Pentastar V6 in a TJ

cant you do a junk yard one ton swap for less than a set of those jk dana 44s?

Don't know... It was more of a JOKE....

And like mentioned a lot not everyone wants to go the full width 1 tons... 70"-72" wide is what you'll have to go with on 1 tons.
JK Dana 44's are 65" & JL/JT is 68" I think...
Part depends on what size tire you're wanting to run. That is the other question...

The whole width thing is part of why I haven't bought a pair of junk yard 1 tons. I'd either have to narrow the axles myself or buy some built axles since I want 65" wide max.
 
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Pentastar V6 . . . Has anyone done this re-power to a TJ?
Wondering the pro's & con's of a transplant into a 5sp. TJ.
Keep your TJ 'all Jeep' . . .
Thoughts . . .

Instead of one of those. I’ve thought about the newer V6 3L diesel. My dad has a JT with one. It seems like a solid engine, he likes it. Probably better post DEF removal though.
 
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Instead of one of those. I’ve thought about the newer V6 3L diesel. My dad has a JT with one. It seems like a solid engine, he likes it. Probably better post DEF removal though.

I ran a Grand Cherokee with that diesel for 7 years. It put out good power when tuned, but was a major PIA with all of the emissions BS. I'll never own a modern diesel again, unless I need one for raw pulling power in a full size PU. Even then I'd hesitate.
 
I ran a Grand Cherokee with that diesel for 7 years. It put out good power when tuned, but was a major PIA with all of the emissions BS. I'll never own a modern diesel again, unless I need one for raw pulling power in a full size PU. Even then I'd hesitate.

Same here, it’s really annoying. (Work truck constantly had DEF issues) But engines like Cummins 5.9 aren’t getting much mainstream support anymore. So you gotta consider whatchu wanna put in. Im a believer in 6 or 4 cylinders in a TJ, V8 (or inline 8) doesn’t seem right to me.
 
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Same here, it’s really annoying. (Work truck constantly had DEF issues) But engines like Cummins 5.9 aren’t getting much mainstream support anymore. So you gotta consider whatchu wanna put in. Im a believer in 6 or 4 cylinders in a TJ, V8 (or inline 8) doesn’t seem right to me.
Agreed. I just recently began break-in on a me-built 4.6 stroker (with tons of help from Russ Pottenger). That's my choice for added power in the TJ.
 
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Same here, it’s really annoying. (Work truck constantly had DEF issues) But engines like Cummins 5.9 aren’t getting much mainstream support anymore. So you gotta consider whatchu wanna put in. Im a believer in 6 or 4 cylinders in a TJ, V8 (or inline 8) doesn’t seem right to me.

Also run a tweaked 5.9 . . . workhorse/hotrod.
Is that little V6/3.0L diesel turbo'd ?
 
Got a P06DD? Change the oil pressure sensor. (requires removing both layers of the intake).

Still got a P06DD? Change the oil cooler housing. (requires removing both layers of the intake). Pray you don't crack it in the process, since it's plastic, and we all know how well plastic holds up to heat cycling.

Still got a P06DD? Replace the oil pump hi/lo solenoid. What's that? No, they don't actually sell that solenoid separate from the oil pump. And whatever the strongest adhesive on earth is doesn't hold a candle to the adhesive they presumably mined off the tail of some comet to glue the upper half of the oil pan to the block, because when has a gasket ever worked in the history of automotive design? My favorite part of this job is actually a tie: (a) the fact that you have to remove the lower timing gear to get the pump out and (b) the near impossibiity of fishing the solenoid wires from the timing chain area through the block and back out the side.

Still got a P06DD? You and everybody else, my dude.

This job takes like four hours, And Removing the intake is the easiest part of it. Recently replaced Oil coolers on my sisters 3.6 Journey and parents 3.6 JLU. It is not as bad as I was thinking it would be. Hardest part of the entire ordeal was cleaning all the oil and coolant that fills the valley once the cooler is removed.
 
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If I'm going to repower with a different Chrysler 6 cylinder, I'd look at the Hurricane inline 6 motors.

Standard output crate motor is 420HP and 468TQ for $10,500 and the HO version is 550HP and 531TQ for $13,500.

Let me see, what else can I light money on fire for? :unsure:
 
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If I'm going to repower with a different Chrysler 6 cylinder, I'd look at the Hurricane inline 6 motors.

Standard output crate motor is 420HP and 468TQ for $10,500 and the HO version is 550HP and 531TQ for $13,500.

Let me see, what else can I light money on fire for? :unsure:

No dipstick though!
 
This job takes like four hours, And Removing the intake is the easiest part of it. Recently replaced Oil coolers on my sisters 3.6 Journey and parents 3.6 JLU. It is not as bad as I was thinking it would be. Hardest part of the entire ordeal was cleaning all the oil and coolant that fills the valley once the cooler is removed.

It wasn't THAT BAD but it was nothing I wanted to do a 2nd time. And the coolant mess is a big no thanks.
 
I did my wife's JK twice. Tried ordering the Dorman and ended up with a Chinese knockoff, which I didn't realize until I had installed it. Then got to do it a second time. A vacuum pump cleans up the intake oil and coolant mess up quick.

-Mac
 
I did my wife's JK twice. Tried ordering the Dorman and ended up with a Chinese knockoff, which I didn't realize until I had installed it. Then got to do it a second time. A vacuum pump cleans up the intake oil and coolant mess up quick.

-Mac

You use the aluminum one? I got one for free off Amazon Vine. Worked at least long enough to sell the thing.
 
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You use the aluminum one? I got one for free off Amazon Vine. Worked at least long enough to sell the thing.

Some five letter something. I swear I ordered Dorman. Why I have zero trust with Amazon.

Started spewing oil almost immediately. I think we got a couple hundred miles out of it. Just enough to be outside the 30 day return window.

-Mac
 
Don't know... It was more of a JOKE....

And like mentioned a lot not everyone wants to go the full width 1 tons... 70"-72" wide is what you'll have to go with on 1 tons.
JK Dana 44's are 65" & JL/JT is 68" I think...
Part depends on what size tire you're wanting to run. That is the other question...

The whole width thing is part of why I haven't bought a pair of junk yard 1 tons. I'd either have to narrow the axles myself or buy some built axles since I want 65" wide max.

Cant you just use the center section and have new tubes cut?
 
Cant you just use the center section and have new tubes cut?

Again we're back to making custom width axles... You're better off to just have some custom axles made. There's some threads & videos about comparing the difference between JY or custom made.
 
Again we're back to making custom width axles... You're better off to just have some custom axles made. There's some threads & videos about comparing the difference between JY or custom made.

I dont mind full width axles but i can appreciate wanting stock width or so.

custom axles are 20k or more, a junk yard axle is like $600 and than some machine time to cut it to spec and have it welded back up i cant see that being more than a total of 2k per axle.

that said, im in canada so parts cost me twice as much as you.
 
I dont mind full width axles but i can appreciate wanting stock width or so.

custom axles are 20k or more, a junk yard axle is like $600 and than some machine time to cut it to spec and have it welded back up i cant see that being more than a total of 2k per axle.

that said, im in canada so parts cost me twice as much as you.

Full width axles don't work in the woods of WA... And I WISH I could buy a Dana 60 front for $600... They are $1,000 to $1,500 here in WA and then another $500-$800 for a 14 bolt or Sterling rear axle. And you have to buy parts to refurb those JY axles next. Once you add it all up when include the price of a R&P & lockers you're pretty close to the cost of custom axles. Now once you've narrowed those JY axles you will also need custom axle shafts. This is how those JY axles end up costing you close to custom axles. I've played with the numbers. And I can do most of the fab work myself so I'm not paying a shop for that.
 
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Full width axles don't work in the woods of WA... And I WISH I could buy a Dana 60 front for $600... They are $1,000 to $1,500 here in WA and then another $500-$800 for a 14 bolt or Sterling rear axle. And you have to buy parts to refurb those JY axles next. Once you add it all up when include the price of a R&P & lockers you're pretty close to the cost of custom axles. Now once you've narrowed those JY axles you will also need custom axle shafts. This is how those JY axles end up costing you close to custom axles. I've played with the numbers. And I can do most of the fab work myself so I'm not paying a shop for that.

Im not far from yah, im on vancouver island. the mainland trails the full widths work because have a huge buggy crowd same with the island. lots of full width guys here thankfully

fair enough. ill be happy with some 44s from a rubicon i think. my jku will get full width when the diesel goes in.