New TJ day! Now with added transmission failure pics!

In terms of difficulty, a re-gear falls somewhere between a transmission rebuild and paying Dallas Offroad to do it.

Oh trust me... Dallas Offroad has already taken my wallet.... $1500 rear main, oil pan, and trans pan gasket... my trans pan is leaking for the 3rd time now...

Had them replace it, then under their repair warranty, and once more at a transmission shop since I couldnt bother driving to the other side of Dallas for a 3rd time for a repair. Its now leaking all the time and I am fed up with having to reseal it, I just carry a bottle of ATF4+ in the back for when it gets low.... :ROFLMAO:

As for gearing, the price quotes are killer... I might as well just do it even though I dont want to pay more than what I got the jeep for just to have decent power.
 
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Oh trust me... Dallas Offroad has already taken my wallet.... $1500 rear main, oil pan, and trans pan gasket... my trans pan is leaking for the 3rd time now...

Had them replace it, then under their repair warranty, and once more at a transmission shop since I couldnt bother driving to the other side of Dallas for a 3rd time for a repair. Its now leaking all the time and I am fed up with having to reseal it, I just carry a bottle of ATF4+ in the back for when it gets low.... :ROFLMAO:

As for gearing, the price quotes are killer... I might as well just do it even though I dont want to pay more than what I got the jeep for just to have decent power.

Is your pan even square? Once I moved to a lube locker and started torquing it correctly (13 ft-lbs) I stopped having leaking issues. Also, are you CERTAIN it's the pan that is leaking? Nearly every potential leak on these things will eventually run to the lip of the pan, so every leak presents as a pan leak. Selector shaft seal is a common one that you wouldn't believe how much it will leak.
 
LET’S GOOOO

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We're planning to swap the entire units around. At least a few of them have recently been setup anyway. I did the 3.55 rear & 4.10 rear last summer. We don't know the status of the 4.56's, but that sounds like a problem for the guy who is taking ownership of them. :p

I know 3.55 was a 97 ratio. Do you know if it was in Dana 44's or d35s?

Or both?
 
I know 3.55 was a 97 ratio. Do you know if it was in Dana 44's or d35s?

Or both?

My 97 has a 44 with 3.55's. Daughter's 97 has a 35 with 3.55's......I'm pretty sure? I had to replace the pinion bearings last fall and I counted the teeth.
 
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My 97 has a 44 with 3.55's. Daughter's 97 has a 35 with 3.55's......I'm pretty sure? I had to replace the pinion bearings last fall and I counted the teeth.

Another exception to d44s in tjs only having 3.73. A member in Australia had 3.07(?) in a stock Dana 44, so exports are another.

@lBasket had 3.55 in his 97 Dana 35 too.

Not a bad ratio with stock tires
 
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Is your pan even square? Once I moved to a lube locker and started torquing it correctly (13 ft-lbs) I stopped having leaking issues. Also, are you CERTAIN it's the pan that is leaking? Nearly every potential leak on these things will eventually run to the lip of the pan, so every leak presents as a pan leak. Selector shaft seal is a common one that you wouldn't believe how much it will leak.

It was rebuilt before I bought it, and from what I read is that all gaskets were replaced. No clue if the pan is square....

The leak is at the rear of the pan, and it only looks like its the pan leaking. Ill have to get a closer look next time I crawl under. but from the last time I looked at it, it is the pan gasket leaking.
 
It's never easy. The direct drum should have 4 frictions, this one has 3. Adding a 4th & another steel puts me about 30 thou under the min clearance. Then on the rear drum I have the right number of clutches but I'm well over clearance. Haven't tried to add another clutch & steel there yet. Was hoping to have it all back together quickly but I also realized I didn't have all the parts to do the vent relocation. I have leftover parts from when I did mine, but the plugs I used in the pump breather are too small, they slip right through the opening. Have a bigger one coming this weekend.

And then the solenoid "nub" is broken so I need to replace it. Holy schnikies those things got expensive. Cheapest I can find is still about $70 shipped.
 
Oh trust me... Dallas Offroad has already taken my wallet.... $1500 rear main, oil pan, and trans pan gasket... my trans pan is leaking for the 3rd time now...

Had them replace it, then under their repair warranty, and once more at a transmission shop since I couldnt bother driving to the other side of Dallas for a 3rd time for a repair. Its now leaking all the time and I am fed up with having to reseal it, I just carry a bottle of ATF4+ in the back for when it gets low.... :ROFLMAO:

As for gearing, the price quotes are killer... I might as well just do it even though I dont want to pay more than what I got the jeep for just to have decent power.

wouldn’t mess with DOR anymore myself. took 3 two hour one way trips for them to get a front pinion seal leak fixed after regear, axle shafts and lockers.
 
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Yeah, was very surprised to see it had a 44 rear end. No telling what other surprises there are. When it's that cheap you figure out all the ways it could be a horrible deal, mitigate those, and discover everything else on your own time after you take possession.

It’s a Sahara,a lot of them had Dana 44 rear.
 
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Solved the clearance problems. I had my bin of pressure plates and snap rings out, preparing to find the combination that got the stacks to within spec but didn't end up needing any of that. My initial fitting re-used the old steels, not expecting to re-use them but I wanted to verify the clearance with the new clutches before I opened up more packages and had parts everywhere.

Front drum (the big one): it only had 3 frictions in it, which is weird to begin with. There are tons of online references to guys using thinner frictions and machining the pressure plate down to allow for a 5th friction, but nobody anywhere is running 3. We'll file that under "proof that somebody had been in here before me." I added the 4th steel and 4th friction but that put me over spec. Min clearance is 67 thou but I couldn't even get the 25 thou feeler in there....with the old steels. I finally realized I hadn't swapped in the new steels yet. Then like magic, I was within spec. 90 thou fit and 108 thou wouldn't, max is 134 so that one is money.

Rear drum (the one with the burned up clutches) looked to be under spec when I removed it but was also waaaay to tight during my intial fitment, probably due to the fact that the frictions weren't really frictions anymore. But at least it had the right number. With the new steels it got much better. This drum requires more precision, between 0.22" - 0.36" and you are supposed to use selective thickness snap rings....not that I have any idea how to track those down should I need them. Anyway 0.25" fit & 0.38" wouldn't so we're money here as well.

Side note. The first time I had one of these apart I was SUPER METICULOUS about what order everything went in, etc. I've done it enough times now that I'm now like the guys on the transmission rebuild videos, where they just take stuff out and throw it wherever because they already know how it goes back together without a second thought.


IMG_3376.jpeg
 
Solved the clearance problems. I had my bin of pressure plates and snap rings out, preparing to find the combination that got the stacks to within spec but didn't end up needing any of that. My initial fitting re-used the old steels, not expecting to re-use them but I wanted to verify the clearance with the new clutches before I opened up more packages and had parts everywhere.

Front drum (the big one): it only had 3 frictions in it, which is weird to begin with. There are tons of online references to guys using thinner frictions and machining the pressure plate down to allow for a 5th friction, but nobody anywhere is running 3. We'll file that under "proof that somebody had been in here before me." I added the 4th steel and 4th friction but that put me over spec. Min clearance is 67 thou but I couldn't even get the 25 thou feeler in there....with the old steels. I finally realized I hadn't swapped in the new steels yet. Then like magic, I was within spec. 90 thou fit and 108 thou wouldn't, max is 134 so that one is money.

Rear drum (the one with the burned up clutches) looked to be under spec when I removed it but was also waaaay to tight during my intial fitment, probably due to the fact that the frictions weren't really frictions anymore. But at least it had the right number. With the new steels it got much better. This drum requires more precision, between 0.22" - 0.36" and you are supposed to use selective thickness snap rings....not that I have any idea how to track those down should I need them. Anyway 0.25" fit & 0.38" wouldn't so we're money here as well.

Side note. The first time I had one of these apart I was SUPER METICULOUS about what order everything went in, etc. I've done it enough times now that I'm now like the guys on the transmission rebuild videos, where they just take stuff out and throw it wherever because they already know how it goes back together without a second thought.


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Magique.

This is cool thanks for sharing
 
Maybe I did know that after all. I don't mind them as much as you, apparently. :p

It's just preference. I think trucks and jeeps look better with raw textured flairs,not painted ones.Black is the only body color it doesn't bother me for some reason.Less plastic stuck on for aesthetics the better!

It also annoys me that if you pull those off all the holes for mounting them are visible.
 
Transmission is back together and on its way back to its mama.

I also did the breather relocate a slightly different way from before. I tapped the breather hole on the pump with a 1/8” NPT and found a similar sized short plug with a hex head. This allowed me to snug it up and ensure it clears the TC.

OF COURSE I forgot to take a picture of that.

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