A diff cover like you have in the rear would cut down on this. Definitely not a cheap option though.
Tennessee Red
- Thread starter gasiorv
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A diff cover like you have in the rear would cut down on this. Definitely not a cheap option though.
I'm not thrilled with my Barnett cover either. I tried three times to seal mine with silicone and ended up using a lube locker. The 7 o'clock bolt seeped enough to leave a quarter sized or more drip depending on how long it sat. It was not surfaced very well and a little valley from the bolt hole to the inside of the sump caused the drip. That same 7 o'clock bolt had to go in first because the opening for the bolt isn't centered. The one thing I really like is the ramp that helps slide over the hump on washed out trails or rocks.
gasiorv
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After my fuel pump issue at Golden Mountain a few weeks ago, I figured it was time to relocate my gas tank from underneath up to the bed. I have been keeping it under just so I can put the rear seat in when my youngest son would go with us; however, he is now grown, working full time, and has his own jeep so I don't think he will be riding in the back anymore.
I had a GenRight 23 gallon tank mounted underneath and I wanted to just put that in the bed, I also wanted to maintain the ability to fill from a gas pump and the ability to fill with the top on didn't matter to me because I can't get a top on this thing anymore.
So I "massaged" the bed area to allow for the install of the tank. Fabbed up some brackets, and Wala.
I then made some new additional brackets to install tools, welder, air tank, and the Hi Lift.
I had a GenRight 23 gallon tank mounted underneath and I wanted to just put that in the bed, I also wanted to maintain the ability to fill from a gas pump and the ability to fill with the top on didn't matter to me because I can't get a top on this thing anymore.
So I "massaged" the bed area to allow for the install of the tank. Fabbed up some brackets, and Wala.
I then made some new additional brackets to install tools, welder, air tank, and the Hi Lift.
gasiorv
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The weekend after I relocated the fuel tank to the bed area, we did a day trip to Hawk Pride. My buddy Beeker took his 3 yo son and that kid had a blast!! We were all worried about how he would do and that kid wheeled from 10am to 7:30pm and the only time he wasn't smiling was when he was napping.
gasiorv
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Above Post #376 is the aftermath of Hawk Pride with my Ball Joint and my front inner shaft. I don't think that was all from the one trip to Hawk Pride, it was just that I found it after Hawk Pride since I started my axle swap.
I picked up a brand new Currie HP44 from a guy in florida back in August and I figured it was time to do the install.
Sneak Peek at how that is going:
I picked up a brand new Currie HP44 from a guy in florida back in August and I figured it was time to do the install.
Sneak Peek at how that is going:
After my fuel pump issue at Golden Mountain a few weeks ago, I figured it was time to relocate my gas tank from underneath up to the bed. I have been keeping it under just so I can put the rear seat in when my youngest son would go with us; however, he is now grown, working full time, and has his own jeep so I don't think he will be riding in the back anymore.
I had a GenRight 23 gallon tank mounted underneath and I wanted to just put that in the bed, I also wanted to maintain the ability to fill from a gas pump and the ability to fill with the top on didn't matter to me because I can't get a top on this thing anymore.
So I "massaged" the bed area to allow for the install of the tank. Fabbed up some brackets, and Wala.
View attachment 578854
I then made some new additional brackets to install tools, welder, air tank, and the Hi Lift.
View attachment 578857
View attachment 578859
View attachment 578855
View attachment 578856
View attachment 578858
That's cool, Vic. Nice work.
gasiorv
I'm a new world samurai, and a redneck nonetheless
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This sums up my last few weekends 
Grind and bevel
Pull out the square and see if it's level
Turn on the gas and set the voltage and speed
Now look for my gloves and helmet, that is what I need
There is a ball on the end of the wire and looking for my pliers is something I do tire.
Find that good position and a quick test to see if my wrist will twist.
Pull the trigger and the wire bounces off to my dismay for I forgot the ground and I don't know where it may lay.
Now the ground is attached, I am braced, I pull the trigger and a nice sizzle is heard.
I watch the puddle and adjust as needed.
Bead is run, the part is done, now is the time to prep for paint which is no fun.
Grind and bevel
Pull out the square and see if it's level
Turn on the gas and set the voltage and speed
Now look for my gloves and helmet, that is what I need
There is a ball on the end of the wire and looking for my pliers is something I do tire.
Find that good position and a quick test to see if my wrist will twist.
Pull the trigger and the wire bounces off to my dismay for I forgot the ground and I don't know where it may lay.
Now the ground is attached, I am braced, I pull the trigger and a nice sizzle is heard.
I watch the puddle and adjust as needed.
Bead is run, the part is done, now is the time to prep for paint which is no fun.
This sums up my last few weekends
Grind and bevel
Pull out the square and see if it's level
Turn on the gas and set the voltage and speed
Now look for my gloves and helmet, that is what I need
There is a ball on the end of the wire and looking for my pliers is something I do tire.
Find that good position and a quick test to see if my wrist will twist.
Pull the trigger and the wire bounces off to my dismay for I forgot the ground and I don't know where it may lay.
Now the ground is attached, I am braced, I pull the trigger and a nice sizzle is heard.
I watch the puddle and adjust as needed.
Bead is run, the part is done, now is the time to prep for paint which is no fun.
Although we 'preciate all your rhymin' yappin'
If there are no pics then it didn't happin'
gasiorv
I'm a new world samurai, and a redneck nonetheless
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gasiorv
I'm a new world samurai, and a redneck nonetheless
Original poster
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
gasiorv
I'm a new world samurai, and a redneck nonetheless
Original poster
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I am still waiting for a few parts to arrive (drag link and drive shaft). I was planning on reusing my old drag link but it kind of sheared off with a bit of an explosion when I put it in the press to straighten it last weekend. It has been bent and straightened a few times before but this time it snapped right at the threads.
