05 Flame Red TJ Build

[Irun]

I've been considering getting some dedicated crimpers. I got a hydraulic one for big stuff and it made me feel like my small one was lacking, how do you like that?

Doesn't look significantly different than what I use now but looks way easier to use. Here's what I have:
View attachment 589745
The crimper works decent but is a real pain to use. Yours looks pointier.

I had one similar to yours and after using the Klein tool, I realized how much my old one sucked. So much so that I threw it out. The new one provides a tremendous amount of flexibility for most of the stuff I'd ever use it for. These are the 3 areas I use most, depending on the size of the connector.

 

[Apparition]

I had one like yours and after using the Klein tool, I realized how much my old one sucked. So much so that I threw it out. The new one provides a tremendous amount of flexibility for most of the stuff I'd ever use it for. These are the 3 areas I use most, depending on the size of the connector.

View attachment 589751

I also have the Klein, it’s a good tool

 

[lBasket]

I had one like yours and after using the Klein tool, I realized how much my old one sucked. So much so that I threw it out. The new one provides a tremendous amount of flexibility for most of the stuff I'd ever use it for. These are the 3 areas I use most, depending on the size of the connector.

View attachment 589751

Ooo. Thanks for pointing that out - I was thinking it was a 1 size fits all. So this is probably way better. One day hopefully I'll replace it with one of those autosizing strippers and something like this

 

[MikeE024]

I use the plier style Klein tool in tighter spaces and this ratcheting style as well (there are multiple versions available). The heat-shrink version is excellent...haven't used the non-insulated version, but my guess is it works great as well.

 

[lBasket]

I used that style Klein tool in tighter spaces and this one as well (there are multiple versions).

Oh what. You use this on butt connectors? That looks exactly like the metripak crimper I have.

 

[JMT]

Ooo. Thanks for pointing that out - I was thinking it was a 1 size fits all. So this is probably way better. One day hopefully I'll replace it with one of those autosizing strippers and something like this

This Klein is very similar to @Irun, but it also has some strippers (and who doesn’t like strippers?) No burritos though. Wish it had burritos.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WTRVZ18?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[MikeE024]

Oh what. You use this on butt connectors? That looks exactly like the metripak crimper I have.

Yea I use them both for butt connectors.

However, I didn’t know they also offer crimpers specifically for heat shrink connectors so I just bought that version to see how I like them.

 

[MikeE024]

This Klein is very similar to @Irun, but it also has some strippers (and who doesn’t like strippers?) No burritos though. Wish it had burritos.

Maybe I'm just programed this way from repairing wires on Tomcats, but I prefer to strip stranded wires using a razor blade. When it comes to wiring, few things annoy me more than a stripper stretching the insulation or hacking off some of the strands.

 

[JMT]

Maybe I'm just programed this way from repairing wires on Tomcats, but I prefer to strip stranded wires using a razor blade. When it comes to wiring, few things annoy me more than a stripper stretching the insulation or hacking off some of the strands.

I think you’re just wired that way. I do 14ga and larger wire with a razor blade, but for the 16-22ga stuff I just use the strippers. It’s pretty rare I leave some insulation, but I just pull it off. I’d have to practice to use a razor blade efficiently.

 

[JMT]

@psrivats. Update on the John Audette Porsche Ozram H4 250 bulbs in the Toyota Kioto Housings. Warning : Bulbs cost 3x’s the housing .

Nice packaging

High output 60/50w bulb so you don’t require the relays.

John Audette on left and Sylvania H4 100/80 on right

John Audette on left and Sylvania H4 100/80 on right. You can’t tell a difference in brightness. The John Audette’s are slightly cooler than the Sylvania’s which are 3200. I’m happy about that.

Both John Audette’s.

Now to try to find a location to aim my headlights. Finding 25ft of flat ground with a large wall in front is easier said than done.

 

[MikeE024]

Update on the John Audette Porsche Ozram H4 250 bulbs in the Toyota Kioto Housings. Warning : Bulbs cost 3x’s the housing .

Nice packaging
View attachment 590139
High output 60/50w bulb so you don’t require the relays.
View attachment 590140
John Audette on left and Sylvania H4 100/80 on right
View attachment 590141
John Audette on left and Sylvania H4 100/80 on right. You can’t tell a difference in brightness. The John Audette’s are slightly cooler than the Sylvania’s which are 3200. I’m happy about that.

View attachment 590142
Both John Audette’s.
View attachment 590143

Now to try to find a location to aim my headlights. Finding 25ft of flat ground with a large wall in front is easier said than done.

I’ve had good luck setting my lights against the backside of a grocery store or large big box store.

 

[JMT]

I’ve had good luck setting my lights against the backside of a grocery store or large big box store.

That’s it! I can do that. Thanks for the idea.

 

[psrivats]

@psrivats. Update on the John Audette Porsche Ozram H4 250 bulbs in the Toyota Kioto Housings. Warning : Bulbs cost 3x’s the housing .

Nice packaging
View attachment 590139
High output 60/50w bulb so you don’t require the relays.
View attachment 590140
John Audette on left and Sylvania H4 100/80 on right
View attachment 590141
John Audette on left and Sylvania H4 100/80 on right. You can’t tell a difference in brightness. The John Audette’s are slightly cooler than the Sylvania’s which are 3200. I’m happy about that.

View attachment 590142
Both John Audette’s.
View attachment 590143

Now to try to find a location to aim my headlights. Finding 25ft of flat ground with a large wall in front is easier said than done.

Thanks for the report back. Photos of lit up bulbs are always hard (your camera, then my monitor) and unless there is a very obvious difference (like sealed beams vs say Trucklites) it becomes hard to see. Are you able to see that the beam pattern is nice without bizarre splotches? That makes for a good experience while driving imo.

If you decide they aren't very special (and decide to run Sylvanias or another bulb) I will buy them off you. I know someone here to me locally that likes them and will take them. Just message me anytime if you want to explore that option.

One of the nicer things I did after I got my Forester was to get a pair of aftermarket projector headlights. The difference compared to the stock setup on a 20+ year old car was soooooo good. If those projector optics didn't make a 7" headlight look like alien bug eyes those would be the best option light quality wise.

 

[MikeE024]

One of the nicer things I did after I got my Forester was to get a pair of aftermarket projector headlights. The difference compared to the stock setup on a 20+ year old car was soooooo good. If those projector optics didn't make a 7" headlight look like alien bug eyes those would be the best option light quality wise.

@JMT get these and send your lights to Sri (everyone wins).

 

[JMT]

Are you able to see that the beam pattern is nice without bizarre splotches?

The iPhone 14 was unable to detect much of the minor color difference that I could more easily detect with my eye, even when I lengthened the exposure time.

While switching between low and high beam it highlighted the dramatic difference between the beam pattern even without a solid flat surface in front of the Jeep. I look forward to aiming the headlights and night driving to see the difference in real time.

 

[MikeE024]

The iPhone 14 was unable to detect much of the minor color difference that I could more easily detect with my eye, even when I lengthened the exposure time.

While switching between low and high beam it highlighted the dramatic difference between the beam pattern even without a solid flat surface in front of the Jeep. I look forward to aiming the headlights and night driving to see the difference in real time.

I know what you mean about the camera. My phone’s software adjustments made it difficult to capture the lighting improvements after adding flood lights.

 

[JMT]

I know what you mean about the camera. My phone’s software adjustments made it difficult to capture the lighting improvements after adding flood lights.

It’s like saying, listen to my stereo through the internet. It sounds amazing!

 

[MikeE024]

It’s like saying, listen to my stereo through the internet. It sounds amazing!

"Just added a dozen ported 15" subwoofers...what do you guys think?!!!"

 

[JMT]

Central to my evolving build philosophy is clean setups. Why even do the project if you’re going to half ass it? I’ve had to go back and clean things up more than a dozen times. I think it was @mrblaine telling me about non-insulated butt connectors and how to properly sheath my engine harness that got me to start slowing down and thinking things through.

I was tired of the handheld GMRS units and because Moab trip is around the corner I researched the forum. A lot of praise for the Midland MXT275, so I asked for one for Christmas. Nobody got it for me so I just bought one a few weeks ago.

There are some good ideas out there for install. One is to install a Cat 5/6 female plug in the dash in place of one of the 12V plugs. I stole that brilliance.

Another good idea is the install of the base unit in the driver footwell up on the wall. There’s nothing there and it just fits and you can still detach it from the bracket rather easily. I stole that idea too.

The biggest issue for me is the antenna. Remember “clean” installs is right at the top of what I’m trying to accomplish. I read a lot about antennas and lots of people trying other antennas but getting really good SWR readings from the small magnetic mount that comes with the unit. I’m not planning to use it for anything but trail comms, so I set out to find a spot.

I don’t want the wire showing, so I tried the stock radio antenna solution and that sucks for more than one reason. Rear driver corner inside sucks. Rear corner outside corner sucks to me because I don’t want the bracket sticking off my driver back corner. I’ve always hated those though I have one in the attic from the CB days.

I asked @bobthetj03 if I could mount it inside the cowl and have sufficient signal for trail comms. He thought it would be fine. So, I went to work finding a way to get the 3/4” connector from inside the cowl to inside the firewall and to the base unit. On the driver side inside the cowl up high the windshield wiper motor wires pass through a grommet. I discovered that if you go just below that and not next to it (where it’s a double layer of metal) you can drill a hole there. I had a 1” grommet and was able to get the hole drilled. It turned out like this.

Then all I had to do was decide which hole in the cowl vent I wanted to poke a small hole in for the antenna to stick through. It’s about 2/3” taller than the cowl. It really turned out great and everything works.

Now I can unplug the walkie talkie portion and stow it away until I need it on a trail.

Pretty happy with this one. Yeah, my thumb bends in weird ways. Quit looking at it.

 

[All 4 Wheelin']

Central to my evolving build philosophy is clean setups. Why even do the project if you’re going to half ass it? I’ve had to go back and clean things up more than a dozen times. I think it was @mrblaine telling me about non-insulated butt connectors and how to properly sheath my engine harness that got me to start slowing down and thinking things through.

I was tired of the handheld GMRS units and because Moab trip is around the corner I researched the forum. A lot of praise for the Midland MXT275, so I asked for one for Christmas. Nobody got it for me so I just bought one a few weeks ago.

There are some good ideas out there for install. One is to install a Cat 5/6 female plug in the dash in place of one of the 12V plugs. I stole that brilliance.
View attachment 592747
Another good idea is the install of the base unit in the driver footwell up on the wall. There’s nothing there and it just fits and you can still detach it from the bracket rather easily. I stole that idea too.
View attachment 592748
The biggest issue for me is the antenna. Remember “clean” installs is right at the top of what I’m trying to accomplish. I read a lot about antennas and lots of people trying other antennas but getting really good SWR readings from the small magnetic mount that comes with the unit. I’m not planning to use it for anything but trail comms, so I set out to find a spot.

I don’t want the wire showing, so I tried the stock radio antenna solution and that sucks for more than one reason. Rear driver corner inside sucks. Rear corner outside corner sucks to me because I don’t want the bracket sticking off my driver back corner. I’ve always hated those though I have one in the attic from the CB days.

I asked @bobthetj03 if I could mount it inside the cowl and have sufficient signal for trail comms. He thought it would be fine. So, I went to work finding a way to get the 3/4” connector from inside the cowl to inside the firewall and to the base unit. On the driver side inside the cowl up high the windshield wiper motor wires pass through a grommet. I discovered that if you go just below that and not next to it (where it’s a double layer of metal) you can drill a hole there. I had a 1” grommet and was able to get the hole drilled. It turned out like this.
View attachment 592749View attachment 592750
Then all I had to do was decide which hole in the cowl vent I wanted to poke a small hole in for the antenna to stick through. It’s about 2/3” taller than the cowl. It really turned out great and everything works.
View attachment 592751View attachment 592752
Now I can unplug the walkie talkie portion and stow it away until I need it on a trail. View attachment 592753
Pretty happy with this one.

I used the goast antenna and mounted it inside the cab on pass side dash cross bar.