How does your parking brake work ? Ours use the shoes for the parking brake .
What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
How does your parking brake work ? Ours use the shoes for the parking brake .
Installed wireless remote for the winch
Good luck with that. Mine lasted six months and died. Called Warn. They didn't have any replacements. Said call back later. I did. Then they said my one year warranty was up and sorry.
I bought a $13 remote from Amazon and wired it in and it's so much more reliable.
-Mac
Slab City maybeUntil Cali lets them loose again. I wonder if they get sanctuary city status.
Well SHIZZLE! I've always had good luck with Warn products so we'll see.
Which one from Amazon do you have? I've been looking at a couple for my Rough Country winch but haven't decided on one yet.
Its compatible with the air conditioner!
Its been 4-1/2 years since I last messed with the rear drum brakes, had to get myself re-trained. The new cylinder is installed, and the {INSERT EXPLETIVE HERE} brake is re-assembled - with the self-adjuster spring in the correct orientation this time. Then I had a panic because it looked like the adjuster pawl was too short or something - its kinda dark where I'm doing this. Got a better look and the actual adjuster wheel dingus was hung up on the wrong spot on the shoe which is hard to see because its behind the adjuster pawl. Pulled it down with a satisfying *CLICK* and all was well. I just need to put the new brake drum on and adjust the thing before moving to the other side as well as replacing the rubber line in the rear. Tomorrow is "Zorba's day of beauty" - hair, brows, facial, etc - so I'll get back on it Wednesday. Thursday is a short day for me, so I'll squeeze in a visit to the shooting range before I go to dance class - and *maybe* get this brake stuff finished up and bled on Friday. I've always been slow at this kind of thing, and I'm getting slower the older I get!
Buyer beware of china tools, VEVOR crap clamshell demotivating my progress. There is no way for the plug to go in all the way in clam shell tube. Got a return approval from Amazit. I will go back out there and start dremeling bearings after I calm down. Carrier bearings rolled in today. Plan now, screw tranny guy, and getting a press. Going the freeze and bake method. Pinion in freezer now, warned wife about baking bearings and ring gear in toaster oven tomorrow. I am going with shim set up that came out with fresh bearings. My gut feel it will be good. Races pressed in, inner with .004 shim. I don’t want to put the locker in the freezer, Bag of ice in journal maybe. Rear brakes on hold for now. Got to er on the road before Xmas !
You shouldn't need to freeze anything - just heat the bearings up. I've used a hot plate with a small sheet of steel on top (to better distribute the energy) for decades when building motorcycle engines, and I did it with my Dana 44 axles a couple years ago. Just don't heat up sealed bearings.
The hot plate works a lot faster because you're relying on conduction, rather than convection. Hot plates are cheap, and you can keep it in the shop so you don't need your wife's permission. Here's a name-brand hot plate and a no-name hot plate, for example:
https://www.amazon.com/Proctor-Silex-Adjustable-Temperature-34106/dp/B086BYH8LJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/OVENTE-Count...ure-BGC101B/dp/B07HGG378Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Yeah, funds are very low currently. A hot plate has been been on my list for while. I have seen a set up with hot air gun blowing in a pan with bearings in it. I do have infrared temp indicator could try that method as well not sure about ring gear…..ah, might work. Worth a try.
alexroxass
New Member
Took her for a little bit of off-roading in the snow. Found a nice backdrop for a quick picture on the way home
Pic is with brake disc removed, showing the parking brake shoes. The boss where the shoes rest is crooked (maybe drove through the applied parking brake.
erickpl
Member
In the last few weeks:
1. Replaced Starter.
2. Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator. It died on me while driving and had to have it towed home. $50.00 later from RockAuto and it is running great now. Even a bit peppier (if there IS such a thing with a 2.5L engine LOL). May just be a placebo, but it does great.
3. Adjusted castor on the front for better steering feel.
4. Installed new Replace-A-Top after 20 years running the previous top. Upper door skins are a PITA and we haven't been warm and sunny enough to put them out in the sun to stretch and work over the frame more easily. Any tips to finish that off would be nice.
5. Installing new amp for the front/rear speakers. Old Kicker amp from 2004 finally died after water/dirt messed it up. Went with a simple Jensen 4ch amp from WalMart and will be installing it up off the floor a bit just to help avoid water a bit better if it gets in.
6. Washed it. It is now sitting in the garage with new top on, but no upper door skins currently (see #4 above LOL). So it is still clean!
After neglecting it in the driveway for several years, lots of little things to do to make it ready for the road.
1. Replaced Starter.
2. Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator. It died on me while driving and had to have it towed home. $50.00 later from RockAuto and it is running great now. Even a bit peppier (if there IS such a thing with a 2.5L engine LOL). May just be a placebo, but it does great.
3. Adjusted castor on the front for better steering feel.
4. Installed new Replace-A-Top after 20 years running the previous top. Upper door skins are a PITA and we haven't been warm and sunny enough to put them out in the sun to stretch and work over the frame more easily. Any tips to finish that off would be nice.
5. Installing new amp for the front/rear speakers. Old Kicker amp from 2004 finally died after water/dirt messed it up. Went with a simple Jensen 4ch amp from WalMart and will be installing it up off the floor a bit just to help avoid water a bit better if it gets in.
6. Washed it. It is now sitting in the garage with new top on, but no upper door skins currently (see #4 above LOL). So it is still clean!
After neglecting it in the driveway for several years, lots of little things to do to make it ready for the road.
No need to pull the axle shafts. You unbolt the caliper to replace the pads. I unfortunately had to replace the calipers as the pistons were seized.
While in there I also removed the brake rotor/ disc to check and clean the parking brake.
Did the Mr. Blaine toe alignment. Drives like new. One thing to add, my rotors were loose to the hub, and had to add two lug nuts to hold them in place. Found this out as I did the procedure a second time!
Kiwi TJ
Just asked myself if I’m crazy and we all said No
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Did your new replace a top have the Bestop logo above the back window?
Similar threads
