Clown car width is right. However, Falken makes great tires, and are OEM on a lot of Jeep. I'm running them on my F-150 at this point, since the Wildpeak ATs have behaved so well on the wife's toaster Jeep (2 sets: quiet, grippy, wear like iron).
What did you do to your TJ today?
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Clown car width is right. However, Falken makes great tires, and are OEM on a lot of Jeep. I'm running them on my F-150 at this point, since the Wildpeak ATs have behaved so well on the wife's toaster Jeep (2 sets: quiet, grippy, wear like iron).
I'm running the Falken at4w in a 255/85r16 . So far they drive and ride pretty good. Traction in mud , dirt , rocks is good . Haven't been on any difficult trails yet or snow . They handle wet roads fine without hydroplaning . So far I've been happy with their performance and the are relatively quiet .
TheYonderGod
Member
Ok yeah that's what I was looking at thinking the backspacing looked off.. I'm not sure how wide my wheels are, what is a good/standard width for 12.50 wide tires?
Right, I was looking for Falken at3w or at4w, that's why I was looking at that listing. Still might be worth buying them and swapping the tires, since it's listed for $700, that's about $400 off. Maybe sell the wheels to a clown for $100 or so too.
8-9" wide is appropriate for a 12.5 tire. If you use a tape measure you'll find they are more like 10" wide. Floatation size tires are about 2" narrower than they say.
You may be able to get a part number off the rear arb and research if it has 30 spline side gears. Though you could just pop out an axle at that point and confirm
Pulled Jeep into garage for first time to get get more light on subject. Oh Boy, this will be fun
MountaineerTom
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I just put a washer between the frame and skid at each bolt.
Took a break from work for a second to mount some new backup lights. Couldn't figure out where to mount lights on the body or the bumper that would keep them from getting knocked off.
I'll wire them up tonight. Going to use the backup light wire as a trigger for relay.
I'll wire them up tonight. Going to use the backup light wire as a trigger for relay.
That occurred to me last nite as I was going to sleep. That would just let it breathe.
You’re an above average tinkerer- I would personally skip the lock Tight and use anti seize. It’s not a big deal to re check those in a few months if there was concern. I would also clean the frame and skid and just repaint. Extra coats for added protection. Not sure about a gasket there being adequate in holding moisture out or potentially in
Thanx for your kind words - yea, that's where I was going with this if nobody told me that I was an idiot for doing so. Frame and skid repaint is in progress. I'm thinking I'm going to just use some washers to keep the skid a BCH off the frame and let it breathe...
RUT ROW, i was afraid this was the source of the CLANK. Not sure to tear apart now and see what needs replacing, or slap back together and lube. I do not have the funds to fix this now.
Check the pinion for movement. The pinion nut might be loose
Yup, will do, I will go back out there after I rest a bit.
I also added a galvanized washers between the frame and skid at each bolt. I also used anticize on the bolts.
Those marks on the carrier are from the pinion being loose. Either now or in the past. I wouldn't drive it at all if the pinion yoke has in/out or side to side play.(not rotational,side to side)
Pinion bearings,seal and a new crush sleeve are on the agenda if it is loose
Anti-seize
Especially in your rust area. Just adjust torque appropriately (if you're using a measured wrench and not just your elbow estimation).Water will still get in. I had rubber backing on my rocker guards and still ended up with a portion of the tub rusting.
Just do the maintenance you just did any time you're in there and you should be good.
In years past, I went the other way and put in some washers to space down the skid, maybe 1/8"-1/4" so I could get water in there to wash out salt. It made no difference, surface rust still formed on both over time...
I'll be FINALLY installing the new cable shift linkage for the transfer case. Its only been sitting around for a year - not very Savvy of me...
You'll love it!
No movement in or out, but little jiggle side to side. I do have a socket for pinion nut, Yet. It’s a wrap for today. I thought there has to be something wrong with this rig for what I got it for? Well thought came true, all good, I am brining her back to life! Thanks all
View attachment 574182
No movement in or out, but little jiggle side to side. I do have a socket for pinion nut, Yet. It’s a wrap for today. I thought there has to be something wrong with this rig for what I got it for? Well thought came true, all good, I am brining her back to life! Thanks all
All the bolts in the ring? I suspect you would have found them but I had carrier damage from a couple of mine coming loose and rolling around in the diff.
I don't suspect that's your issue - but figured I'd toss it on the table to check and eliminate as root cause.
Tried the 3RD new back glass this morning, and it was also incorrect.
The rubber grommet hole in the glass that the wiper shaft goes through should be 4” down from the top edge of the glass, and on this back glass, it was only 2-1/4” down and once the wiper motor assembly was in place, it wouldn’t clear the edge of the top enough to allow the glass to close.
SO, we’re gonna try another supplier.
One of the glass suppliers said they stopped manufacturing the corrrct glass for the 2003-2006 TJ’s in 2017.
I certainly hope that is not true
The rubber grommet hole in the glass that the wiper shaft goes through should be 4” down from the top edge of the glass, and on this back glass, it was only 2-1/4” down and once the wiper motor assembly was in place, it wouldn’t clear the edge of the top enough to allow the glass to close.
SO, we’re gonna try another supplier.
One of the glass suppliers said they stopped manufacturing the corrrct glass for the 2003-2006 TJ’s in 2017.
I certainly hope that is not true
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