The Red Dragon Build

[D's Jeep Wrld]

Brother! you sir have done some great work on that jeep man!
What stood out apart from everything is what you did with the brake lines! I haven't ripped one out yet but this looks like a great way to protect the line!

Can't wait to have a nice shop....having a 2 door garage space with alot of my parents stuff plus my tools makes for a cramped work space lol. heck basically all my work is done in the driveway lol

 

[S/C-HD2002]

Did you buy the fuel filler bezel or make it?

It was purchased from Nemesis Industries.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

Brother! you sir have done some great work on that jeep man!
What stood out apart from everything is what you did with the brake lines! I haven't ripped one out yet but this looks like a great way to protect the line!

Can't wait to have a nice shop....having a 2 door garage space with alot of my parents stuff plus my tools makes for a cramped work space lol. heck basically all my work is done in the driveway lol

Thank you!

I credit many ideas to great minds and other builds on this forum. The collective wealth of knowledge and willingness for people to share their ideas is awesome.

I have spent many years working on projects in driveways as well. I am fortunate to finally have a shop of my own. The unfortunate fact of a shop is it becomes a collection point for more shit. I have found myself over the years dragging more junk home because of the idea there is room for it.

I had to laugh at how clean my shop was when I started the YJ build. It is certainly on my list of things to do.

 

[Apparition]

It was purchased from Nemesis Industries.

Nice, hadn't seen that. Thanks.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

Nice, hadn't seen that. Thanks.

It is a pretty nice piece.

Although I had to laugh, with the amount of cutting and welding I did to it, I probably could've just made one myself.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

Front axle and suspension...

Because I was using a JK based axle, I started figuring out where my axle brackets would locate. Similar to the rear axle, the front truss would need to be modified to fit around the much larger center section and tubes of the Dynatrac axle.

Since I was moving the front axle forward and I was using JK components, I had to consider the steering and front trackbar location/clearance as well. My overall goal for the front end was to move it two inches forward, use as wide of a trackbar as possible, retain my current ride height and the previously installed RockJock CE-9132FP coils. I would also need to figure out upper shock mounts as I was installing 11" 2.0 Fox Factory Race shocks in place of the RS55255 Rancho shocks.

Part of making this axle fit was compiling as many dimensional differences between a JK 44 and a TJ 44 and their respective bracket locations. I found a decent resource with measurements on the Clayton Offroad website. Looking through their TJ and JK axle bracket install instructions, I was able to find detailed diagrams that included bracket locations for both width and proper rotation on the tube.

One benefit the Dynatrac "Unlimited" housing would afford me was an increase in caster. I measured the factory coil perch rotation in relation to the pinion angle of the housing. I figured this would give me a good reference to maintain the caster that was built into the axle.

After cutting the factory upper control arm mounts off, I began fitting the Savvy truss and brace on the Dynatrac axle. Wishful thinking gave way to the reality that a bunch of fitting would be required.

I began removing material from the truss. I opened up the radius on both legs to sit down on the larger tubes. The passenger side leg of the truss was also cut off to allow the truss to sit over the additional width of the Dynatrac housing. Once the truss started moving lower, other interference became apparent. The scalloped portion of the truss (for the TJ track bar) was hitting the housing and the rear edge of the truss was going to interfere with the oil passage for the pinion.

Scallop cut removed...



Oil passage interference...



To avoid up travel interference, I tried to keep the truss in a similar location to where it would reside on a factory TJ Dana 44. I also knew I would need to consider the proper relationship for the upper and lower control arms. With these ideas in mind, I decided it would be easier to modify the truss from the top down. I cut both legs off where they dropped to the axle tubes and ground clearance for the oil passage. The truss finally set down where I wanted it located.

I bent a piece in the press brake to replace where I cut the trackbar scallop out of the truss. The circle represents where I would need to cut the truss to provide access for my ARB bulkhead fitting.

I had previously watched several YouTube builds where the lower JK axle brackets were retained and used with TJ frame brackets. A quick comparison revealed the lower brackets are located similarly in overall width, but the JK brackets are angled outboard and the TJ brackets are angled inboard. Additionally the JK brackets were rotated differently on the tube. Ultimately trying to use these brackets seemed like a halfassed approach to this install and a good way to prematurely bind Johnny Joints during suspension travel and screw up geometry.

My attention was shifted to the mounting and location for the coil spring perches on the axle. Using the factory Dynatrac JK coil perches created most of the desired stretch I wanted, but caused additional lift (due to bracket height) and outward coil bow (the JK lower coil mounts are located wider than a TJ). I had watched videos where JK axle swaps were done by widening the TJ coil buckets on the frame, this again seemed like a poor way of executing this swap. Ultimately the rest of the JK brackets were eventually chopped off the Dynatrac axle.

As a final part of the truss fitment, the tube brace was cut to drop over the larger axle tube.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

Since the Dynatrac perches were cut off the axle, I purchased a set of Barnes JK front lower perches. I figured I would be able to modify these perches easier than trying to reuse the Dynatrac ones. I set to cutting the Barnes perches to drop their overall height (similar in height to a stock TJ perch). I also moved the centerline of the axle tube interface to provide me the full two inch stretch I wanted to run.



The JK perch has no provision for a lower bump stop. I modified mine with a 1/2"-13 weld nut. My initial intention was to run the RockJock TJ bump set. This modification would allow me to bolt the lower bump on my JK perch.

I also purchased a set of Barnes TJ lower control arm brackets. Since I was using adjustable control arms, I set to modify the adjustment slot out of the bracket. Looking back, I probably should've just purchased a set that did not need modification.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

When I purchased the Dynatrac axle it was originally built with 5.38 gears and an Eaton E-locker. I decided I wanted to stay consistent with the rear axle and run a matching front ARB. I stripped the existing locker and gears out of the housing and worked on setting up the new ARB and gears.



Just like the rear truss, It was necessary to cut an access hole to the locker air line fitting.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

I started burning the truss, tube brace, and coil perches on the axle...

I went back to the diagrams and measurements I had found and began locating my lower control arm mounts. I paid careful attention to the lower mount locations to make sure they created the proper link separation for my Savvy front three link. Once I was happy with their location, they were welded in. A set of JKS lower control arm skids was also installed.



The next step was to figure out my full width track bar. Because I was using Reid knuckles, I knew my draglink would mount on top of the knuckle. As an experiment, I purchased a Barnes JK OTK (Over the Knuckle) trackbar kit and tacked it together.

The brackets original design was to mount inboard of the JK coil spring and tie into the inside edge of the JK coil perch. This would give me the proper vertical height for my trackbar but would be much shorter in length than desired. Since I had moved the JK coil perch inboard (to work with the TJ upper coil bucket) and the spring was now directly over the axle tube (no front spring overhang), I had additional room to move the OTK trackbar mount all the way to the outside edge of the axle.

Original design...



My OTK trackbar mount location...



To handle the duty of the trackbar itself, I looked to TMR. Part of my design goal was to run a straight bar if possible. I wanted to have full adjustability when the bar was mounted under the Jeep. For this purpose, I settled on the TMR 1 ton builder kit. This kit included their lifetime heims, 1.50" x .250" wall DOM tube, and threaded bungs and hardware. These heims are nice!

 

[S/C-HD2002]

At this point, everything was fully welded except for the trackbar. Because of the front stretch and the switch to JK steering, I did not know what parts would play nice together under the Jeep. I wanted to get the axle mounted before I fully committed to my trackbar idea.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

The OEM frame brackets were chopped off the frame, as well as the OEM trackbar mount.

As per the sticky on this forum, I measured out the location for the front Savvy frame mounts. They were tacked into place per the instructions.



Once the frame mounts were tacked into place, the two lower links and single upper link were lubed and assembled. Because of my front stretch, I purchased new 7075 front links from Wide Open Design. 2.0" lowers at 22 inches and a 1.750" upper at 22.5 inches. As a side note, for those of you needing 7075 links, WOD was excellent with their customer service and turnaround time! Their links are also very nice!

The front axle was slid under the Jeep to see what sort of mess I was creating.

After taking a look at the result, I began to feel a little more optimistic about the "window" available to fit my steering and trackbar through.

I started formulating a plan for the frame side trackbar mount. At this point in the project I had been very happy with the Barnes brackets I had purchased and used. Following suite, I bought their TJ frame trackbar bracket and started fitting it up. My plan was to work backwards from the trackbar fitting at full bump. If I couldn't get it to clear the differential and frame, there was no need to start on steering parts yet. After several attempts with the Barnes bracket, I could not get it to play nice in the location I needed it to live at. My Initial impression was because I had to slide the bracket on the down slope of the frame (because of the stretch), the Barnes TJ frame bracket became too low. A second conflict I was having is the bracket placed the trackbar link directly under the frame rail. This looked like it was going to conflict with other parts as well.




Needless to say, I went back to the internet to see what other brackets were out there. In my search, I found a universal trackbar mount at Poly Performance that would still work with my 1.6" heim width. From the picture on their webpage, it looked like the link would be more outboard and I could fine tune the bracket height. Still wanting to clear a front Antirock swaybar, I knew my mount could not get outboard very far, but I wanted it further than the Barnes mount. Parameters like heim mounting width and Antirock clearance immediately eliminated some other manufactures frame mounts.

A couple of clicks later, the Poly mount was on its way to me.

 

[oldjeepman]

All I can say is WOW.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

All I can say is WOW.

It was definitely a snowball project

 

[S/C-HD2002]

Once the trackbar mount was in my hands, I made a couple of modifications to it for final fitment and placement. Steering parts were my next concern to get fitted. I knew there would be close tolerances between all these parts, especially with the 5.5" of up travel I wanted to maintain. I was going to use a TJ/LJ PSC ram assist box, Rare Parts steering pieces, Reid knuckles, and a RockJock TJ/JK pitman arm.

The Reid knuckles were fitted and the HD Rare Parts JK steering parts bolted on. The tierod pieces consisted of their JK taper cartridges and 1.5" offset forgings. The draglink was their JK draglink forgings and JK taper cartridges. I ordered a 1.75" diameter 7075 tierod (38.125") and drag link (17.5") from Wide Open Designs.

After turning the steering lock to lock, it became apparent I would need the 2.0" offset tierod forgings. These were ordered and eventually installed. The 2.0" offset pieces allowed for ample clearance of the tierod/differential cover at full lock and additional clearance for my PSC ram. The draglink clearance on the axle side trackbar mount was perfect the entire time.

The final track bar length determined, the outer portion of the mount was tacked onto the frame and the axle cycled to check clearance at full bump and with the axle compressed and extended.



The steering pieces and the trackbar appeared to live well with each other.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

Apparently I did not take in progress trackbar pictures on the frame side. These pictures are after the build was completed but shows its final location. One large change I made to it was to redesign the inside sandwich plate portion of the mount with a much larger surface area one. While probably unnecessary, I did not want my track bar ripping off the frame with the addition (or subtraction ) of a three link.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

The front frame side shock mounts were cut off around the same time and I began figuring out the Poly Performance mounts and their location. A bunch of cycling and moving of the upper mounts was end result. I also went through several iterations of lower mounts to get their location where I wanted/needed them to live.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

The first set of lower mounts I fabbed up...



I was going to trim them to fit under the lower coil perch and box them in. It became apparent once the mount moved closer to the perch, the shock hardware would be difficult to access. They ultimately went in the scrap pile.

My second and final attempt was to modify the Poly lowers to fit my needs. They were extended to clear the coil perches and coped around the axle tubes.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

The mounts were tacked onto the axle. The suspension was cycled again.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

I stumbled into a great deal on a NIB set of 983-02-170 Fox 2.0 bumps, I was this far, what the hell. I figured the addition of hydraulic bumps allowed me to fine tune my up travel limits and full bump.

I cut the factory bump center post with a hole saw that would fit the OD of the new threaded DOM center post. I also reinforced the frame side coil bucket with a piece of 3/16" plate to increase its rigidity. This piece of plate was eventually full welded to the coil bucket.

 

[S/C-HD2002]

After fitting the new bumps and cycling the suspension, I determined that I would extend the lower bump pad (on the axle) higher so the FOX bump stop would extend less from the DOM center post. This would ultimately help the potential of the coil spring hitting the Fox bump when the axle was at full droop.



After experimenting with several lower bump pad heights, I purchased a JK 2" aluminum extension from Streetrays.