Thoughts on Torx and hex driver sockets

chili_pepper

chicanerous and deplorable
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Okay, I'll preface this one by saying this is being asked specifically for purchase recommendations, though you're free to discuss and debate your choices here as well.

The hex and Torx sockets are a bit of a mismatched shitshow in my toolbox and I'd like to address it. There have been casualties over the decades....I probably have at least 4 different brands, some one piece bit sets, some two piece bit sets, all sets having broken socket bits (especially the torx drivers and smaller hex).

What are you boys and girls using and what have you had luck with? Would be really nice to buy something that will hold up under use. Appreciate your input in advance.
 
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This is a tool area where I'm willing to spend a bunch of money.

For torx and allen drivers, especially the smaller ones, the material used is key to how long they last. And good material is expensive. And milling tough material is also expensive. The toughest stuff I have found is Snap-On and Mac. Not surprisingly, they are expensive - crazy expensive. But for me, they last. I was breaking cheaper versions left and right, but since splurging on the expensive stuff - I've not broken a single one. They are also warranted for life, but if you are not buying off the truck (which I do not), exchanging would be a pain. Buying them is also a bit of a pain, but the truck tool places all have on-line stores (which can also be a pain).

I'm sure there are less expensive options which are quite good as well, and I'm guessing you will get some good advice there. For me, I do not regret going this route despite the ridiculous expense (and I'm not kidding - if you price these things you'll see what I mean).

Good luck, Chil.
 

Thinking more like this kind of configuration (though these are two piece)...

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I have some Matco and Snap On Torx and allen sockets that are close to 40 years old, you can use them in a semi stripped fastener and most of the time they will remove it. Buy once, cry once as the ole saying goes.
 
I picked up a set of Neiko Allen Bit Sockets in SAE and in Metric. They've done a good job so far, but I haven't beat on them much.

My Torx set(s) sounds like your Torx set — a sloppy mess. I have one of the long T-55s for the rear track bar, but I sure would like a shorty for that one spot. Something to keep in mind when looking for a set.
 
I bought a set of Craftsman torx (socket set) and one broke the first time I used it. I was able to exchange it Lowe’s without a problem.

I also bought a handled set from HF oddly enough none of them have broken, yet. They have a handle with a long side and then another torx out the side of the the handle. Overall been happy with them. Worse case they break and I take it back.
 
I like the H-F "Pittsburgh Pro" sockets, considering they're hardened impact style. I put the Allen set to good use recently, during R&R of the RE L-A belly skid on my TJ for transmission and T-case flush plus muffler replacement. Having read old forum posts about those countersunk flush mount Allen bolts seizing or breaking, I hit all with PB Blaster a few days in advance, then tapped the appropriate socket home and cranked them all loose (no pneumatic assist) without drama. If softer steel tool or bolts, might not have done the job...

PITTSBURGH PRO 1/2 in. Drive SAE Impact Hex Socket Set, 8 Piece

PITTSBURGH PRO 1/2 in. Drive Impact Star Bit Socket Set, 8 Piece
 
I have the Pittsburgh Pro Torx bit set also.

We were installing semi trailer flooring and the floor screws are either T40 or T45 (its been a minute) half way through the job the first bit broke, no worries the guy i was doing the job with grab his Mac set and the last screw broke his.

Both had lifetime warranty and we both got new ones, but he was impressed so much he bought a spare set from HF too.

Of course I just live 15 minutes from HF.
 
Buy once, cry once as the ole saying goes.

I hear ya and there's truth in those words, for sure. But I have to say that a rather inexpensive set of Sunex 1 piece Torx bits I purchased some 35 years ago are still doing better than the others purchased since. I'm not knocking Sunex, but I don't think they're in the same wheelhouse as Snap-on or Mac.

My Torx set(s) sounds like your Torx set — a sloppy mess.

The Torx sockets that haven't sheared yet exhibit varying degrees of a lovely helical fluting effect now...which would be great if they were fancy gun barrels, not so much as functional tools. :sneaky:

The only unscathed set is a very low profile all 1/4" drive set, and it's likely they'll stay that way given the (minimal) forces they see during use.

We were installing semi trailer flooring and the floor screws are either T40 or T45 (its been a minute) half way through the job the first bit broke, no worries the guy i was doing the job with grab his Mac set and the last screw broke his.

I used to work in a truck and trailer shop in a former life, have done more than few trailer floors. I don't recall which size, but I know the company I worked for kept a gross of them on hand. We tended to lose more trying to pull the old floor up, but breaking a half dozen doing a floor job wasn't considered remarkable. I don't suppose any of them are invincible, no matter how much you spend.
 
I hear ya and there's truth in those words, for sure. But I have to say that a rather inexpensive set of Sunex 1 piece Torx bits I purchased some 35 years ago are still doing better than the others purchased since. I'm not knocking Sunex, but I don't think they're in the same wheelhouse as Snap-on or Mac.



The Torx sockets that haven't sheared yet exhibit varying degrees of a lovely helical fluting effect now...which would be great if they were fancy gun barrels, not so much as functional tools. :sneaky:

The only unscathed set is a very low profile all 1/4" drive set, and it's likely they'll stay that way given the (minimal) forces they see during use.



I used to work in a truck and trailer shop in a former life, have done more than few trailer floors. I don't recall which size, but I know the company I worked for kept a gross of them on hand. We tended to lose more trying to pull the old floor up, but breaking a half dozen doing a floor job wasn't considered remarkable. I don't suppose any of them are invincible, no matter how much you spend.

Shit was made better 35 years ago though wasn't it
 
I hear ya and there's truth in those words, for sure. But I have to say that a rather inexpensive set of Sunex 1 piece Torx bits I purchased some 35 years ago are still doing better than the others purchased since. I'm not knocking Sunex, but I don't think they're in the same wheelhouse as Snap-on or Mac.



The Torx sockets that haven't sheared yet exhibit varying degrees of a lovely helical fluting effect now...which would be great if they were fancy gun barrels, not so much as functional tools. :sneaky:

The only unscathed set is a very low profile all 1/4" drive set, and it's likely they'll stay that way given the (minimal) forces they see during use.



I used to work in a truck and trailer shop in a former life, have done more than few trailer floors. I don't recall which size, but I know the company I worked for kept a gross of them on hand. We tended to lose more trying to pull the old floor up, but breaking a half dozen doing a floor job wasn't considered remarkable. I don't suppose any of them are invincible, no matter how much you spend.

I bought a set of Lisle Torx bits back in 2008 when I bought the first TJ , they have work fine over the years.

LS27200__03783.1617325838-2706235717.JPG
 
I like the H-F "Pittsburgh Pro" sockets, considering they're hardened impact style. …

As I understand it, that’s a common misconception about bits and sockets that are rated as impact. They are not harder, but rather use softer, less brittle alloys to avoid shattering under the impact load. To offset this, sockets are generally made a bit thicker to retain some of the lost strength. But in a torx or allen bit, they cannot be made any larger to offset for the reduced strength.

For this reason, I think if you are using hand drivers you are much better off not using impact rated bits.

But as I said that’s just my understanding. Hopefully Scott ( @sab ) will see this and either confirm, or call me an idiot…😳
 
As I understand it, that’s a common misconception about bits and sockets that are rated as impact. They are not harder, but rather use softer, less brittle alloys to avoid shattering under the impact load. To offset this, sockets are generally made a bit thicker to retain some of the lost strength. But in a torx or allen bit, they cannot be made any larger to offset for the reduced strength.

For this reason, I think if you are using hand drivers you are much better off not using impact rated bits.

But as I said that’s just my understanding. Hopefully Scott ( @sab ) will see this and either confirm, or call me an idiot…😳
You nailed it, Jeff. 👍🏻 One of problems with steels is that strength and brittleness go hand-in-hand. High strength means very brittle.