Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Rock Sliders / Rocker Guards Guide

I am on the list for the Savvy's finally getting these works of art. TT and the 4 inch currie,35's few other goodies and a lifetime trailrig she is.
 
  • Love
Reactions: JMT
Anyone have an ETA on the LJ Savvy Sliders? I'm on the "list" to be emailed but I don't have a ton of confidence that they'll actually reach out to me when they're available. I've had a surprisingly hard time giving my money away to them in the past.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob
I have a question on the underside mounting of some rocker guards / sliders.

From reading this thread there appears to be an issue with any options that attach underneath to the body mounts (I'll call this Option 1), and a preference for those that, instead, bolt to the underside of the tub (I'll call this Option 1). But there seems to be two approaches to this second method. Savvy, which looks to be the gold standard look to be shaped so that the sheet metal is simply boled to the underside (Option 2a). Other sliders, such as the Warn ones bolt to the underside of the tub, but are not shaped such that the sheet metal is flat to the tub, instead, three spacers are used. The bolts on the underside go through the sluder, through the spacer and then through holes in the tub to be bolted up (Option 2b).

My question is about Option 2b style sliders. If you come down very hard on the underside of an Option 2a then I presume the load is spread across the whole of the surface of the guard / slider that is in contact with the underside of the tub. But in the same situation for an Option 2b presumably the load is concentrated (in part at least) on the much small points where the spacers are incontact with the underside of the tub. My concern is that this concentrated load may mean the spacers end up damaging the tub, exactly what the guards / rockers are designed to prevent, is this likely? If this is an issue, is an Option 2b still a better choice than an Option 1 guard / slider?

I am no engineer, so my layman's perspective on the concentration of the load onto the three small points may be completely wrong, but I would welcome any comment on my musing from those with more knowledge / experience.
 
I have a question on the underside mounting of some rocker guards / sliders.

From reading this thread there appears to be an issue with any options that attach underneath to the body mounts (I'll call this Option 1), and a preference for those that, instead, bolt to the underside of the tub (I'll call this Option 1). But there seems to be two approaches to this second method. Savvy, which looks to be the gold standard look to be shaped so that the sheet metal is simply boled to the underside (Option 2a). Other sliders, such as the Warn ones bolt to the underside of the tub, but are not shaped such that the sheet metal is flat to the tub, instead, three spacers are used. The bolts on the underside go through the sluder, through the spacer and then through holes in the tub to be bolted up (Option 2b).

My question is about Option 2b style sliders. If you come down very hard on the underside of an Option 2a then I presume the load is spread across the whole of the surface of the guard / slider that is in contact with the underside of the tub. But in the same situation for an Option 2b presumably the load is concentrated (in part at least) on the much small points where the spacers are incontact with the underside of the tub. My concern is that this concentrated load may mean the spacers end up damaging the tub, exactly what the guards / rockers are designed to prevent, is this likely? If this is an issue, is an Option 2b still a better choice than an Option 1 guard / slider?

I am no engineer, so my layman's perspective on the concentration of the load onto the three small points may be completely wrong, but I would welcome any comment on my musing from those with more knowledge / experience.
Any spacer under the larger section of the torque box underneath that is not in very large quantity or enough to get a lot of support is a bad idea IF you plan to use the rails as intended. However, a case can be made that the section in contact with the bottom of the torque box will not be subjected to the same loads as the outer edge or corner. If that is the hill one plans to die on, then the better case be made is the spacers rob ground clearance since they are used to avoid the double bend.
 
I think you need to read some of this thread with an open mind.

Where I live we have a lot of sandstone, so it's mainly individual sections of track that you need some sill protection. Currently, I'm not driving the harder line on these sections. So need something there to give me the confidence to tackle these lines without walking away with a damaged sill.

Whilst Blaine's interpretation of the requirements suits his use, I personally feel the Savvy sliders are too heavy, too exxy and whilst I can see the potential benefit of the removable slider section, have never bent an ARB slider or the tube step on them despite coming down quite hard on them numerous times on some of the more difficult tracks locally in a previously owned TJ. I'm also not a fan of the aesthetics of the Savvy version (personal opinion).

