Savvy off-road sold? (the unofficial Savvy customer support and Savvy rant thread)

Oh it's worse. But it's fine. One of the reasons I bought the one on their site is because it had a nice discrete level logo and no stupid backing panels all over the place. No vents. Looked professional and semi-OEM.

I'm guessing they moved the logo up and rotated it to make their branding more visible behind the tire. I'm going to be painting it all black anyway so really no big deal, just additional area to catch grime. Additional fastening hardware to rust.

Don't mind the bald baby tires, they're just for rolling it in and out of the garage.

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I'm not one to get angry at a company for things like this. I don't particularly mind small things that make no functional difference in a product. I do, however, call the company and at least have them acknowledge the shortcomings of expectation. It is their response to such that determines my feelings afterwards.

For example, the UCF front bumper I used to have was shipped with shoddy cardboard that was just wrapped around the bumper with packaging tape completely "coating" it. The bumper arrived with small but obvious gouges and slashes from tearing the box and hitting things in transport. Their website also promised sanded welds for a smooth look. The welds were not touched at all. I called Matt (or Mike, can't remember) and informed him no big deal for me, but would like him to know about it so other people don't see lazy packaging and damaged/ill-advertised products. He basically told me, "yeah things happen, oh well".

At that point, even if FluxOR didn't come out with a bumper, I was going to rid the UCF bumper and not recommend their products anymore due to the lack of care and service for an expensive piece of equipment.
 
Is there something stopping you from mounting the backing plate up front? You'd still have the ugly hardware, but you could cover up the logo and reduce the grime catching lip area.

I thought about that, but the backing plates are threaded with some sort of boss or nutserts. I'm not at home to check. I suppose the best solution if I wanted to go that route would just be to cut my own blanks and bolt them on the front side. I don't care that much.
 
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I thought about that, but the backing plates are threaded with some sort of boss or nutserts. I'm not at home to check. I suppose the best solution if I wanted to go that route would just be to cut my own blanks and bolt them on the front side. I don't care that much.

Swap the backing plate from each side and place them on the front. Thread the button cap screws from the back into the plates.
 
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I would do that or drill out the inserts and use nuts on the back before making my own blanks.

Id be tempted to make a couple cuts to remove the dirt catcher and bolt them on as normal.

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Id be tempted to make a couple cuts to remove the dirt catcher and bolt them on as normal.

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Would work, I just don't like the "edged" look. You can see it in the photo on the rear triangle as well. Was trying to offer a solution for a flush look like he originally wanted with minimal effort.

Granted I don't think there should be any effort involved because you should get what was advertised.
 
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5052 aluminum now?
That design looks to be of welded-plate construction, so 5052 would make sense. It's the go-to alloy for that type of construction because it is not heat-treatable so welding doesn't create heat affected zones of varying hardness (which creates stress-concentration-induced cracking). It is not nearly as strong as heat-treated 6061 (T6), though. Mr. Blaine's original design for Savvy using unwelded 6061-T6 is considerably stronger.
 
That design looks to be of welded-plate construction, so 5052 would make sense. It's the go-to alloy for that type of construction because it is not heat-treatable so welding doesn't create heat affected zones of varying hardness (which creates stress-concentration-induced cracking). It is not nearly as strong as heat-treated 6061 (T6), though. Mr. Blaine's original design for Savvy using unwelded 6061-T6 is considerably stronger.

Yes 5052 makes sense for welding. Does 5052 make sense as a bumper meant for smacking rocks is the question. Wasn't Genright the butt of the joke for using said 5052 on all of their products?
 
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Yes 5052 makes sense for welding. Does 5052 make sense as a bumper meant for smacking rocks is the question. Wasn't Genright the butt of the joke for using said 5052 on all of their products?

We figured out the Genright bumper same way @sab just dissected the Savvy JL bumper.
 
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It was more along the lines of confusing customers by claiming 6061 when it was fairly obvious that the construction methodology would not support that material selection.

The allure of looks and brand name seems to very often overpower proper material choices, attention to detail and sound design principles.
 
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Does 5052 make sense as a bumper meant for smacking rocks is the question.
I don't have an answer to that question because I've not yet "smacked rocks" with my LJ, so I have no way to determine what "strong enough" means; however, I trust Mr. Blaine's design, testing, and fabrication methods, and if he says it needs to be 6061-T6, then I take it to the bank.
 
I don't have an answer to that question because I've not yet "smacked rocks" with my LJ, so I have no way to determine what "strong enough" means; however, I trust Mr. Blaine's design, testing, and fabrication methods, and if he says it needs to be 6061-T6, then I take it to the bank.

I have not done personal testing either. Though I can say I've seen a few Genright aluminum front bumpers not hold up to a not so hard hit. Seems like it likes to "tear" quite easy after a few hits.
 
I don't have an answer to that question because I've not yet "smacked rocks" with my LJ, so I have no way to determine what "strong enough" means; however, I trust Mr. Blaine's design, testing, and fabrication methods, and if he says it needs to be 6061-T6, then I take it to the bank.
6061 T6 after a steady diet of JV style rocks.
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5052 after 1 trip to JV.
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