I don't have a clue. I rely on you and Tony Huff for current information on what shocks are available for my vehicles. However, I did edit my post to add some additional "if" words.
Tunable Shock Options for Factory Mounts?
- Thread starter Arthurius
- Start date
I don't have a clue. I rely on you and Tony Huff for current information on what shocks are available for my vehicles. However, I did edit my post to add some additional "if" words.
The problem I've run into when researching this is the upper mount in front. I may just be looking in the wrong place but I haven't come across a fox RR with a stud on top, and anything you do to put an eye on that mount is gonna take up space and reduce available up travel by at least half an inch.
I put this little spreadsheet together so I could easily compare shocks side by side. All I have to do is find the compressed and extended lengths and add a row and it'll immediately tell me everything I need to know. Or if I'm considering a ride height change, I can just plug in the new number and see where I land.
The Rig measurements are just the distance between mounts that is at all usable, not counting any shocks or bump stop extension. Things like hard contact between components (including factory bump stops), springs coming unseated, driveshafts binding, etc. And then the stuff out to the right looks at the greater of compressed lengths (shock vs rig) and the smallest of extended lengths to come up with an actual net travel, up, down and bias.
I threw some Foxes in there a while back just playing around with this idea of a tunable shock in OE mounts, not totally confident that I have them identified correctly. I also don't know if I can compare the lengths apples to apples...for example my rear upper mount is inverted with the bar pin above the crossmember, not sure I can get away with that with a Fox so then I lose about an inch which might move me from the -114 to the -113. Same with the front...I don't know how many inches it'll cost me to put a shock eye under a mount designed for a stud or whether I could do something clever like putting the lower eye below the lower mount, but knowing that would make the difference between using the -109 or the -108.
You can generally assume that an adapter eats up valuable space. We already don't have enough, we don't need to fuck that up.
If I understand correctly, no I haven't. Should have caught it when I lived 30 miles from Mike but the timing was off.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
When sticking with the OEM mounts, everything is a tradeoff. Is the ability to use a quality shock worth a loss of 1/2" in travel? I figured quality is better than quantity. My thought process was that I would rather have 8.5" of well tuned quality travel than 9" of crappy off the shelf travel, as an example. Perhaps that's not a reasonable way to think of it.
Another great explanation of why I started the thread lol
Do I really need to outboard if all I want is a quality shock tune? Unfortunately the answer is 'kind of' lol
My use case also dictates more shock travel.
For example, slowing down is gross.
So yet again, Chad was not correct. That said, slowing down is very cheap.
DO NOT USE THE ALUMINUM BODY REMOTE RESERVOIR SHOCKS. ONLY USE THE STEEL BODY VERSIONS.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
I honestly don't know. I still need to get out to the garage to do the work, cycle the suspension, take careful measurements, and figure it out.
Of course the guy selling brakes is telling us to slow down. You capitalist! lol
This is another bit of interest to me. Small adjustments guys have made to squeeze every inch out of the stock mounts. I started researching travel lengths and bias and seeing configurations from guys here on the forum. Heres a link to a thread i was reading up on, https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-much-up-travel-do-you-have.44250/
I didn't tell you to slow down, I just said that going fast costs a lot of money.
So is this why the active bump stops have become more and more prevalent in builds? (mainly on the JK and up generations) So you can accept the softer tune in a stock length, but allow the slow down before you hit bottom?
This is where I started many years ago trying to get as much out of the factory mounts as I could. It is an educationally valuable exercise to the extent that it made building the outboard mounts that much easier to understand.
The concept has always been prevalent. Some of us have just become better in understanding and explaining how to setup the bump stops.
Lol... so the Poly shock towers are the recommended flavor?
I will have to do more digging into my current setup, but this thread has helped tell me where i will need to go for more fun.The current config is what was on it when I bought it, I want to go through and swap springs, shocks, and control arms since I'm currently on 2" of lift and stock arms all around. I have no real investment into the current setup so I still have time to choose my lane, so to speak. I think for what i like doing, I'm gonna need a different shock tower. Not a real way of getting around that.
Lol... so the Poly shock towers are the recommended flavor?
The current config is what was on it when I bought it, I want to go through and swap springs, shocks, and control arms since I'm currently on 2" of lift and stock arms all around. I have no real investment into the current setup so I still have time to choose my lane, so to speak. I think for what i like doing, I'm gonna need a different shock tower. Not a real way of getting around that.
At the end of the day, if you want to get something done you are going to abandon the factory mounts. Poly mounts have a lot going for them that will make building shock mounts easier and end result nicer.
Yes and no. Lots of folks run them even on longer travel shocks because their builder or shock guy tells them to. What they are supposed to do is add a short but high level amount of damping to the uppermost limit of travel to help the valving in the shock slow the shaft speed down in a very short distance. Lots of tuning involved to dial that in.
What they actually wind up doing is being very annoying with the clicks and pops from folks trying to do their tuning with the air bumps instead of both.
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