So for me, I'm again fitting ARB versions, disclosing that locally with a 4x4 club discount they are half the cost of importing most anything else from the USA.

In a recent post the ARB's didn't seem to be holding up well for @bty34 (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rock-sliders-rocker-guards-guide.8704/post-1004723). I wondered how they had performed for you over the last three and a half years?

I also watched your install video on YouTube (Liked and Subscribed ;) ) which was really helpful. The ARB sliders seem to be the only ones that use rivet fixings on the bottom, have these held up OK versus bolts?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
 
I think you need to read some of this thread with an open mind.

Where I live we have a lot of sandstone, so it's mainly individual sections of track that you need some sill protection. Currently, I'm not driving the harder line on these sections. So need something there to give me the confidence to tackle these lines without walking away with a damaged sill.

Whilst Blaine's interpretation of the requirements suits his use, I personally feel the Savvy sliders are too heavy, too exxy and whilst I can see the potential benefit of the removable slider section, have never bent an ARB slider or the tube step on them despite coming down quite hard on them numerous times on some of the more difficult tracks locally in a previously owned TJ. I'm also not a fan of the aesthetics of the Savvy version (personal opinion).

So for me, I'm again fitting ARB versions, disclosing that locally with a 4x4 club discount they are half the cost of importing most anything else from the USA.
Missed this but for reference, given what I know of ARB and having designed the Savvy versions, I'd really question that the Savvy are heavier. We need some weights to get that figured out.
 
Given the weight and the recent post on beating them up I am wondering what that tubing actually is. I can't find a specification for it.
 
Given the weight and the recent post on beating them up I am wondering what that tubing actually is. I can't find a specification for it.
Not sure since I didn't see the post but like most, I suspect they are 1.5" x .120 wall in ERW since it makes no sense for them to use DOM and spend that much extra.
 
Given the weight and the recent post on beating them up I am wondering what that tubing actually is. I can't find a specification for it.
Also, seen a comment online suggesting the ARB's are 1/8" rather than /16". Has anoyone ever checked the thickness of the sheet metal parts on them?
 
Not sure since I didn't see the post but like most, I suspect they are 1.5" x .120 wall in ERW since it makes no sense for them to use DOM and spend that much extra.
@JMT said it was 1.25" Schedule 40 in the opening post. I have looked online and that suggests a wall thickness of 0.14". So smaller diameter, but thicker wall. No idea what that says about how the tube was manufactured, or where @JMT got the info.
 
Somewhere I gathered that the Savvy are around 80lb for the pair. The ARB are 63.5lb for the pair. The weight difference of 16.5lbs is the near equivalent of a gallon of water on each side. Nothing to lose sleep over.

I rummaged mostly through manufactures websites. Other info came through specs on merchant sites. Lastly personal testimony on forums.
 
This is a good point Jerry. What are the rough dimensions of that plate Savvy provide?
My TJ is under a locked cover or I'd measure it. Basically it's as big as will fit to completely fill the open area inside the rocker area. It's probably 1/4 or 5/16" thick. @mrblaine would know, he designed it.

CIMG3545.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: UKTJ
Somewhere I gathered that the Savvy are around 80lb for the pair. The ARB are 63.5lb for the pair. The weight difference of 16.5lbs is the near equivalent of a gallon of water on each side. Nothing to lose sleep over.

I rummaged mostly through manufactures websites. Other info came through specs on merchant sites. Lastly personal testimony on forums.
Savvy backer less the plate inside-
Both together are 33.6 lbs x 2 for the pair = 67.2 + a couple of pounds for the internal backers. Not much difference.
DSC00115.JPG

DSC00114.JPG


Savvy slider-
 
Not sure since I didn't see the post but like most, I suspect they are 1.5" x .120 wall in ERW since it makes no sense for them to use DOM and spend that much extra.

Somewhat off topic .. but I came across the below video (~10min) a few years ago clearly showing the difference between the same size ERW and DOM in a good controlled way. Anyone using DOM is most certainly going to advertise it for sure.

Video is not for you .. but for others like me that may not know the difference but wish to learn.

 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts