ChasUGC
TJ Enthusiast
It looks to me like you have all the bass that you need.
DIY Speaker Pods
- Thread starter FultonD33
- Start date
It looks to me like you have all the bass that you need.
ChasUGC
TJ Enthusiast
Actually Boogieman, pods aren't a bad idea for dash speakers, just not for bass. I have a subwoofer box in my trunk too, and I added some polyfil to my front speakers to help improve the soundstage because the rear speakers were overpowering them. I chose polyfil because I could tailor just the right amount of additional sound that was needed to balance my rear speakers. More polyfil=more volume. Now, I can hear the front and rear speakers equally at zero fade. With Pods you can't do that because you are stuck with the way they come made. Pods can also help to increase the speaker volume because you don't lose sound out of the rear of the speakers. This way you can increase the volume without increasing distortion.
I might try some polyfil. I tried the foam enclosures and they did absolutely nothing, that I can hear. I wasted $8 on them.
ChasUGC
TJ Enthusiast
I might try some polyfil. I tried the foam enclosures and they did absolutely nothing, that I can hear. I wasted $8 on them.
Yeah polyfil is really cheap. Some of those baffles can be $30-40 a pair. I stuffed it in some zipped throw pillow cases because I didn't want to risk breathing any fibers and stuffed a pillow with the polyfil in it behind each speaker. The pillow cases were like $5 a pair and the polyfil was $5-10 dollars at a Walmart. I had to take some polyfil out because the sound overpowered my rear speakers too much. Good luck.
I measured the box.
24” length
3” height at the rear
5.5” height at the front
11” width
It is very snug under the rear seat.
Man, that is a good question. I do not know either. I know we moved away from a metal to metal connection. Trying to think here and I guess the squishy body mounts are still safe even though they deform, so maybe this is okay.
IDK
Man, that is a good question. I do not know either. I know we moved away from a metal to metal connection. Trying to think here and I guess the squishy body mounts are still safe even though they deform, so maybe this is okay.
Why not get a set of these and not have that doubt?
https://buchananprecisionmachine.co...eat-riser-kit-for-tj-style-wrangler-1997-2006
Man, that is a good question. I do not know either. I know we moved away from a metal to metal connection. Trying to think here and I guess the squishy body mounts are still safe even though they deform, so maybe this is okay.
My head went straight to my control arm that was ruined cos the lock nut got loose - if the wood compresses permanently is it the same scenario with threads that are no longer tight? Idk.
This is for the rear seat. It’s on my son’s TJ. It’s what he did. I just mentioned it because he got a 10” slimline sub under the rear seat. I have 1/2” aluminum spacers under mine for a little more clearance for my 8”. His are wood and about 1”.
A certain amount of friction can build up until the material deforms. Wood is certainly a softer material than steel. LOL. But the bolt only passes through the wood. It actually uses the factory bracket to press against. So, I don’t think the wood is squishing that much due to the surface area of the factory bracket being much larger than the bolt hole.
This would ensure a solid seat anchor and also create a little breathing room for a shallow box too.
I don’t think a perfectly rectangular box would work with most slimline subs unless it was a 6 3/4”. To figure out the wedge design I stacked 2x4’s and 1x2’s under the rear seat toward the front and then the rear and each time tried to latch the seat to see if that thickness would fit. When I found that 3” was the max in the rear and 5.5” in the front, then I checked to see if the top mounted sub in an MDF box would fit without the magnet hitting the back of the box (bottom). It would just barely clear, so I went for it. To get within the recommended cf of volume for the sub I used 1/2” MDF rather than the usually suggested 3/4”. I think if I were doing it again I would make the box 3-4” longer. So, rather than 24” I think the max length is 28”. Why not? That space is doing nothing and it would give a bit more volume.
There are two support metal rods on the bottom of the seat (at least in ‘05), and I simply bent them out so the sub would have room and not be damaged by them. Has been there a good long while. Important to add the speaker grille for two reasons: 1) so people sitting in the back seat don’t compress the seat into the sub. It will muffle it and you’ll hear no bass and 2) to give some more air clearance above the sub for better sound. If you research subs on the interwebs you'll find that you ideally want at least 4” of air above the sub. That will never happen in a TJ in that location. I find mine to be fine with far less.
Post up your final results. I did finally cover my sub box with carpet. It turned out pretty good.
Hello from Michigan. I recently bought a 97 TJ and the stock system is complete trash. Compelled to update the head unit and probably the speakers as well. Recently bought a Tuffy center console built to accommodate a 6.5 sub. FB marketplace seems to have lots of great deals. I have the top down 8 months a year. I've read this thread 2x and have learned a lot, but would be grateful for some guidance in building a decent sound system. TYIA
How big of a sub box can you fit behind the drivers seat and still recline? I feel something facing my lower back like this would be perfect because I could feel it and sill recline vs down firing sub. ALL INPUT US WELCOME!
I have a dual 10" in my way back and I feel it throughout the cabin.
That Kicker is great choice, look at their dual 12" boxes and throw it in the way back. I made a quick disconnect so when I need the rear cargo space you can easily remove.
My 2 cents...
Go measure and see if you can get a 39" wide box in the rear footwell. You will get your answer very quickly.
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