I just tried again, and it works for me now.
Utah Soft Shackle Recovery Points
- Thread starter sunnysideup_lj
- Start date
I just tried again, and it works for me now.
A note of reference that may affect folks with front swaybars in the crossmember tube.
The rear bolts are 2" long. Installed on the frame with NO bumper, just the frame, the bolt sticks through the inside of the tube by right at 3/4".
That means the installed amount of bolt being used is 1 1/4".
Add a 3/16" thick bumper, it is 1 7/16" of bolt being used.
Add a hoop with 3/16" base plates, it is 1 5/8" of bolt being used.
That also means if you run a 3/16" front bumper and run a SwayLOC, the bolt is going to bottom out on the swaybar. Adjust accordingly by cutting the bolts off and grinding a chamfer on the ends or get in touch with a bolt length that you KNOW will work for your situation and I'll send some out.
Your choices are 1 1/2" and 1 3/4".
The shorter would be for 3/16" bumper with nothing else between the bottom of the recovery point and the frame with a larger diameter swaybar. The longer would likely be for bumper and hoop base with a larger diameter swaybar.
The key is we need to know the length and we need the bolt to extend through the nut.
The rear bolts are 2" long. Installed on the frame with NO bumper, just the frame, the bolt sticks through the inside of the tube by right at 3/4".
That means the installed amount of bolt being used is 1 1/4".
Add a 3/16" thick bumper, it is 1 7/16" of bolt being used.
Add a hoop with 3/16" base plates, it is 1 5/8" of bolt being used.
That also means if you run a 3/16" front bumper and run a SwayLOC, the bolt is going to bottom out on the swaybar. Adjust accordingly by cutting the bolts off and grinding a chamfer on the ends or get in touch with a bolt length that you KNOW will work for your situation and I'll send some out.
Your choices are 1 1/2" and 1 3/4".
The shorter would be for 3/16" bumper with nothing else between the bottom of the recovery point and the frame with a larger diameter swaybar. The longer would likely be for bumper and hoop base with a larger diameter swaybar.
The key is we need to know the length and we need the bolt to extend through the nut.
Agreed.
I received the UV resistant hard anodized version from Blaine’s Wizard Recovery Gear website. The quality is excellent.
These are so well made, and the good news with the anodized version is it will keep its color. My WRG fairlead + thimble retainer was anodized by the same place two years ago
I fold when you’re rolling those dice looking cube-lights.
So good
However, you said you liked my dice the other night. I’m not so good with this mixed signals stuff.
Is it clear now?
out with the old Savvy hooks, in with the new sunnysideup_lj soft shackle friendly recovery points available at https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/products/recovery-points---soft-shackle-friendly
* my apologies for the terrible pictures
* my apologies for the terrible pictures
Last edited:
out with the old Savvy hooks, in with the new sunnysideup_lj soft shackle friendly recovery points available at https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/products/recovery-points---soft-shackle-friendly
View attachment 569800View attachment 569801 View attachment 569802
* my apologies for the terrible pictures
Looks awesome doesn't it? I asked for a set too.
Blaine told me I missed you by a very short time on Sunday
Looks awesome doesn't it? I asked for a set too.
Blaine told me I missed you by a very short time on Sunday
I thought I heard Blaine mention your name to Kat but I wasn't sure. I am blown away with the 3D printed panel set up he's working on. I have to stop by every couple of weeks just to see what he's come up with.
I am always
with the details in his work. Esp the ones that you miss and he has to point them out because things look so OEM but are fully custom. FYI .. more changes have already happened to the item you mention above 
That details on that were very actively discussed this weekend.
I am not printing anything. 3D printing is like setting up gears, I got enough garbage running around in my head that I have neither the inclination or time to deal with learning the rarely used skill sets for either. I pay gear guys and I'll pay a 3D guy if and when we get it figured out. Or, I may just get out my pocket knife and whittle it out.
I second that. He seems like a crafty and resourceful bugger.
When needs be.
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