Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Thoughts on a potential 2000 TJ purchase

Cooper Smith

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Messages
867
Location
Amherst, Ohio
I live in NE Ohio. I have searched for YEARS, for a nice TJ. I don't have the time or means to have them shipped/jump states or anything like that. In August of 2023, I bought my current TJ and is the reason why I have been lurking around this forum. Finding a box frame vehicle around here that doesn't mirror swiss cheese is harder than tiptoeing on thumbtacks. I currently have a (in my pfp except on stock wheels now) 2003 TJ 2.4 with a 5 speed. I wanted a TJ, TJ's rust bad out here, and this one was the one in my price range that wasn't ALL the way rotted out. As you guys know, the 2.4 is honestly not the best motor. Sure it gets the job done, but at the end of the day, I feel like I'm driving a PT Cruiser if it was heavier and shaped like a brick (let's face it, I might as well be!).

So in the search of a summer rig, through many OBS Chevy's and Corvettes later, I've been skimming marketplace here and then, and have come across a 2000 4.0 Sport listed for $6400.

Here are the pros in my mind:
  • No rust (the frame looks new, like FACTORY new. Not painted over.) In terms of pricing, this is very important because you almost can't find any TJ's in Ohio before 2005 that haven't had frame repairs or need them. The one's that have survived are soon gonna need them, or are extremely expensive.
  • 4.0? I mean come on. Who doesn't want what's essentially a tractor engine?
  • Full doors
  • New brake lines. Not necessarily something specific about this Jeep, but one less thing to worry about considering bleeding brakes is annoying.
  • The AX-15. I don't want an automatic, and of all the manuals for the 4.0, the AX-15 is what really sells me. I don't wheel my 2.4 as it's the only car I have right now, and I don't want to put it through the hoops out on the trail. NVG being out of business and a lack of rebuild support available and the NSG-370 being what it is, the AX-15 already in it just makes me feel a little bit better about how much ass it'll take off-road. I hate dropping transmissions and having a durable Aisin box who's manufacturer is still in business sounds like a pro, as opposed to later years.
  • It turns 26 next year, and in my county I am required to get an emissions test until the model year is 25 years old. No testing. When the cat goes, I can chop her off and slam a non-fouler in there and call it a day.
Now for the cons...
  • I won't lie. My 2003 has a 2.5" Rough Country lift. I bought it that way. As some of you know, I've had some fun dealing with the previous owners mod choices. That said, it seems this one also has a RC lift as well. Looks to be 3.5" maybe? Hard to say. What should I be looking for? Adjustable control arms? Adjustable track bar? Drag link to track bar angle? Make sure it doesn't have a DPA? I have had death wobble. I have had death wobble to where I almost went straight into a ditch with my girlfriend. I hate buying trucks and cars that have been modified, especially after all of that, but when deals come they love to go.
  • For the 4.0 guys, what should I be looking for? Lifter tick (4.0 is a pushrod engine right)? OPDA noises (even though that was 4-5 years later)? How hard are they to work on (water pump jobs, PS pump jobs)? The 2.4 has plenty of room, I'll give it that. 4.0 engine bay looks a little... cramped.
  • It has had body armor on, then removed. So the holes drilled for that are there. I personally don't care, but value wise, I'd like some input on that.
  • It has tube fenders, but they're not flared. So they kinda look weird.
  • I don't know if it has an SYE, I believe it just has a TC drop. Which I suppose makes frame inspection a little easier.
I will take any input. Even if it's "no it's yellow, pass". You could tell me I'm an idiot for worrying about the RC lift. Anything goes.

Thanks guys.

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Yellow is the best color. You have going for you.
Miles?
Low miles (super clean frame) sometimes (often) worse than high miles.

That is the one thing I do not know yet. I am hoping for around 140-160k. Hopefully fuel pump, water pump, track bar, all that jazz is replaced already. Nothing worse than 16 control arm bushings that are dry rotted from sitting in a yard for 25 years...

My girlfriend is dogging the yellow... but I had to put the Jeep in 4 low to get her to figure out the clutch... so who has the high ground ;)
 
That is the one thing I do not know yet. I am hoping for around 140-160k. Hopefully fuel pump, water pump, track bar, all that jazz is replaced already. Nothing worse than 16 control arm bushings that are dry rotted from sitting in a yard for 25 years...

My girlfriend is dogging the yellow... but I had to put the Jeep in 4 low to get her to figure out the clutch... so who has the high ground ;)

Brake lines and seized calipers.
Skanky fluids in the transfer case and transmission.
Cracked and dry rotted wires in the harness.

Check inside the frame rails. Outside is one thing. Inside, without drain holes, can be a totally different animal to deal with.
 
Brake lines and seized calipers.
Skanky fluids in the transfer case and transmission.
Cracked and dry rotted wires in the harness.

Check inside the frame rails. Outside is one thing. Inside, without drain holes, can be a totally different animal to deal with.

100% agree. I have a boroscope somewhere I'll take. I don't think I'm gonna have to worry about rust on a frame that looks that good, but after 6 months of TJ ownership I wouldn't be surprised. TJ's are a lot like the Tacoma's around that timeframe. Box frames with no drain holes. Makes zero sense.
 
Something just doesn't feel right about this one, but it's hard to tell without more pictures. The holes in the body are a major price reducer, along with those fenders. I can see an ultra shortcut on the front running light and zip tied brake line, so that, with everything else, makes me want to look even closer.
 
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Something just doesn't feel right about this one, but it's hard to tell without more pictures. The holes in the body are a major price reducer, along with those fenders. I can see an ultra shortcut on the front running light and zip tied brake line, so that, with everything else, makes me want to look even closer.

Possible front-end wreck and/or then pulled off other parts he wanted to keep/sell. :unsure:
 
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It's got 212k on the clock anyways. Not interested. It being on stock wheels and having a bunch of mods ripped off, tells me this was just a parts rig that probably has some undisclosed issue.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the odometer reading/mileage.
I say that from recent experience..

My 2006 garage kept LJ at 200k miles is SIGNIFICANTLY more well-kept than my 140k mile Sahara was.
I would argue that my LJ is healthier in every aspect.

I'd take a higher-mileage garage baby TJ before I'd buy a low-mileage that's been beaten on.

The issue with the one you posted here, is that I think it's got a mixture of both.
High mileage & from the looks of it, was set up at least for some moderate wheeling.
(another reason I don't buy previously-modified vehicles)

My immediate thoughts for the yellow TJ you posted is that it was someone's toy, and all aftermarket parts were pulled off and sold separately.
Hence why the fenders stayed (oem fenders are tough to find, and expensive to paint), tires look a bit small (more than likely had larger wheels/tires at one point before sale, and who knows what else was done...)
 
I wouldn't get too hung up on the odometer reading/mileage.
I say that from recent experience..

My 2006 garage kept LJ at 200k miles is SIGNIFICANTLY more well-kept than my 140k mile Sahara was.
I would argue that my LJ is healthier in every aspect.

I'd take a higher-mileage garage baby TJ before I'd buy a low-mileage that's been beaten on.

The issue with the one you posted here, is that I think it's got a mixture of both.
High mileage & from the looks of it, was set up at least for some moderate wheeling.
(another reason I don't buy previously-modified vehicles)

I agree with you up until around the 180k mark. It's just too many miles for my conscience. That's amplified by the fact it's missing so many parts that were on it, especially the body armor and the obvious wheels it used to have.

Once thing I will say though, on a TJ, the first thing I look at is the frame. Next is the interior. They both look really damn good for a 24 year old vehicle. Whether it's in Ontario, or in Texas. If an interior isn't ripped up and disgusting, to me that says a lot about how it was driven.

Maybe I should stop bitchin out and go take a look at it.
 
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I agree with you up until around the 180k mark. It's just too many miles for my conscience. That's amplified by the fact it's missing so many parts that were on it, especially the body armor and the obvious wheels it used to have.

This is a concern of mine as well, and the LJ is the first vehicle i've ever purchased over 150k miles.
The concern DOES still weigh in the back of my mind. But in my opinion, Jeeps are a lot like lego's. They're easy to fix/maintain, and in the event that the engine pops, it's a relatively cheap swap!

as long as...

the first thing I look at is the frame. Next is the interior. They both look really damn good for a 24 year old vehicle. Whether it's in Ontario, or in Texas. If an interior isn't ripped up and disgusting, to me that says a lot about how it was driven.

^^^ X10
This is ultimately what sold me on my LJ, and what started my process of buying it and selling my TJ.
There are some things such as Frame/Undercarriage that mileage simply can't outweigh.

My first 5 second look underneath the LJ at the sellers house, and I remember telling him "I want it".
Hadn't even asked yet to hear it run, much less drive it. The thing was MINT underneath, and the interior was MINT as well.

My situation was a bit different, as I already had freshly rebuilt/re-geared Axles underneath my TJ, and full adjustable arms.
I planned to swap all of that over anyways, so the only concerns I had were Engine/Transmission/Frame/Interior.

Interior was is 10/10 condition, Frame is in immaculate shape, zero body damage, and Transmission was smooth.
(although I swapped an AX15 into my TJ, so I already knew the rough cost/labor involved in the event the transmission had issues)

Like I said, if mileage becomes a mechanical concern (engine), an engine swap is simple/easy enough to handle, as long as purchase price reflects that.

I'd go check it out honestly.
Go with your gut, and don't let excitement/impulse lead the way.
Any fishy shit, leave it where it's at. But it MIGHT be what you're looking for.
 
This is a concern of mine as well, and the LJ is the first vehicle i've ever purchased over 150k miles.
The concern DOES still weigh in the back of my mind. But in my opinion, Jeeps are a lot like lego's. They're easy to fix/maintain, and in the event that the engine pops, it's a relatively cheap swap!

I'll say this... I've had to perform more work on older, low-mileage vehicles that were "well maintained" than I have higher mileage vehicles that were at least decently maintained. If a vehicle isn't driven, things don't get moved, lubricated, etc. While bodies, interiors, frames and the like may be in great shape on the low mile examples, usually the mechanical stuff, hoses, and seals have suffered for it. Usually within a few hundred miles of driving an old vehicle with low miles, those issues will show up. Went through it with my TJ, going through it again with a 92 Camaro my dad bought a few months ago that only had 26k miles.
 
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I'll say this... I've had to perform more work on older, low-mileage vehicles that were "well maintained" than I have higher mileage vehicles that were at least decently maintained. If a vehicle isn't driven, things don't get moved, lubricated, etc. While bodies, interiors, frames and the like may be in great shape on the low mile examples, usually the mechanical stuff, hoses, and seals have suffered for it. Usually within a few hundred miles of driving an old vehicle with low miles, those issues will show up. Went through it with my TJ, going through it again with a 92 Camaro my dad bought a few months ago that only had 26k miles.

Right. But at the same time, bushings wear, synchros wear, piston rings wear, it’s hard to make a decision.
 
Right. But at the same time, bushings wear, synchros wear, piston rings wear, it’s hard to make a decision.

Absolutely. That's where how well the vehicle has been maintained comes in to play. All parts have a life span and need replaced at some point. When buying an older vehicle, I do my homework and factor in some repair costs on top of the purchase price and l decide if I'm comfortable with it. When buying a used vehicle, especially an older one, it's just part of the game.

I'm definitely not saying every high mileage vehicle is better than its low mile counterpart, and not saying you should buy this Jeep. I'm just saying I'd never let mileage dictate a buy/no buy situation without a close inspection and some research. Especially with a TJ since solid examples are getting harder to find.
 
Right. But at the same time, bushings wear, synchros wear, piston rings wear, it’s hard to make a decision.

Bushings are an easy/cheap fix, and I would expect wear to those parts regardless of 100k miles or 300k miles.
Keep that in mind when comparing 'wearable' components.

* for example, my LJ came from a single owner and was dealership maintained.
I've got every service record since 2006, in full detail. However, my Upper Ball Joints are worn.
Lowers were replaced 40k miles ago per the dealership, and the service records I have.
However, service records are a good thing to have, but ultimately they're quite useless sometimes, as some components just DO wear out.
I'll be replacing those again when i handle the Upper Ball Joints.

Bushing/gasket/etc wear wouldn't turn me off.
A few hours in the garage, and you can solve those issues.

Engine/Transmission wear are the kickers, and where things actually become concerning.
 
Bushings are an easy/cheap fix, and I would expect wear to those parts regardless of 100k miles or 300k miles.
Keep that in mind when comparing 'wearable' components.

* for example, my LJ came from a single owner and was dealership maintained.
I've got every service record since 2006, in full detail. However, my Upper Ball Joints are worn.
Lowers were replaced 40k miles ago per the dealership, and the service records I have.
However, service records are a good thing to have, but ultimately they're quite useless sometimes, as some components just DO wear out.
I'll be replacing those again when i handle the Upper Ball Joints.

Bushing/gasket/etc wear wouldn't turn me off.
A few hours in the garage, and you can solve those issues.

Engine/Transmission wear are the kickers, and where things actually become concerning.

A few hours? I wish I was in Colorado. If I look at a control arm bolt the wrong way around here, I’m bringing out the acetylene.
 
A few hours? I wish I was in Colorado. If I look at a control arm bolt the wrong way around here, I’m bringing out the acetylene.

Sorry.
I didn't mean to bring the rust PTSD. :ROFLMAO:

I hadn't considered rust when typing that.

However you did say the frame looked clean.
As long as our ideas of 'clean' are relatively the same thing... :ROFLMAO:
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator