What did you do to your TJ today?

IMG_7403.jpegIMG_7404.jpegIMG_7407.jpegIMG_7409.jpeg IMG_7411.jpeg OK, I took this Tuffy drawer box out when first got this rig to eliminate as many rattles as possible to diagnose suspensions rattles. I did not care for the method of mounting as well, was not done correctly. My buddy came by and helped me remove drawer from sliders , clean up a bit and install at rear seat mounts using two m8x1.25x20 bolts. I overlooked the hole on side drawer box line up with wheel well seat attach points as well(pretty sure they do). WE rushed and put drawer in slider before I thought of it, Good for now. I already relocated the VIAIR 450 compressor from the top wheel well to behind driver seat. Hopefully I will put the top and tonneau cover on tomorrow, they both go with the wind jammer, put out by Mastertop. I was going to abandon the drawer for the life of me could not figure out slide catches, took two brains and four hands, thanks to my buddy.
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I mocked in how it was secured? In when I got it, sheet metal and screws with box resting over the old carpet that I took out. I may later take box out paint nice, with maybe Bedrug in cargo area as well. Great day!✌️
 
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We did take the jeep out to auto zone to get m8 bolts, sub shop and drive by a new 4x4 shop here in Burbank Ca, stopped in and introduced ourselves. There thoughts were that I should be running 37”? tires with 4.88 gearing. Of course I go in the show room and drool over beadlock rims. Something for discussion later not in my budget right now. I have some miles to put on current Coopers. Maybe sooner Jeep was sitting for time idle for some time in the sun. Sun rot on tread fringe sidewalls appear ok. Dana 30 with 37’s? Dana 35 for that matter too.
 
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All 4 Wheelin' said:
Made a couple of holes in my grill to mount JK blinkers View attachment 573986

View attachment 573987

Nerve racking but all went well.
Click to expand...
I've been going back and forth with doing this when I get my new fenders installed after Thanksgiving. It will either be this or small 3/4" LED's in the fender mounting locations.

HWNPUNCH said:
There thoughts were that I should be running 37”? tires with 4.88 gearing.
Click to expand...
I've been looking at a set of almost new 37" BFG KM3's with aluminum beadlocks locally for $2k. I've got 4.88 gears and can't bring myself to do it even though my research says it will be better than when I ran 33's and 3.73 gears. I don't have the spare cash to buy the tires/wheels and then regear to 5.38's. I will probably go to 35's and stay there for a while.

HWNPUNCH said:
Dana 30 with 37’s? Dana 35 for that matter too.
Click to expand...
No, don't do that. 35's are the biggest IF you have the Super 35 kit installed.
 
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Price sounds right on those 37s and beadlocks. Go for it.

Worst case you break an axle, or a ball joint or something. You can fix that. You can plan for tons or downgrade later on to 35s.

Check the date code.

If it was me I'd buy those 37s, snag the beadlocks and sell the tires, then buy 35s.

-Mac
 
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Started on the front driveshaft rebuild:

Support tranny, unbolt and remove the Shovel...
62d.jpg


Driveshaft out!
630.jpg


Front U-joint was greasable! I had no idea, that's what I get for ASS-U-ME-ing! Doesn't look like that zerk was ever used...
632.jpg


Edge of the Shovel rust, bottom of frame was similar...
633.jpg


Chipped, wire brushed, and hit with rust reformer.
636.jpg


Front U-joint out, revealing fabulous machine work...
638.jpg


Last picture in next post, along with some stupid questions...
 
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New front U-joint in, 1 down, 2 to go!

639.jpg


Dumb questions:

1) the bolts holding the Shovel on are in great shape - but there was blue Lok-tite on them. I'd be more inclined to put never-seeze on them. Thoughts?

2)I'm thinking of using either some gasket material, or some thin sheet rubber to make a "gasket" between the Shovel and the bottom of the frame so water can't get in between them and cause further rust. Good idea? Bad idea because? Thoughts?

3)I'm pretty sure I used never-seeze on the driveshaft bolts when I did the rear DS last year. Thoughts?

I'll be FINALLY installing the new cable shift linkage for the transfer case. Its only been sitting around for a year - not very Savvy of me... ;)
 
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I had to dig out my TJ today 😩
Still haven't driven it in the snow yet, I want to get new tires first if I can avoid it.
20241120_093828.jpg20241120_221325.jpg20241121_014601.jpg


Can I get your opinions, I'm looking at these wheels/tires on FB marketplace, seller doesn't know what the backspacing is. From the picture it seems like a lot less than my wheels so I'm worried they would stick out too far. Are you able to tell from the picture? They are a little further that I could drive without being sure I want them.
1732184276799.png


Oh yeah and here's a picture of my current wheels to compare. They do rub a little at full lock, so a little less backspacing might be good, but I don't have any experience to know how much is too much. I might just be overthinking it, I could just go buy them and swap the tires and sell the wheels if I have to.
20241015_180754.jpg
 
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Zorba said:
New front U-joint in, 1 down, 2 to go!

View attachment 574023

Dumb questions:

1) the bolts holding the Shovel on are in great shape - but there was blue Lok-tite on them. I'd be more inclined to put never-seeze on them. Thoughts?

2)I'm thinking of using either some gasket material, or some thin sheet rubber to make a "gasket" between the Shovel and the bottom of the frame so water can't get in between them and cause further rust. Good idea? Bad idea because? Thoughts?

3)I'm pretty sure I used never-seeze on the driveshaft bolts when I did the rear DS last year. Thoughts?

I'll be FINALLY installing the new cable shift linkage for the transfer case. Its only been sitting around for a year - not very Savvy of me... ;)
Click to expand...

Locktite does same job as neverseize. IMO
 
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Zorba said:
Front U-joint out, revealing fabulous machine work...
Click to expand...
Zorba, stop dogging on the machinist - he didn't do that.

1732188437836.png


That's not a machining mark. It's exactly what happens if you use a hydraulic press to press the cap in, but the cap O.D. and the ear's bore are just slightly misaligned. You then have to back off, remove the cap, and start over. That's proof that someone replaced that u-joint previously and used a hydraulic press. I know this because I've been that idiot on the press handle. I suppose you could also do that with a hammer, too, but that would take a lot of beating to do.
 
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Yesterday,
yes im always a day late and a dollar short
wiped down my old /newly attached flares and coated them with Meguiars polish
then washed the jeep
still awaiting for the shop to call about my new tires
Ordered the speedo gear for 30inch tires to replace the 33inch tire gear
completed the order for my "THERE AND BACK AGAIN" Decal for the Hood :)
 
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Zorba said:
New front U-joint in, 1 down, 2 to go!

View attachment 574023

Dumb questions:

1) the bolts holding the Shovel on are in great shape - but there was blue Lok-tite on them. I'd be more inclined to put never-seeze on them. Thoughts?

2)I'm thinking of using either some gasket material, or some thin sheet rubber to make a "gasket" between the Shovel and the bottom of the frame so water can't get in between them and cause further rust. Good idea? Bad idea because? Thoughts?

3)I'm pretty sure I used never-seeze on the driveshaft bolts when I did the rear DS last year. Thoughts?

I'll be FINALLY installing the new cable shift linkage for the transfer case. Its only been sitting around for a year - not very Savvy of me... ;)
Click to expand...

You’re an above average tinkerer- I would personally skip the lock Tight and use anti seize. It’s not a big deal to re check those in a few months if there was concern. I would also clean the frame and skid and just repaint. Extra coats for added protection. Not sure about a gasket there being adequate in holding moisture out or potentially in 🤷
 
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TheYonderGod said:
I had to dig out my TJ today 😩
Still haven't driven it in the snow yet, I want to get new tires first if I can avoid it.
View attachment 574028View attachment 574029View attachment 574030


Can I get your opinions, I'm looking at these wheels/tires on FB marketplace, seller doesn't know what the backspacing is. From the picture it seems like a lot less than my wheels so I'm worried they would stick out too far. Are you able to tell from the picture? They are a little further that I could drive without being sure I want them.
View attachment 574031

Oh yeah and here's a picture of my current wheels to compare. They do rub a little at full lock, so a little less backspacing might be good, but I don't have any experience to know how much is too much. I might just be overthinking it, I could just go buy them and swap the tires and sell the wheels if I have to.
View attachment 574036
Click to expand...

No way,those are clown car width wheels by a company that makes poor quality.they are 10 or 12" wide. Look at all the smooth steel before the wheel center compared to yours
 
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