal the first two times i took jeep back. pinion seal was finally replaced but, they had no clue on how to fix a driveline vibration that starts around 60 mph. you need a new front driveshaft mark said. bought a new tom wood’s driveshaft and vibration is still there. wouldn’t recommend DOR to save my life.

They truly just ran my wallet to "fix" an issue... the only thing they were able to really fix was my RMS leak (I was not about to go through all that work in my non existent driveway) but my transmission, pinion seal, and poor steering came back within a month of simply driving to and from work at 45mph....

Im tempted to check out this shop I found close to me, near Collin Bros (Tried them to and same kinda deal) hopefully this shop knows a thing or two.... their lot is always full of nicely built TJs and YJs every time I drive by.

Just kinda tired of dumping money into what seems like a simple fix.
 
I’m no wizard, but I would put money on the shift shaft seal is bad. You will need to drop the skid to get a good look at it.

Same, except it's dry. It went bad on another TJ of mine and it was a bloody mess. This is different.
 
They truly just ran my wallet to "fix" an issue... the only thing they were able to really fix was my RMS leak (I was not about to go through all that work in my non existent driveway) but my transmission, pinion seal, and poor steering came back within a month of simply driving to and from work at 45mph....

Im tempted to check out this shop I found close to me, near Collin Bros (Tried them to and same kinda deal) hopefully this shop knows a thing or two.... their lot is always full of nicely built TJs and YJs every time I drive by.

Just kinda tired of dumping money into what seems like a simple fix.

well stop pissing your money away and lets troubleshoot.
 
Just kinda tired of dumping money into what seems like a simple fix.

It's a simple fix after the exhausting diagnosis.

95% of shops are parts changers. The other 5% don't advertise and are squirreled away behind some other big building so you can't see them from the street.

You either need to start a thread on your issue or continue swapping parts hoping to find the cause.
 
There is a seal at the pump where the torque converter goes in. I replaced that seal about a year ago, and that one will generally leak overnight and my paper towel was clean when I checked it today. The TC could very well have a pinhole leak, but the inspection plates are all there so it isn't responsible for it getting to the driveshaft in any appreciable amount.

Think I might have this problem on mine. Did you document any of the work to fix it on this forum?
 
I may have finally tracked this one down. It leaked down to the point where it was slipping hard getting it into the garage to look at it again today. So I cleaned everything up again, stuffed more paper towels everywhere, filled it back up, and let it idle while I did a mechnical oil pressure test (unrelated to this, sort of!). It ran for 15-20 min probably, and then I had to swap garage spots with my naked 97 due to inbound thunderstorms.

In that time, I found none of my paper towels had any trace of ATF on them, but I did again find a drip on the cooler lines. I had previously wiped them down, but I was a little cautious as to how I stuffed paper towels around the lines due the proximity to the exhaust. No need for a fire today. Anyway, the drip looks to be clean brand new ATF, and is on the bottom side of the bend around the exhaust & bellhousing. The paper towels were on top of the lines in this location, and the lines leading to/from this area appear to still be dry. So I'm guessing pinhole leak on the cooler lines? It all adds up with the other stuff I'm seeing. It could easily blow onto the driveshaft and get slung all over that area, which is exactly what I have going on. I'll check it again after letting it sit for a while.

I did find another leak, and I about freaked all the way out. After letting it idle and doing the oil pressure work I go underneath and to my horror I see a big puddle in my drip pan. Turns out I didn't have my oil pressure fitting tight enough. Whoops, and whew!

Now to shop for cooler lines.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts