Transmission cooler line replacement process

[tyler711]

I need to replace the trans cooler lines on my 06 / 42RLE. As expected, when I replaced the rad I must have wiggled the rusty cooler hard lines enough to cause them to start leaking. I have new OEM style lines from Dorman on hand already.

I have limited time for this repair, so I was hoping someone can confirm the process before I start so I can try to prep as much as possible.

I'm expecting:

* Remove trans skid plate
* Unbolt the exhaust flanges up around the pre-cats near the exhaust manifold
* Unplug the two O2 sensors up there
* Actually disconnect and feed out the old lines, and snake back in the new ones (I expect this to be a frustrating step)
* Top up fluid, and reassemble in reverse order

Am I missing anything at the high level here?

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[GregBelleville]

I can't comment on the process of replacing the lines, but since you didn't say specifically on your list and because I found this out the hard way... Before you drop the skid plate, you need to support the weight of the transmission on jack stands or you're going to be testing your bench press in very short order.

 

[tyler711]

I can't comment on the process of replacing the lines, but since you didn't say specifically on your list and because I found this out the hard way... Before you drop the skid plate, you need to support the weight of the transmission on jack stands or you're going to be testing your bench press in very short order.

Thanks. I should have been clear I meant the small cross member skid under the AT, not the belly pan that supports the trans and transfer case.

 

[Chris]

Off the top of my head I think you've covered it all!

 

[topfuel83]

I did this a year and a half ago on my 06. I would have on hand the quick connect fittings that go into the transmission. Mine were so rusty I couldn't use the tool to pop them out. I ended cutting the lines and removing the quick connect fittings. Given the rust on the old lines, I didn't want to trust the old fitting seals anyways. Dorman makes them, I believe part number 800-723.

Other than that, like you said you will fight a bit to get the new lines in place, but it's not too terrible.

If you haven't had your exhaust apart be prepared to fight the 4 flange bolts. And I took advice from the forum and cut the exhaust pipe in front of the slide plate so I didn't have to drop the t-case skid and deal with the 3rd cat bolts. I used an Evil Energy 2.5" exhaust clamp to reconnect the pipes. Worked out very well!

 

[JeepDrivesBest]

Yeah those quick connect fittings at the trans can be a real pain if they're corroded - definitely worth having new ones on hand like you said.

 

[tyler711]

Thanks, all. I'll start getting some penetrant on the exhaust flange bolts ahead of time. I'll also consider getting the trans-side fittings on hand to save a parts store run, but man almost 20 bucks each is rough. I suppose I can have on hand and return if not needed.

I see just a bit of ATF spray on the engine oil pan from a rusty section of the lines, and that's enough for me to be afraid to take the Jeep out for fear of blowing out one of these lines. Looking forward to getting it back on the road.

Hopefully this is the last step in my comedy of errors that led me here (coolant flush -> new t-stat and new rad cap -> blown rad -> weeping trans cooler lines, with a trans fluid change along the way).