05 TJ getting an audio upgrade and a back up camera
- Thread starter strappah
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CreepinDeth
TJ Addict
Not stupid at all.
I sometimes use heat shrink tubing to stress relieve where the wire connects to the butt connector or I’ll use it for extra abrasion protection or to protect from heat being transferred either from an external heat source or when doing other things like insulating over a diode or inline resistor.
I didn’t run heat shrink tubing over my stereo connections (not necessary). Some will say that heat shrink splices are already overkill but I prefer to preserve a good connection.
@Mikee024 and @CreepinDeth - thanks for the quick replies!
I think I'll skip the extra tubing this time. The Sony harness wires all seem like 22-24 while the Metra Jeep side harness is more in the 14-16 range. I may have to double up the Sony side to fill the radio side of the butt connector.
I think I'll skip the extra tubing this time. The Sony harness wires all seem like 22-24 while the Metra Jeep side harness is more in the 14-16 range. I may have to double up the Sony side to fill the radio side of the butt connector.
OK, wiring harnesses crimped together. The first one I tried failed, I used a universal stripping/crimping tool to see how it would work vs. a crimping tool specifically for butt connectors - it wasn't pretty. Once I switched to the proper crimping tool it was very easy. Just finished the test run in the TJ and everything seems to be working as expected (power, radio works, all 4 speakers check out, etc.). Time to pull it back out and heat shrink the connectors, run the extra cables, then reassemble the dash.
I did not connect the amp remote turn on from the head unit to the factory harness as I don't anticipate using the factory amp and don't know if I'll use the factory harness. So I'll keep that disconnected and taped off for later.
I did not connect the amp remote turn on from the head unit to the factory harness as I don't anticipate using the factory amp and don't know if I'll use the factory harness. So I'll keep that disconnected and taped off for later.
CreepinDeth
TJ Addict
Will do. The only open wire right now is the receiving wire on the Jeep side but I'll still get it taped up.
Tried a heat gun and a lighter, neither of the connectors shrunk as much as I expected, maybe because I used cheapie connectors. May have to get a little more creative/protect the rest of the harness while I work on each one. Maybe a piece of metal to use as a reflector to get all around the connector at the same time. Something for later today.
Tried to get the console out so I could remove the sub housing and see what is left to work with, potentially for the kicker upgrade. But one of the Torx screws didn't want to come out of the rear cup holder area so I'm gonna have to get something underneath the lip while I try to unscrew it. Lower priority, it can wait until much later if necessary.
Still looking for a photo of the inside of a Tuffy Series II Center Console to see if I want to swap over to one of those instead. Not exactly a cheap option so it really has to be worth the extra space.
Tried the new mounting box for the monitor, big improvement. Fits like a glove. Worth moving forward with this one.
One of the differences with this head unit, I assume due to the added built in amp, is that the Crutchfield wiring guide and the owner's manual called for NOT connecting the head unit power and ground to the Jeep harness but instead to run it directly to battery/body. The unit has a 15amp fuse. The unit may not operate at peak performance due to the 10amp fuse/design for the TJ radio circuit. I have 2 unused 20amp circuit on the fuse box (rear wiper motor, subwoofer) that seem like good candidates for add a tap for the short term until I run new wiring for sub/accessories.
Something to keep in mind for anyone else considering this head unit, the wiring will require an additional step past the normal Jeep harness adapter.
Something to keep in mind for anyone else considering this head unit, the wiring will require an additional step past the normal Jeep harness adapter.
CreepinDeth
TJ Addict
Go under the truck and spray them all with PB Blaster if visible and let that soak in a day. I had a few seat bolts stuck like this, and broke a T-50 trying to get one out. Soaked them all, and they came out ALIT easier
Every bolt or screw I remove, I wire wheel them, paint the heads, then use anti-seize on threads before reuse. Old habits die hard, but good habits
Quick n dirty math shows that if your system runs 50w*4 RMS then that's 200w continuous divided by let's say 12.5v then puts you around 16 amps (slightly less amps once the alternator is running). Unless I'm mistaken, it seems that the 20 amp breaker would do the job, assuming peak power doesn't cause any problems.
If you have any issues with power from one circuit using a fuse tap, then maybe tie in power using two fuse taps (one from each circuit) until you run a proper wire from the battery.
Make sure to confirm that the circuits are powered only when the ignition is on.
TBH, I'd probably focus on getting proper power from the battery before I'd combine two circuits. You can run ground to the body as long as your battery-to-body's ground is sufficient. To ensure my body ground was good, I ran a 4awg ground from my battery to the grill support fastener on the firewall inboard of the PCM.
Out of the box settings with just the front speakers swapped so far and wow what a difference. Much more pleasant sounding at higher volumes, could def hear it at 40. Not sure how it would compare to a more standard amplified aftermarket HU but so far it sounds pretty good.
Plays fine in the garage for multiple songs but something is causing the radio to shut down after a few minutes when driving. No fuses popping, just shutting down. I'm hoping it is just that I didn't tighten the battery cable back down enough and it is shaking loose (though shouldn't it be running off the alternator when underway?) and that I didn't nick a wire trying to fit everything back in place. I ran it off the Jeep harness connection just to test it out but I'm pulling it back out until I get the add a tap tomorrow. I'll troubleshoot more after it is on a 20amp circuit but it seems movement or heat oriented at this point. Hoping for a good grounding spot behind the radio or near the fuse box - I want to add quick disconnects so I can still have harness like connections for this separate power and ground run so the Radio/Jeep harness combination can still come out of the vehicle easily.
The battery and the battery cables could use some love as well so I guess I'll be adding that to the list.
One thing I don't like about the radio is the appearance. The single din look inside the larger opening isn't spectacular. I now understand the people who have said they prefer the factory appearance. It is not bad enough that I won't keep it because of the look but def. more of a trade down than previous HU swaps I've done in the past.
Plays fine in the garage for multiple songs but something is causing the radio to shut down after a few minutes when driving. No fuses popping, just shutting down. I'm hoping it is just that I didn't tighten the battery cable back down enough and it is shaking loose (though shouldn't it be running off the alternator when underway?) and that I didn't nick a wire trying to fit everything back in place. I ran it off the Jeep harness connection just to test it out but I'm pulling it back out until I get the add a tap tomorrow. I'll troubleshoot more after it is on a 20amp circuit but it seems movement or heat oriented at this point. Hoping for a good grounding spot behind the radio or near the fuse box - I want to add quick disconnects so I can still have harness like connections for this separate power and ground run so the Radio/Jeep harness combination can still come out of the vehicle easily.
The battery and the battery cables could use some love as well so I guess I'll be adding that to the list.
One thing I don't like about the radio is the appearance. The single din look inside the larger opening isn't spectacular. I now understand the people who have said they prefer the factory appearance. It is not bad enough that I won't keep it because of the look but def. more of a trade down than previous HU swaps I've done in the past.
Not a unit or power related issue, just an incorrect connection on the mic/remote. My own fault for trying to do an install during a conference call.
Volume and clarity at 60 on the highway with no doors or top are not a problem at all. I can hear streamed audio via bluetooth at 60 with another 10 steps on the volume to spare. I can't offer a comparison to other aftermarket HU or amplified systems, but the Sony DSX-M80 def. has enough power to play clearly at highway speeds.
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