To lock or not to lock

[Joe Broke It]

Hello all. I've got a whole laundry list of things to fix. I plan on starting the whole dance around the end of this month. Sorry for the long post...

Currently we're lifted 4.5" and on 33" tires. We're rocking the 6-speed, and ...3.07 gears... So regearing is going to happen. I've decided to go with 4.56 after hours of back and forth on forums.

I need new carriers for the front and rear: Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear. I am not sure if I want to get open differentials right now and save some coin, or if I want to just do it right the first time and put (enter suggestions here) in the back and a PowerTrax No-Slip in the front.

What's y'all's opinions on how best to go about this? I'm assuming that if I regear the front and rear end now with open diffs, I won't have to do the whole backlash and gear mesh tedium when I replace the boring open carriers with less-boring options.

This jeep will be a daily driver when I've got it all ironed out. So I reckon an elocker in the back would be most ideal? But, I'm considering a TruTrac because I'd prefer the vehicle more versatile in all conditions. I will see all manners of rain, snow, ice, mud, trails, etc... Basically everything except knarly rock crawling... for now... It's more important to me that I can drive this Jeep from Arkansas to Michigan than it is for it to rock crawl.

For those that are curious, my to do list is:

Regear front and rear to 4.56
Cut and Weld rust repair on belly behind drive seat (common spot I'm learning)
remove and rust repair hood
Tcase control cable upgrade
Door seals
Tail Light replacement and re-wire
Compressor relocate/air tank delete
fresh sauce all around
hard top seals

I will be doing all of it myself

 

[KennethS]

I have a lunchbox locker in front and I was a bit concerned about 4WD driving in slippery conditions (snow and ice) when I headed up north. But since I’m in the lowlands where it never snows and go up north a lot less than I off-road in the low desert, I went ahead and did it and it’s awesome on desert trails, both rocks and dirt. I’ll have to let someone else comment about driving in 4WD on icy/snowy roads with a front locker as I have not done it yet.

 

[Rickyd]

If you are spending any money on the Dana 35 for traction aids it should be for a super 35. The 27 spline shafts are a ticking time bomb with larger than stock tires

 

[John Cooper]

Super 35 the rear with an Eaton E locker.

Honestly I would install selectable lockers front and rear

 

[Wildman]

Based on what you said I'll disagree with everyone and suggest the No-Slip in the front & a TruTrac in the rear with upgraded shafts. If you don't plan on going above 33" tires some then some 1541 shafts would be fine. Now if you think you might want to go to a larger tire even if it's 5 years from now then yes do a Super35 kit.

 

[Joe Broke It]

I'm not against a super35 kit. I'm also not against saving a little money here and there. I love the idea of bulletproofing. I also have no intentions of going up in tire size. The Jeep is plenty tall enough as it sits.

 

[Wildman]

I'm not against a super35 kit. I'm also not against saving a little money here and there. I love the idea of bulletproofing. I also have no intentions of going up in tire size. The Jeep is plenty tall enough as it sits.

If you don't wheel hard & plan on staying with 33" tires then the 1541 shafts are strong enough. And there's more than one person who has ran them with 33's with no problems.
The Super35 only comes with auto lockers or selectable lockers. If you want the TruTrac you have to stay with 27 spline shafts.

 

[MikekiM]

4.56 with 33's is a great choice. I drive it everyday and have zero complaints. Like you, no plans to go larger than 33's.

I did LSD's. But mine is a DD. If I had plans to be wheeling it harder I would have gone selectable lockers.

The t-case cable is a great upgrade. I did it just before the NV3550 grenaded. Easy mod but would have been a lot easier with the transmission out. Who knew that's where I'd be a few months later.

 

[Rickyd]

Based on what you said I'll disagree with everyone and suggest the No-Slip in the front & a TruTrac in the rear with upgraded shafts. If you don't plan on going above 33" tires some then some 1541 shafts would be fine. Now if you think you might want to go to a larger tire even if it's 5 years from now then yes do a Super35 kit.

You're talking about him spending 1000$ for a limited slip and 27 spline axles. For 3-700$ more depending on locker choice, he can have a super 35.

 

[Wildman]

You're talking about him spending 1000$ for a limited slip and 27 spline axles. For 3-700$ more depending on locker choice, he can have a super 35.

That isn't the point here... And are you sure about the prices? I haven't looked in a while..

If you don't want either an auto locker or selectable locker then a Super35 might not be the best option.

