Sounds good man.Not sure exactly why but I had the desire not to modify the sub box if at all possible. Save for eight screw holes, I actually manged this.
I just wanted to open up as much internal volume as I could for the sub and add rigidity. I removed the amp and then sealed and mounted the plate back up. Then shaved down the enclosure and used some dynamat for the largest flat surfaces on the inside and then did the majority of the outside.
Part of the design scope was to keep the proudest feature across the face of the speaker below the surface of the sub box to avoid any direct contact with any other items. I was successful in this though I didn't account for small vertical ribs on the back of the bars in the console's speaker grille area. It looked a little close to the top of the foam surround (only) for my liking, so Inserted some 00 rubber faucet washers between the sub box and console at the three screw holes for an extra buffer. Bear in mind I am not running a high powered system here, this is stock in terms of output.
Yes that’s true abiut the output. I’m not sure how much the woofer moves, but if it doesnt make u happy go ahead and get an amp.
I did add some thin adhesive felt pieces at spots where I saw the potential for contact/vibration between the two. The Dynamat is not a bad idea.
here’s a couple of shots…that internal spot on the left was dynamatted and I firmed up some of the sanded areas with a layer of JB weld. I’ve been super happy. Anyhow just sharing in case u ever go further down the rabbit hole.
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