Currie HP44, TJ width. I bought it from a guy who never installed it, it never had oil in it. It has 5.13 gears which is what I was looking for and it has an ARB locker. It came with Carbon axle shafts which I removed and replaced with RCVs out of my LP44 being removed. With the install of the new axle I also wanted to do a small stretch (3") and to redo the geometry to better allow for the wheels to climb up over ledges in lieu of being jambed back and down. I had a few criteria I wanted to try and meet mostly due to finances, but also since someone told me it couldn't be done. My criteria is that I wanted to do the stretch while still using the currie currectlync steering, the currie track bar, and my hydro assist setup that I currently had, and that I wanted to make as much stuff that I already had work I lieu of buying. I also had to use as much scrap metal that I had laying around to fab in lieu of buying parts. I still ended up spending about $1500 in parts to do the stretch, geometry correction, and axle install. AND I currently don't know if I am done since I haven't gave it a test drive yet due to still waiting on parts.
Anyway, here are some pics. I am really happy with the frame side track bar mount that I made, I had to do a little bending of the antirock arm but it clears.
In order to reuse the currie track bar I had to cut it and rotate the frame side joint.
With the geometry correction I went 3 link and I cut off the factory upper mount and installed a 1/2" thk truss with a 2-5/8 wide mount to take a JJ.
I modified some purchased 3 link brackets to better suit the geometry I was shooting for (see the frankenmount in the previous post)
I did remove the ball joints and installed American Iron BJE.
More to come, that is all the pics that I have right now. Hopefully my drag link arrives this week and my drive shaft is showing arriving Monday. Then I can get it in on the ground, tighten up everything, and give it a spin. I do need to also modify my engine skid bracket, but was waiting to install the driveshaft before dragging the skids back in and under.
Currie HP44, TJ width. I bought it from a guy who never installed it, it never had oil in it. It has 5.13 gears which is what I was looking for and it has an ARB locker. It came with Carbon axle shafts which I removed and replaced with RCVs out of my LP44 being removed. With the install of the new axle I also wanted to do a small stretch (3") and to redo the geometry to better allow for the wheels to climb up over ledges in lieu of being jambed back and down. I had a few criteria I wanted to try and meet mostly due to finances, but also since someone told me it couldn't be done. My criteria is that I wanted to do the stretch while still using the currie currectlync steering, the currie track bar, and my hydro assist setup that I currently had, and that I wanted to make as much stuff that I already had work I lieu of buying. I also had to use as much scrap metal that I had laying around to fab in lieu of buying parts. I still ended up spending about $1500 in parts to do the stretch, geometry correction, and axle install. AND I currently don't know if I am done since I haven't gave it a test drive yet due to still waiting on parts.
Anyway, here are some pics. I am really happy with the frame side track bar mount that I made, I had to do a little bending of the antirock arm but it clears.
In order to reuse the currie track bar I had to cut it and rotate the frame side joint.
With the geometry correction I went 3 link and I cut off the factory upper mount and installed a 1/2" thk truss with a 2-5/8 wide mount to take a JJ.
I modified some purchased 3 link brackets to better suit the geometry I was shooting for (see the frankenmount in the previous post)
I did remove the ball joints and installed American Iron BJE.
More to come, that is all the pics that I have right now. Hopefully my drag link arrives this week and my drive shaft is showing arriving Monday. Then I can get it in on the ground, tighten up everything, and give it a spin. I do need to also modify my engine skid bracket, but was waiting to install the driveshaft before dragging the skids back in and under.
Last edited:
gasiorv
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I did have a few more pics, here is the TNT steering box rotation installed. Notice how my bumper is bent on the ends due to hitting rocks.
With the bend in the bumper the antirock arm wouldn't fit, so I cut out the bent part and reinforced the ends.
Again, just trying to use what I had laying around.
With the bend in the bumper the antirock arm wouldn't fit, so I cut out the bent part and reinforced the ends.
Again, just trying to use what I had laying around.
Just now finding your build thread. I like what I'm seeing. You will really like the front stretch on steep climbs. I did a very similar frame side front upper control arm bracket on my build. It's held up great for me so far. Keep up the great work!
I can't wait to get a chance to really try out my front stretch. Don't know if I did too much all at once to really know but we'll see.
gasiorv
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I don't like my jeep to be on jack stands and not ready to wheel for too long at a time. So, I am going to wheel it with just the front stretch for a few months and ensure I have the front all worked out, then I will look at the rear stretch. I think I can get 4-5" with minimal cost. Still will be a lot of work, but I think I can maintain most suspension components. That will get me to the 100-101" that I am shooting for, still want to be small and nimble for the creek trails, ravines, and boulder fields, that I like the best.
gasiorv
I'm a new world samurai, and a redneck nonetheless
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Got it on it's on weight today and got everything tightened up. When I cycled it, I needed to add 1.5" bump stop to keep the tie rod from getting into the drag link when drivers wheel was at full stuff. Also needed the 1.5" bump stop to keep the tire out of the antirock arm when drivers wheel was at full stuff and turned hard passenger. Since I won't have time to do a shakedown run before heading to Windrock next month for a big weekend of wheeling I decided to go ahead and add 3" of bump stop to account for any oversight. I will reevaluate that after Windrock in Jan.
I then went to give it a spin around the block to see how it felt and something felt weird right off the bat, but it felt weird from the rear not the front, so I turned around and headed back to find my rear shock mount broke.
And yes, I checked the other side and it is also cracked.
I then went to give it a spin around the block to see how it felt and something felt weird right off the bat, but it felt weird from the rear not the front, so I turned around and headed back to find my rear shock mount broke.
And yes, I checked the other side and it is also cracked.
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