I don't remember entirely honestly. I don't recall it being a huge difference, if I'm remembering it right one was better for muddy environments. Sorry I can't remember clearer.
02 modified TJ, I don’t know where its going rebuild
- Thread starter HWNPUNCH
- Start date
I don't remember entirely honestly. I don't recall it being a huge difference, if I'm remembering it right one was better for muddy environments. Sorry I can't remember clearer.
No nut welding required, got out, hammered bigger bit in, kroil helped busted easy. Inch low about?
For my records
Rear drive
Tom woods driveshaft specified $430.00 out the door T-shirt $30
Long Arm Poly bushing ball joint kit x 4 ( just for rear, front later) $68.00ea = $272 plus tax shipping
A-frame Truss Uniball joint kit $60.00 plus tax shipping, need to capture frame attach pivots part # total approx $450.00
T-case ?
Rear Diff new ARB seal housing $120.00, hopefully just carrier reshim, plenty of those. $500.00 for buddy to do, just might. Dropping it anyhow.
Rear shock rebuild kits $30 ea plus tax shipping total $ 80.00?
Rock Hard harness bar with straps $250.00
New driver Harness? 120?
?Sway bar bushings?
Got rear brake rebuild kit
Tranny good for now, auxiliary cooler?
Tranny mount ?
More Eastwood Rust encapsulation, ok for now.
$1300.00
Rear drive
Tom woods driveshaft specified $430.00 out the door T-shirt $30
Long Arm Poly bushing ball joint kit x 4 ( just for rear, front later) $68.00ea = $272 plus tax shipping
A-frame Truss Uniball joint kit $60.00 plus tax shipping, need to capture frame attach pivots part # total approx $450.00
T-case ?
Rear Diff new ARB seal housing $120.00, hopefully just carrier reshim, plenty of those. $500.00 for buddy to do, just might. Dropping it anyhow.
Rear shock rebuild kits $30 ea plus tax shipping total $ 80.00?
Rock Hard harness bar with straps $250.00
New driver Harness? 120?
?Sway bar bushings?
Got rear brake rebuild kit
Tranny good for now, auxiliary cooler?
Tranny mount ?
More Eastwood Rust encapsulation, ok for now.
$1300.00
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Dang I didn't know there was a shirt. I like to buy shirts to go with my parts when available
I forgot to mention, basically removed all this to get a clear approach to t-case filler port. Tuffy drawer box to get compressor out to get to air tank bolts under driver seat which was in front of t-case. Compressor between driver seat and box. I am pretty sure I will be selling the cargo drawer box and compressor and tank. Another 800.00 for new ARB twin motor compressor and their 1 gallon Al tank. So..Arb system and air-up down.
Drawer using for temp put stuff place, older Box welded, not bolted like new ones. Pretty heavy, Have more small drawer dividers, tracks need work.
Won’t sell compressor and tank until I get new in my hands.
Drawer using for temp put stuff place, older Box welded, not bolted like new ones. Pretty heavy, Have more small drawer dividers, tracks need work.
Won’t sell compressor and tank until I get new in my hands.
Most will tell you that a air tank isn't needed as it doesn't help with filling tires. It's been discussed a lot and some members have tested to see if a tank helped any.
Thanks, i can just plumb my compressor back in until get a new one. I do have a manifold for arb.
Not a very good photo, but, is that a remote starter solenoid? In front of arb Gauge. Seen one in a power wagon before.
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Yes you can just plumb your compressor into the manifold to run your ARB's. As to what that solenoid is for is just a wild guess without being able to trace the wires to see what they go to. So I'd suggest you trace the wires out and see if you can figure out what it was for.
I was checking out your Facelift thread
What is your skid drop distance and clearance between t-case and skid?
I have a UCF 2" drop DIY skid which means that it doesn't have the center brace for a stock transmission to rest on since I have a crossmember. I'll have to measure how much room I have under my t-case, but remember my t-case isn't stock...
I have a STaK's 3 speed Monster box
This is how big it is.
I did not look closely, I thought it is a Behemouth D300, no need to measure. I will just fix what i got for now. You have built a nice RIG!
OK. Thanks. It's taken me a lot longer than I'd originally thought it was going to take.
STaK's came about in 2005 I think it was and offered a 2 speed like and Atlas & a 3 speed t-case so I have 3.05 & 5.44 low range ratios. They did offer other ratios but I went with the deepest I could. They were also the first company I think to offer a replacement case for the D300. Unfortunately they had some issues with the 3 speed boxes and either couldn't or wouldn't fix the problem so after about 4 years they went under. I'm on my 3rd t-case due to some issues I had but I got them replaced under warranty. But this this is HUGE. If you've ever seen a NP205 the STaK's is larger than it.
One thing to know about the D300, with some auto transmission you could have driveshaft clearance issues since the spread from centerline of the input to the front output isn't wide enough. You won't with the 32RH but it's been mentioned on here before that this has happened.
Behemouth wasn't around when I'd started building my TJ in 2005. If I was building it from the start now I'm sure I'd go a few different ways than I did back then.
I am going to order those FABTECH parts next week, you have go to source to suggest. FABTECK said any 4x4 shop.
I'd say whoever you can get the best deal on them from? 4 Wheel Parts? Or Quadratec would be my first options. There are some smaller shops that might give you a better deal.
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