Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

What's your favorite DIY mod?

If I get a free minute, I'll take a pic of the back side of the early defrost dash trim to show you why the later ones break the grill out so easily. The early ones are heavily reinforced around the hole with a diverter for the air.

I've fixed several with wire mesh and JB Weld epoxy. Works well.
Yea, the plastic used in mine was cheap as shit.

McMaster Carr sells a very wide variety of stainless steel mesh in 1 foot squares.
Looks like they have some nice options. I had explored a few places like Home Depot, but didn't find anything I really liked until I came across the black plastic mesh I'm using now.

https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-cloth
 
I suppose it depends on your definition of "favorite". I think the storage box with the pull-out drawer is the most useful mod I have built, but I had more fun designing and fabricating the retro aviation-style switch/power panel. It's a toss-up.

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I suppose it depends on your definition of "favorite". I think the storage box with the pull-out drawer is the most useful mod I have built, but I had more fun designing and fabricating the retro aviation-style switch/power panel. It's a toss-up.

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My switch panel for my lights, simple, but does what I need it too
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If you ever decide to sell them... I’d totally buy one from you! Yours looks like the most thought out/well built designs of this that Ive seen
Thanks. I've since improved it by adding a bottle opener off to the right side. It's even more functional now! I'll try to post a new pic.
 
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Thanks. I've since improved it by adding a bottle opener off to the right side. It's even more functional now! I'll try to post a new pic.
Here's an updated pic. I've added a bottle opener to the lower right corner (VERY important) and a sleeve over the chain. It's a piece of fabric wiring loom. The chain rattled every time I turned, accelerated, braked, etc. and it was driving me nuts.

Not sure if I mentioned it but the turnbuckle at the top of the chain allows me to level the table, in one direction at least ... not much I can do about leveling it from side to side.

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Here's an updated pic. I've added a bottle opener to the lower right corner (VERY important) and a sleeve over the chain. It's a piece of fabric wiring loom. The chain rattled very time I turned, accelerated, braked, etc. and it was driving me nuts.

Not sure if I mentioned it but the turnbuckle at the top of the chain allows me to level the table, in one direction at least ... not much I can do about leveling it from side to side.

I figured you would do something about the chain, that was the only thing I thought would be annoying lol. I thought I was smart for my plan (haven’t done it yet) of adding a bottle opener with a hidden (inside the tailgate) magnet under it to catch the caps...
 
Another one I forgot to mention. I have a frameless top as well as a sunshade. Getting the front strap between the sport bar and the speaker has always been a PAIN! so last Summer, I pulled the sound bar and drilled new holed about 3/4 inch from the factory holes, leaving a space between the two. Makes getting that strap in and out easy as can be.
BONUS. Today I got a couple pieces of 1 1/2 inch by 6 feet metal stock. Trying to figure out how to transport them, it occured that I could slide them vertically behind the seat and up through that space!:D
 
I DEMAND a how-to write up on this!!! It’s mandatory lol. (Please!!!)
Ok I wish a took pictures when I was doing this but it is not to difficult to do its more like everything jeep related space is a premium.

I started out with a ten plate heat exchanger that I brought from Duda Diesel

https://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=HX1210

The rest is misc. plumbing fittings and hoses. I used 3/8 braided hose that I got from a Marine Store I sure you could get it from a RV store or online. I want it to be able to withstand the hot water temp and I thought that normal hose might not hold up to temps.

For those that don't know a heat exchanger works it kind of like this. If you fill a pan with cold water and put it on the stove and light the burner the flames don't heat the actual water. The flames heat the metal pan the metal pan transfers that heat to the water and heats the water. The with this type of plate heater exchangers works similar but instead of using flames it use hot water from the engine.

If you look at the picture you will see it as 4 taps,

1 is inlet for the 180 + deg hot water supply
1 is the outlet for the 180+ deg hot water.

1 is inlet for the cold water you are trying to heat (lake water)
1 is the outlet the hot water you have now created (your new shower water)

The water from the two systems do not mix, so the engine water is new depleted or crossed with your shower water.

So the system works like this.

I removed the battery and mounted the exchanger under the battery, there is a flat section of metal.

You cut the rubber hose coming from the engine that supplies hot water to the heater core in the cab and reroute it to one of the inlets of the exchanger.
You take the matching outlet and run a hose back to the heater, so you are just taking the hot water that supplies your heater and having it run through the exchanger first and than to the heater.

Than you supply the other inlet on the exchanger with fresh COLD lake, river water and then you run a hose from the matching outlet and that is now heated water and it becomes your new HOT shower water.

You will also need a pump I'm using a Flowjet 2.9 gpm RV pump to pull the lake water and pump it through the exchanger and out to your shower head.

I mounted my inlets and outlets under the hood, I bought a set of washing machine hose bibs because they were colored red (hot shower water ) and blue (cold lake water supply) so I would never get them crossed.

I carry a 20' supply hose that goes to the lake to and use a cheap garden flood outlet to act an inlet screen. I have not yet mounted my pump so I currently just use alligator clips to the battery



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This is my attempt to use the cooler as a cold water supply, and then showing the pump. You can see the hose running along side the air filter box and then down next to the battery to the exchanger. At my first attempt the water was way to hot to use so I had to connect it to a tempering valve to be able to regulate the water temp. I used 2 hand held shower spray hoses and connected them together with a short 1/2" brass nipple to make it longer. My drawing is not the best but it give you the idea of plumbing.

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This is a picture when my son and nephew took the jeep down to the river in Rubicon Springs, use a tarp and some rocks rock make a spa. They disconnected the shower spray and the tempering valve to get it to heat faster. I wish I had pictures when it finally filled with water.
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This is a picture when my son and nephew took the jeep down to the river in Rubicon Springs, use a tarp and some rocks rock make a spa. They disconnected the shower spray and the tempering valve to get it to heat faster. I wish I had pictures when it finally filled with water.

The only question I have is how do you prime the pump? Does it pull enough suction to start the flow of water by itself?
 
Ive really enjoyed the GNTX-177 mirror. I picked mine up for $7-10 bucks at the junkyard. Simply powered it from the fuse box behind the glovebox and ran the temp sensor up to the grill. Its not much, but I enjoy it. Ive found out the compass loses its direction easily when offroading, lots of slow maneuvering. Ive had to calibrate it twice after long trail runs. The temp is usually within 4° from either my weather app, or some external temp reading on a building or billboard.
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Next would be the OBA I just finished up last night. 70 seconds to fill up my 35x12.5R15 from 8psi to 25psi. I really need to clean up the wiring with some heatshrink and loom.
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator