RE1600 track bar hitting aftermarket Dana 44 diff cover on 97 Wrangler with 3.5" lift

[mojowrangler]

This is a "how worried should I be" post...

I have a Rubicon Express RE1600 adjustable track bar on my 97 Wrangler with a 3.5" lift (RE7003) that supposedly "works on vehicles with 3.5" - 4.5" of lift" (https://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_602_07.htm). However, my Wrangler appears to be making contact between this track bar and my aftermarket front aluminum differential cover (Part number: 40-2033AL). The axle is also a Dana 44 that came off a 2004 Rubicon, which might change the geometry a little too.

This was pointed out to me by @Ir0nH3@d on another thread.
I'd be willing to buy/install a new track bar, but I'm hesitant to do so since the track bar is "supposed" to be OK (not hit the diff cover). I'm guessing that the aftermarket G2 cover is a little thicker and just enough to "stick out" and make contact under certain conditions. I'm not sure how often (or "how bad") this is occurring. I can just see the scuff mark where the track bar has made contact with the diff cover at some point.

So a couple questions for folks familiar with these vehicles...

1. How worried should I be about this, short term or long term?
2. What, if anything. would you recommend doing to "fix" this (replace/adjust track bar, replace diff cover, etc.)?

FWIW, my initial impression is that contact between these two parts is probably not occurring often and likely not impacting hard enough to cause functional issues. But I don't want to regret dismissing this issue as well. I also don't want to buy parts that have the same specs so I'm hoping to hear from folks that have had similar issues (and have resolved them - or safely ignored them I suppose). To help monitor things, I'll probably "mark" the trackbar somehow to help determine if/when the track bar makes contact (leaving ink/paint transfer on the diff cover).

 

[Woodrow]

I'd get a currie(rock jock) front track bar. The Dana 44 is bigger than the Dana 30 but that cover doesn't look too bulky. Cycling your suspension with the springs out would help you evaluate this better. My concern is the contact could be stressing the frame side track bar mount over time if its often/hard enough.

 

[OldBuzzard]

+1 on cycling your suspension.

Or put your passenger rear tire up on blocks, and jack up the driver side of the front axle to check it.

If you have upper and lower adjustable control arms you can move the entire axle back a little.

 

[tworley]

+3 on cycling suspension.

A stock cover would be cheaper than a new trackbar too.

 

[mojowrangler]

+3 on cycling suspension.

A stock cover would be cheaper than a new trackbar too.

I was thinking about changing the diff cover too. I like the convenience of the aftermarket drain plug, but I might look into it some more.

Cycling the suspension looks useful for troubleshooting. It's not something I've done before, but something I'll do if needed. I already know the track bar is hitting the diff cover, but this might help show how bad the situation is.

If you have upper and lower adjustable control arms you can move the entire axle back a little.

@OldBuzzard Interesting option. I have adjustable rear upper control arms and fixed lower control arms right now, so I'd need to replace the lowers in order to try this.

I'd get a currie(rock jock) front track bar.

@Woodrow I looked at a link for one of these and the geometry doesn't look much different than the one I have (and it was pretty pricey compared to other options). I'm will ing to go this route, but hesitant if it's just going to have the same issue. I'm not sure how I would know, except for just buying it and trying. I've read that this is fairly straightforward as a DIY job, but I might need to have the vehicle professionally aligned later (something else I'm considering).

Thanks all for the feedback! You definitely gave me some options to think about - changing cover, replacing/adjusting control arms, replacing track bar, and testing/troubleshooting by cycling suspension. Good stuff!

 

[tworley]

@Woodrow I looked at a link for one of these and the geometry doesn't look much different than the one I have (and it was pretty pricey compared to other options). I'm will ing to go this route, but hesitant if it's just going to have the same issue. I'm not sure how I would know, except for just buying it and trying. I've read that this is fairly straightforward as a DIY job, but I might need to have the vehicle professionally aligned later (something else I'm considering).

The currie track bar frame end is offset and the bar itself is configured in such a way to specifically move the trackbar away from the diff. It also has better joints and is a solid chromoly tube as compared to the rough country track bar.

 

[Woodrow]

The currie track bar frame end is offset and the bar itself is configured in such a way to specifically move the trackbar away from the diff. It also has better joints and is a solid chromoly tube as compared to the rough country track bar.

I was thinking about changing the diff cover too. I like the convenience of the aftermarket drain plug, but I might look into it some more.

Cycling the suspension looks useful for troubleshooting. It's not something I've done before, but something I'll do if needed. I already know the track bar is hitting the diff cover, but this might help show how bad the situation is.



@OldBuzzard Interesting option. I have adjustable rear upper control arms and fixed lower control arms right now, so I'd need to replace the lowers in order to try this.



@Woodrow I looked at a link for one of these and the geometry doesn't look much different than the one I have (and it was pretty pricey compared to other options). I'm will ing to go this route, but hesitant if it's just going to have the same issue. I'm not sure how I would know, except for just buying it and trying. I've read that this is fairly straightforward as a DIY job, but I might need to have the vehicle professionally aligned later (something else I'm considering).

Thanks all for the feedback! You definitely gave me some options to think about - changing cover, replacing/adjusting control arms, replacing track bar, and testing/troubleshooting by cycling suspension. Good stuff!

@tworley summed it up well. A thinner cover and adjusting your control arms may help too. But cycling the suspension, though time consuming, is very worthwhile for any modified rig (even just slightly bigger tires) especially if taken off road.

 

[jjvw]

This is a "how worried should I be" post...

...

Worried enough that it is worth knowing the RE track bar has been known to break at the welded bung for the rod end. That is not something you want to encourage by smacking the diff cover. No track bar means the steering disappears while driving.

 

[David Kishpaugh]

The one and the only track bar that will clear the diff cover with less than 3" bump stop extension with lower control arm lengths longer than stock 15.75" is Rough Country forged 0-3.5". replace the frame end bushing with a JL/JT front track bar uniball from rock jock and use a moog K7252 cleavite bushing in the axle end. both will use 14mm hardware. Weld the relocation bracket on along with the bolts and use a stock pitman arm. the Rc bar can clear with as much as 3/4-1" longer than stock control arm length, which is also needed to keep a 35" tire off the inner fender under articulation.

 

[mojowrangler]

The one and the only track bar that will clear the diff cover with less than 3" bump stop extension with lower control arm lengths longer than stock 15.75" is Rough Country forged 0-3.5". replace the frame end bushing with a JL/JT front track bar uniball from rock jock and use a moog K7252 cleavite bushing in the axle end. both will use 14mm hardware. Weld the relocation bracket on along with the bolts and use a stock pitman arm. the Rc bar can clear with as much as 3/4-1" longer than stock control arm length, which is also needed to keep a 35" tire off the inner fender under articulation.

I'll look into this. Is this the track bar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OPEUP4I?tag=wranglerorg-20

What are people's thoughts on the rough country brand? I read some negative comments in a couple places but it seems like a lot of folks run RC stuff without issues.

 

[JMT]

What are people's thoughts on the rough country brand?

Mostly that it’s junk. Some change the bushings out to make it glorified junk. RockJock is what people like here.

 

[jjvw]

Mostly that it’s junk. Some change the bushings out to make it glorified. RockJock is what people like here.

Only Dave would come up with using a dropped track bar bracket with a Frankensteined Rough Country track bar and gaslight people with measurements into thinking this is a good idea.

 

[Rickyd]

Only Dave would come up with using a dropped track bar bracket with a Frankensteined Rough Country track bar and gaslight people with measurements into thinking this is a good idea.

That one doesn't lower the pivot by much.if i remember right it is about the same as the curry. My problem with it was like he said,you need to weld it on. Mine kept coming loose and giving full blown death wobble. I don't remember if it cleared the cover

 

[Superjay5]

Looks like you have aftermarket control arms, if they are adjustable you could reduce there length to pull the axle back and gain some clearance.

But as others have mentioned you need to pull the springs and cycle the suspension to properly set up a suspension and check clearances.

 

[David Kishpaugh]

Only Dave would come up with using a dropped track bar bracket with a Frankensteined Rough Country track bar and gaslight people with measurements into thinking this is a good idea.

Are you here for proven solutions or to show everyone how big your ball are. And use product that do not fit without compromise.
My facts and your opinion only s

 

[jjvw]

Are you here for proven solutions or to show everyone how big your ball are. And use product that do not fit without compromise.
My facts and your opinion only s

Not my first rodeo. And I know full well your long history of erratic shifts in design and component changes that are all equally revolutionary and do not demonstrate a thoughtful pathway of refinement.

If we are going through the efforts to modify a track bar to make it better fit any peculiarities within the larger application, I will still start with RockJock. I made a couple small changes to it's shape to where I have 6" up, 6" down, clear the diff cover, and still have leftover misalignment at the frame side Johnny Joint in single shear. This is in conjunction with a long list of supporting nuanced changes that result in no compromises to that suspension travel and behavior.

 

[David Kishpaugh]

.

 

[jjvw]

.

That is a bunch of pictures with no context or any useful information.

 

[David Kishpaugh]

Not my first rodeo. And I know full well your long history of erratic shifts in design and component changes that are all equally revolutionary and do not demonstrate a thoughtful pathway of refinement.

If we are going through the efforts to modify a track bar to make it better fit any peculiarities within the larger application, I will still start with RockJock. I made a couple small changes to it's shape to where I have 6" up, 6" down, clear the diff cover, and still have leftover misalignment at the frame side Johnny Joint in single shear. This is in conjunction with a long list of supporting nuanced changes that result in no compromises to that suspension travel and behavior.

No modifications necessary, especially shorter control arms.

Bolt on the rouch country forged, end of story. You need to goto a few more rodeos and you might learn something.

 

[jjvw]

No modifications necessary, especially shorter control arms.

Bolt on the rouch country forged, end of story. You need to goto a few more rodeos and you might learn something.

That isn't the end of story, by your own admission. You are the one who is confused about the "no modifications necessary".