 

[Joe Broke It]

Revolution Gear and Axle have a dana 30 and 35 rebuild kit for 4.56 gears marked at $603. The TruTrac from them also is at $600.

the 30-spline Eaton Elocker for the Dana 35 alone is above 1200. The 30-spline axle kit from Revolution is $370.

Going with the TruTrac on the rear would be roughly $900. Doing a Super35 upgrade would run me $1500.

Is that extra cost worth doing for 33" tires on a Jeep I don't plan to hang from one wheel?

 

[Wildman]

Yes you might find things cheaper somewhere else but I'm just using Quadratec as a example.

TruTrac 27 spline $604

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16100_604.htm
ARB 30 Spline $1114
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16100_2007_07.htm
E-Locker 30 spline $1350
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16100_1014_07.htm

 

[Wildman]

Revolution Gear and Axle have a dana 30 and 35 rebuild kit for 4.56 gears marked at $603. The TruTrac from them also is at $600.

the 30-spline Eaton Elocker for the Dana 35 alone is above 1200. The 30-spline axle kit from Revolution is $370.

Going with the TruTrac on the rear would be roughly $900. Doing a Super35 upgrade would run me $1500.

Is that extra cost worth doing for 33" tires on a Jeep I don't plan to hang from one wheel?

You'd still want some 1541H shafts also.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/26125_0004_07.htm

Shafts from Revolution $370

https://revolutiongear.com/revoluti...ies-1993-06-tj-yj-xj-rear-axle-kit-27-spline/

 

[Joe Broke It]

You'd still want some 1541H shafts also.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/26125_0004_07.htm

Shafts from Revolution $370

https://revolutiongear.com/revoluti...ies-1993-06-tj-yj-xj-rear-axle-kit-27-spline/

So If I went with the TruTrac, I'd still want to replace the axles? Are these shafts that much stronger than the stock ones?

 

[Wildman]

So If I went with the TruTrac, I'd still want to replace the axles? Are these shafts that much stronger than the stock ones?

With 33" tires yes you should replace the axles. They say they're 11-20% stronger than stock depending on who you ask.

 

[basedbb69]

@Joe Broke It Stock dana 35 shafts are a bad time waiting to happen

I'm gonna be the odd man out here and say, pull the dana 35 out and get an 8.8 or if you got the money, a dana 44.

 

[Wildman]

@Joe Broke It Stock dana 35 shafts are a bad time waiting to happen

View attachment 601417

I'm gonna be the odd man out here and say, pull the dana 35 out and get an 8.8 or if you got the money, a dana 44.

While I'm not a huge Dana 35 supporter I'll say from his usage description the Dana 35 would be fine. A 8.8 isn't a good option.

 

[basedbb69]

@Wildman I guess it depends cause my 8.8 was 300$ with brakes, bracket kit was 100$, and driveshaft adapter was 50$. So like 400$ for a much better axle than a super 35, and half the cost. Lot of work do weld the brackets and swap but it's worth it. I know people are gonna hate on me for this opinion but it's a great axle

Plus with super 35 you still need to get a disk brake kit or get c clip eliminators or you could still end up like me in that picture

 

[Wildman]

@Wildman I guess it depends cause my 8.8 was 300$ with brakes, bracket kit was 100$, and driveshaft adapter was 50$. So like 400$ for a much better axle than a super 35, and half the cost. Lot of work do weld the brackets and swap but it's worth it. I know people are gonna hate on me for this opinion but it's a great axle

Plus with super 35 you still need to get a disk brake kit or get c clip eliminators or you could still end up like me in that picture

Look I'm a fan of the 8.8 in the right application. If you've got the skills & tools to cut off the old brackets and then weld on the new brackets or truss kit that's great but if you don't then that's added money. They are heavier & hang down lower than the Dana 35 or Dana 44 but you can shave a little off them too.

The 8.8 is still a C-clip axle like the Dana 35 or Super35 unless you get a C-clip eliminator for it.

 

[basedbb69]

Look I'm a fan of the 8.8 in the right application. If you've got the skills & tools to cut off the old brackets and then weld on the new brackets or truss kit that's great but if you don't then that's added money. They are heavier & hang down lower than the Dana 35 or Dana 44 but you can shave a little off them too.

The 8.8 is still a C-clip axle like the Dana 35 or Super35 unless you get a C-clip eliminator for it.

I hear ya, but the disk brakes will retain the axle, which would allow you to get somewhere safely and not have a axle fall out. But yeah the super 35 with disk brakes or c clip eliminator would have the same effect but at that point you're 2000$ in and could've got your hand on a dana 44. Anyways I guess I'm just traumatized by dana 35s after what happened to me